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My son is over in the US at the moment and is going to pick me up some bolts for my stainless headers and for an intake swap.
For the headers I was looking at either ARP 400-1201 or 400-1101, the only difference I can see is the head type, 12 point and hex. Is that the only difference? I dont think I need the drilled ones.
When looking for intake bolts, I want black and came up with 3 ARP selections but am confused as to which set to buy, 2 are 12 point and one is hex. Any ideas what the difference between the 12 point sets are? 134-2102, 134-2101 and 134-2001. The 2102 set is about $10 more expensive but looking at the summit site, it doesnt really explain the difference.
THe only difference I see is stainless steel vs Chromemoly. For the intake I prefer 12pt so they are easier to get a wrench on the center ones. Same for Exhaust header bolts too.
Jotto - tread carefully here with header bolts. With my bb and alloy Brodix heads the length of of the header bolts as sold by ARP (3/4") was insufficient. They were marginal with Hedman headers allowing barely 3/8" inch thread into the head. Changing to Hooker headers with a thicker flange reduced that to 1/4" - ripe for stripping out threads. Real Steel sell loose 12 point stainless ARP bolts that are slightly longer that do the job (1 1/4" I think) And yes, use 12 point as they are easier to tighten up.
BTW for my bb I actually bought an additional stainless 12 point intake bolt set and used them for the headers as they are longer (1 1/4" I seem to recall) - don't know if same thing applies with small block though! Rgds., Ross
Cheers Ross, will check the header flange thickness as I have OBX headers and it looks fairly thick. Time I add a washer and a gasket....
Originally Posted by roscobbc
Jotto - tread carefully here with header bolts. With my bb and alloy Brodix heads the length of of the header bolts as sold by ARP (3/4") was insufficient. They were marginal with Hedman headers allowing barely 3/8" inch thread into the head. Changing to Hooker headers with a thicker flange reduced that to 1/4" - ripe for stripping out threads. Real Steel sell loose 12 point stainless ARP bolts that are slightly longer that do the job (1 1/4" I think) And yes, use 12 point as they are easier to tighten up.
BTW for my bb I actually bought an additional stainless 12 point intake bolt set and used them for the headers as they are longer (1 1/4" I seem to recall) - don't know if same thing applies with small block though! Rgds., Ross
I used socket head type bolts. The interference between the header and the bolt head is eliminated. In the areas where the header pipe bends sharply toward the bolt, I cut off a 1/2" piece of allen wrench, inserted it into the bolt and then used an end wrench on that to tighten.