383 Build Follow Along
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
383 Build Follow Along
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...-my-383-a.html
IM buiding s sleper 38 with a 4 bolt 512 block wit the breather hole. It will allow a factory 340/327 appearance, Machined .40 over, 3.75" crank, 6" rods. AFR 195cc Eliminator heads. Have two optional builds a) Stock-a-Look-a-like: This built uses the external fatory 340 parts to disguide the extra stroker cubes, Factory alum intake carb and rams horn manifolds.
Build Uses Z28intake, AFR heads, stock manifolds.
My goal is to have 500 at the crank...so about 430-450 at the wheels.
Tuned to bring that power in smooth and high in the band to reduce wheelspin. Cruising runs between 1500 and 2200 on the highway. A single downshift puts the driver seeking the power back in at 3200 +
IM buiding s sleper 38 with a 4 bolt 512 block wit the breather hole. It will allow a factory 340/327 appearance, Machined .40 over, 3.75" crank, 6" rods. AFR 195cc Eliminator heads. Have two optional builds a) Stock-a-Look-a-like: This built uses the external fatory 340 parts to disguide the extra stroker cubes, Factory alum intake carb and rams horn manifolds.
Build Uses Z28intake, AFR heads, stock manifolds.
My goal is to have 500 at the crank...so about 430-450 at the wheels.
Tuned to bring that power in smooth and high in the band to reduce wheelspin. Cruising runs between 1500 and 2200 on the highway. A single downshift puts the driver seeking the power back in at 3200 +
Last edited by DucatiDon; 01-23-2018 at 04:31 PM.
#2
Team Owner
I never recommend a 383 anymore. The cost is the same to do a 3.875 stroker @ 396 ci. Everybody has a 383. TQ is a direct function of CI. I have a hot rodded 383 SR that is my spare motor and it is my Vette right now. I jumped up to a 427 Motown
If you look at the port sizes of an AFR 210 head. It requires a single plane and 1 3/4 if not a 1 7/8th headers.
Hp in a 396 can be achieved at a lower rpm than a 383 with all other parts being the same. I've built about 4 SR cammed 396's.
If you look at the port sizes of an AFR 210 head. It requires a single plane and 1 3/4 if not a 1 7/8th headers.
Hp in a 396 can be achieved at a lower rpm than a 383 with all other parts being the same. I've built about 4 SR cammed 396's.
#3
Team Owner
Oh I see that you were ordering parts in April and trying to determine DCR.
My 10.7 or so runs fine on our local 91 super unleaded. To smooth the motor out I had a 236/242 112 cam ground 4 degrees retarded. 830 cfm Demon carb, 7530 Weiand single plane with 1/2 inch wood four hole thermal spacer. AFR 210 heads Manley race flow valves with mid .600 lift. I also have the tight lash setup with .010 I and .012 E.
I have Hooker S/C headers and I had to grind them out to port match to AFR exhaust ports
My 10.7 or so runs fine on our local 91 super unleaded. To smooth the motor out I had a 236/242 112 cam ground 4 degrees retarded. 830 cfm Demon carb, 7530 Weiand single plane with 1/2 inch wood four hole thermal spacer. AFR 210 heads Manley race flow valves with mid .600 lift. I also have the tight lash setup with .010 I and .012 E.
I have Hooker S/C headers and I had to grind them out to port match to AFR exhaust ports
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I guess numbers wise, I'd like to see 500 at the crank.....probably be happy with 425...lol
What I don't want is a powerband that comes on too low rpm or too quick to be drive able. Everyday manners below 3000. Vicious over 3k.
What I don't want is a powerband that comes on too low rpm or too quick to be drive able. Everyday manners below 3000. Vicious over 3k.
#6
Safety Car
Id figure that's all easily achievable. What gears and transmission?
#11
Safety Car
#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Ok...finally back from the Machinist. Ugh. Daves Performance Machine in Fresno did a great job..it just took like three months.
Bore .040, Bore Hone, align hone, decked, new cam bearings, balanced rotator assembly, checked clearances. I get to assemble it.
Manley forged crank. Forged H beam 6" rods. Forged Icon pistons.
Now to clean it up, paint it and start assembling the bottom end.
Bore .040, Bore Hone, align hone, decked, new cam bearings, balanced rotator assembly, checked clearances. I get to assemble it.
Manley forged crank. Forged H beam 6" rods. Forged Icon pistons.
Now to clean it up, paint it and start assembling the bottom end.
#13
Safety Car
Ok...finally back from the Machinist. Ugh. Daves Performance Machine in Fresno did a great job..it just took like three months.
Bore .040, Bore Hone, align hone, decked, new cam bearings, balanced rotator assembly, checked clearances. I get to assemble it.
Manley forged crank. Forged H beam 6" rods. Forged Icon pistons.
Now to clean it up, paint it and start assembling the bottom end.
Bore .040, Bore Hone, align hone, decked, new cam bearings, balanced rotator assembly, checked clearances. I get to assemble it.
Manley forged crank. Forged H beam 6" rods. Forged Icon pistons.
Now to clean it up, paint it and start assembling the bottom end.
#14
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
$$$$
Just short block I am into it $3600. That includes shipping the 512 block across the country and Cali Tax on the parts and labor.
By the time I get the Roller cam $800 and heads $1500 on it...Ill be into it $6k.
Just short block I am into it $3600. That includes shipping the 512 block across the country and Cali Tax on the parts and labor.
By the time I get the Roller cam $800 and heads $1500 on it...Ill be into it $6k.
#15
Safety Car
I ended up with $10k into my 400" the way it set's, but that was over building the bottom end.
#16
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I should be well under $8k all said and done including dyno tuning. That rivals most crate motors, but I get a special block and the satisfaction of building it myself.
If you used a generic 350 block in good condition (mine was a rust bucket) you could save less than a grand or so.
If you used a generic 350 block in good condition (mine was a rust bucket) you could save less than a grand or so.
#17
Safety Car
I should be well under $8k all said and done including dyno tuning. That rivals most crate motors, but I get a special block and the satisfaction of building it myself.
If you used a generic 350 block in good condition (mine was a rust bucket) you could save less than a grand or so.
If you used a generic 350 block in good condition (mine was a rust bucket) you could save less than a grand or so.
What are you running for a camshaft?
Last edited by bluedawg; 07-21-2014 at 06:20 PM.
#18
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I havent got to cam and heads yet, but I am probably going with a Howards HR CL111815-10 237/245 .56/.56 on a 110. And Im second guessing myself back to AFR 195s....since im likely to choke it out anyway....(Which isnt a bad thing for this car...)
#19
Safety Car
You could go competition ported on the heads if you think that going 210's is to big, I went with the standard 195's on my 400" runs great, but sometimes I wish I'd gone 210's and a solid roller. I didn't go with the competition ported because they only come in angle plug. If you havn't bought the heads yet You could contact Tony Mamo with afr and check to see what he'd charge to port the heads and intake together.
#20
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
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St. Jude Donor '05
210s arent too big actually a good choice
Do a drop base air cleaner wtih the decal do the headers they are pretty commonplace on most old cars anyway
You can get sneaky mill the logo off and paint them orange if you want (heads)
On the other hand sure Tony can do your intake and heads up nice for you. If it wereme Id use a Holley 300-36 , maybe an rpm or similar grind the letters off and paint that too.
Do a drop base air cleaner wtih the decal do the headers they are pretty commonplace on most old cars anyway
You can get sneaky mill the logo off and paint them orange if you want (heads)
On the other hand sure Tony can do your intake and heads up nice for you. If it wereme Id use a Holley 300-36 , maybe an rpm or similar grind the letters off and paint that too.