the MSD E-Curve is a 3 wire hookup with external coil

Neal

 

My 454 car idles with about 12" so it's not as radical as yours (only 350 rwhp), but it's running 21*, vacuum hooked up, and 17* initial. 10.2 compression with 188 open chamber heads and never any detonation. Idles fine. Best thing I ever did, however, was dyno it to get basic A/F and jet from that. Carb is a 770 SA with 72s in front and 77s in rear, as I recall.

 

How about a "real" 950 from 1968?

 

I looked at it and downloaded the installation PDF. Looks interesting, the example they give, I couldn't figure out how to make the numbers add up using the tables they provide. Also seems to limit distributor advance selection to 4 total advances, 10, 15, 20 and 25 degrees. They could have added a little more detail and maybe a couple more examples. I wonder if one can set the dials to anywhere between the numbers for infinite selections between 0-25* for the "Electronic Centrifugal Advance"?

 

I believe you can program your own custom advance curve so you don't need their canned maps. Mallory also sells a similar dist'r. I like the Mallory one myself.

 

From what I read there's like 27 curves to choose from, custom would be nice.

 

Hmmmm....interesting. I see four families of advance curves not counting lock out or vacuum. 1 each for each of the four advances I list above. For each one of the 4 total advances there are 4 different rpm values the advance will all be in by. That is 12 different possibilities but still only 4 mechanical advances to chose from. I cant make the numbers add up in their example so I obviously am missing something.

 

The E-curve is a POS. 100 possible choices and maybe 6 are usable. It was not made well and they have not fixed it to my knowledge.


Example on mine the steps are 5 degree increments. They need to be finer like 2 degree in the common range. Not 0 -50 degree mechanical advance in 5 degree changes. It is the same with the vacuum advance.........

 

Thats your opinion and I'm OK with it, but do explain. If you don't like it due to what you call only 6 possible usable curve choices then it just does not fit your needs. Sounds like you need an adjustable ignition box that is PC programmable. Trust me if MSD felt that it only needed 6 possible curves to address every possible scenario then that is all it would have.

There is a limit to what it can do but for the price its not a bad deal. The next step in adjust ability is the programmable box with good software but I really don't see where the street driven car with a mild SB or BB needs the adjustable box.

The E-Curve is a great dissy for what it is, it includes a rev limiter, 3 wire hookup and a multitude of advance curves to tryout simply by removing the cap and turning a couple dials. If you are running a separate ignition box, you don't have to with the e-curve.

An added feature of running the E-curve is if the ignition box fails you can bypass the box and the car will run with just the dissy.

The instructions for the E-curve are lacking, you need to set the the dissy at the total advance you want including vacuum then work backwards. If you want your total to be 36* without vacuum then set the dissy at 36* and decide what initial you want, say you want 16* initial so you would use the 20* chart. The dissy will take out 20* at start up and add it back in based on the curve you select.

Neal

 

I've had the e-curve for 4 years or so and i think that the crane adjustable dizzy is a better product

 

I had nothing but problems with Power valves running a 6-71 blower on a stroked 350. Sold the standard Holley's and bought 2 external controlled power valves 600 duel feed d-pumper Holley's carbs drilled a line in at the manifold pop off valves to get the vacuum to control them. Works great!

 

you did not respond to this, but too early timing beats the crud out of your main and rod barrings from over pressure

Even if you don't have noticeable ping/knock. I've rebuild a few hot rod motors that had all the coating gone down to the copper. Those motors were working against them selves even with higher octane

 

I've seen blown applications both ways.

 

Have a look at this system then, its not made in the good old USA but seems to fit your requirements -
http://www.aldonamethyst.co.uk/

 

This is very interesting. I will look into this further. Seems like exactly what I am looking for. Thanks.

 

Did you try plugging the power valves?

 

No, decided to pull engine and rebuild it. Likely going to go to newer proper sized carb for my new combination.

 

How many miles did you have on it?

 

Not many. Maybe 10,000 at the most. I built it about 8 years ago but knowledge and technology has grown regarding large displacement small blocks. I have the block and rotating assembly at engine shop for a complete evaluation. Looking to go from a 427 to a 434. Don't ask why,....just woke up one day with a hair across my a$$ to do it and pulled the engine. Going to be a high dollar build. Seeing what Paul had accomplished with his 427 build has inspired me to re-discover my hobby. Due to an unexpected layoff, I put my life on hold for the last 8 years to re-establish myself into a new career. I am ready to blow the dust off my tools and start having some fun again and thought this would be a great way to jump start it.

 

I have been using the 6AL2 programable with my GM ZZ383. I love the idea about any curve you want. I have changed my curves while driving. The MSD programables work in reverse, they dont advance the timing but retard from a fixed point, so you need a locked out dist. I start with 42 total, remove 10 from the MAP sensor and additional 20 from the run curve and ramp up to 0 retard by 2900. So I get inital timing about 12 under load (22 at idle no load from MAP Sensor ) WOT 12 at 1100 and ramp up to 32 at 2900. You can make any curve you want but only a max of 25 degree retard. You also may need an adjustable rotor to deal with rotor phasing problems.