My new project has a mess for the motor wiring. It starts with the bubba special. I've seen some spliced crap in my day but this was just cut and left to die with nothing spliced in.



So I order the motor wiring harness. Most of the accessories on the fire wall are in a box (wiper motor and such) that came with the car. I've removed the AC unit for now also. I've ordered the NCRs book, Lectric limited, AIM and Haynes. Wiring to the starter was easy enough. 12 PPL to S, 2 blk and 12 R with fusible link to center post, black to trans housing for ground and 20 yellow to R. going good so far.



Then I run into this.



OK, I read for a week and google and get a wealth ok knowledge from you guys - big thanks. I figure out that the 20 Yellow from solenoid R should go to coil positive along with 20 B P that is XLPE resistance - do not cut. It is attached to the 20 yellow that I assume comes from the solenoid R (did not un tape the harness) Also figure out that 12 R from fusible link goes to horn relay and run it correctly. However, I no longer have the original coil and points distributor.



So it is my understanding that the 20 B P (resistance wire) to the fire wall box should not go to the distributor. I read many threads about removing the 20 B P and replacing with 12ga. I am going to replace the motor (307 ci that was in the car) and don't want to remove anything from that harness block on the firewall ( I'd probably destroy a $209 harness in the process). So I read that I can run a 12 ga from the dash fuse box from the Batt. or Acc. pin to the distributor and remove the 20 B P and tape it off. So my question is where does the 12 ga from the dash fuse box go on the distributor.



I assume the red on the right is positive and the yellow on the left is negative with the black in the middle ground. I am assuming that the 20 yellow from solenoid R goes to positive (red wire on distributor cap) along with the 12ga from the dash. If I am reading this correctly, then the negative terminal from the distributor cap will ground to the motor intake manifold. But that leaves me with the black ground?? I have looked for wiring instructions on HEI on line with no success. I'm not worried about the tach at this point, I just want to get the car started. Any direction would be greatly appreciated.

 

When you convert to HEI you only need one power wire to run it…and the other side is for your tach. Just find somewhere that gives you constant power with the key in the start and run positions….that is it. You do not need any wires from the starter….or anywhere else for that matter. There is no coil to hook up with HEI it is already done inside the cap.
Hope this helps and clears up any confusion.

 

The connector from the pickup is what connects it all together…..plug and play easy and simple.

 

one more thing…just to clear everything up…..in case it is still confusing..make sure it is 12 volts constant power….do not mistake the resister wire that used to go to the coil as your power source unless someone has already taken the resister out of the line.

 

Thanks for the fast reply James. I was thinking about it on the way to work today and remembered another post somewhere that the yellow (from solenoid) was not needed with HEI and your post brings ot all together now. It is my understanding that the Batt. Acc. or Ign. terminal at the dash can be used as a constant. Again, I see where some replace the resister wire from the fire wall with a 12 ga wire to the distributor, but I dont want to start hacking up a brand new wiring harness. I'll just have to check that power is constantly supplied from the dash pin I will use. Thanks again.

 

Use the terminal in the fuse box marked IGN-it has power in start and run.
The BATT terminal is on all the time.
The ACC terminal does not get power in start.

Yes, with HEI you do not use the yellow.

 

Thanks for the heads up Peterbuilt. I am getting a whole new respect for the complexity of the electrical system in this car. I replaced all the fuses today as I was not getting any power to the purple wire on solenoid. Traced it back to the firewall and checked with a light tester and nothing. I dropped the steering column and checked the purple at the ignition switch and had power. I went ahead and replaced the switch just to be safe.



All bolted back up and still no power at the starter. So I trace from the ignition switch and find this clip. It has power on one terminal when key is turned to the start position. I have no idea what it connects to as I cannot find anything close by with purple - white stripe.



So I sit and scratch my head for a while. Figured I would just hard wire it directly but then check the rest of the dash wiring harness that is all disconnected as I was cleaning up the floor pans - a few before and after pics.





So I hooked the wiring harness back to the shifter on the floor hump and bingo!! Power to the starter.



Anyone know what the 12 purple connector near the fuse box connects to?? I can only assume it's there for a 4 speed car as it would be near the clutch pedal.

 

Well done! You figured out that the neutral safety switch has to be connected for the starter to work.
Did you make sure the nss switch is adjusted so it only works in P or N?
The nss switch also turns on the back up lights.

Was this car once a stick shift and it's a 72 right?
What happened to the 76?

 

It's a 1972, and as far as I can tell original auto. As far as for the 76. After I put pen to paper and figured about 30K in parts to have a 10k car, I parted some of it out. There was little to salvage off of it. And I mean every part had an issue to address. Took it down to the bare frame and gas lines were rusted through. Had to cut the trailing arms out. Breaking about every other bolt on the frame from rust in the removal process. Would have had to cut the fiberglass door jambs out to get to the area needed to replace the pans. Bottom of doors rusted through. Nothing to salvage in the interior. Radiator shot as well as the rad. support. It never stopped. Even the wheels were too far gone to do anything with. Needless to say, I crawled over and under this one in the pouring down rain to look it over. But even now I'm finding little things like pin rust holes in the top of the gas tank. Pretty rock solid overall however and a steel bumper car. Will eventually do a frame off on this one, but I am just want to enjoy it for a while.

Good start on this one


The C5 needs company


My father (passed a few years ago) with my brothers C1. Letting the professionals restore this one.