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I am starting to think about working on the interior and getting my Carlisle shopping list ready. I will be replacing the carpet and would like your thoughts on the heat barrier kits offered to go under the carpet - "ceramic cloth with foil backing" ??
Thanks
Gil
IMO, better off with a cheap foil backed roll of hot water heater wrapping cut so size, and it's only 1/2 inch thick fiberglass, will compress easily...
put glass to glass, and foil to rug....works well...
I got a roll of aluminum foil roof insulation 1/4" thick at Home Depot. I didn'ruse it yet but gave it to my buddy who used it in his 62. He said it made a big difference. Cost about $45 enough for 2-3 C3's.
Gary
It was fine, but if I ever do that job again, I'll just buy a roll of the insulation material and fit it myself.
The kits are pretty pricey compared to the bulk material and, even though they may not have needed insulation, the kit left some bare spots that I would have liked covered.
I used JC Whitney roll stock of heat/sound barrier and it made a big difference. Not cheap and I went all out insulating every avail. surface while I had interior out. Some areas two layers used like trans. tunnel.
Good luck.
IMO, better off with a cheap foil backed roll of hot water heater wrapping cut so size, and it's only 1/2 inch thick fiberglass, will compress easily...
put glass to glass, and foil to rug....works well...
GENE
I thought the foil was to reflect heat back to where it came from? Heat comes from underneath the car, so shouldn't the foil be towards the floor?
I used the pre-cut mail-order kit. It was the foil-backed ceramic cloth, but I forget whether the aluminum goes up or down, down I think...
There were alot of gaps, so I cut some additional insulation material I had lying around and filled in everything, including under the seats, and heavy over the trans tunnel. Then I taped everyseam with aluminum furnace tape. Really helped cut the heat and noise level. I liked the kit because it saved some time, but you could do a really good job without it as well. Also, don't use the foil with air bubbles under your feet, the bubbles will break down and there went your insulation with it...
Jeff
I am getting ready to do this on my vette after I get the body on seeing how it is gutted now. I will have to go and look at some of the suggestionngiven and check the prices.. I do know from past post that the heat barrier kits are not the way to go.
Neil in Tenn
I'll DEFINITELY be doing this soon. Had my car three weeks and I can barely stand to drive it once it's up to operating temp. I was going to buy a kit but after reading this I think I'm heading to Home Depot!!
I used aluminum tape on the bottom of my car to reflect/reduce the radiant heat. I really wish that I had some solid "before and after" interior temperature data to share but I don't. I can only say that I definitely believe that it helped.
My floor board temperatures aren't bad now but I will also install additional insulation when I replace the carpet.
I used a product from Jegs/Summit called the Super Insulator. Go to my website for the whole story at http://users.snip.net/~vettfixr/page14.htm
or take a look at the following pictures
The only problem I had was dealing with the thickness of the insulation. It makes getting the consoles back in and aligned a little tight but it's doable. Good luck.
Glad you brought this topic up. Has anyone used the combination heat barrier and sound deadner kit. This is the kit that has rubber sound deadner and the heat barrier insulation combined as one unit. It is bought in pieces just as the heat barrier insulation is in kits from Ecklers, Mid America, etc?
Bill
Probably the easiest way to reduce the heat is to wrap your headers with the heat wrap tape that you can get from Ecklers etc, its also good for wrapping around the pipes near your f'glass rear spring (if fitted) to stop the heat de3laminating it. Mind you if you have those fancy chrome headers you probably dont want to do that, but all that insulation cuts down space in hte footwells. :cheers: