When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Should there be a noticeable difference in drag, ability to spin the fan by hand, between when the engine is hot and cold? I noted some resistance when the car had been sitting over night though no noticeable change in resistance after running for a few hours.
I don't want to replace the clutch unnecessarily.
I just replaced the radiator with a DeWitts, made some improvement but could be better.
Should there be a noticeable difference in drag, ability to spin the fan by hand, between when the engine is hot and cold? I noted some resistance when the car had been sitting over night though no noticeable change in resistance after running for a few hours.
I don't want to replace the clutch unnecessarily.
I just replaced the radiator with a DeWitts, made some improvement but could be better.
This is for a 70 LS5.
It should be noticeably harder to spin unless it's a cool day but even then it should be noticeable.
I haven't tried letting it idle for a long period.
It appears to be running hotter than the thermostat (180), tends to run around 200ish. I wouldn't say it's overheating, just seems to run hotter than expected.
The temps improved after installing the DeWitts radiator but did not drop dramatically as some have seen. I can drive on the highway now without seeing the temps slowly creeping up.
I'm slowly repairing items, replaced all seals around the radiator and shroud. I need to install a new air dam/spoiler, missing... Also need to install the seal between the radiator support and hood.
After driving the car, and getting the engine up to operating temperature, watch as the engine is turned off, and see how much the fan turns after the engine is turned off. If the fan stops quickly, maybe 2 or 3 rotations or less, then I would say the clutch is fine. If the fan rotates more than 5 or so rotations, then I might consider a new clutch.
I haven't tried letting it idle for a long period.
It appears to be running hotter than the thermostat (180), tends to run around 200ish. I wouldn't say it's overheating, just seems to run hotter than expected.
If it's 200ish all the time including highway, there's other issues. If it's just while stopped or in traffic, that's normal.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Originally Posted by BBCorv70
I'm slowly repairing items, replaced all seals around the radiator and shroud. I need to install a new air dam/spoiler, missing... Also need to install the seal between the radiator support and hood.
You need all the above for the cooling system to work properly.
If you want to test the clutch start a cold engine and let it run for two minutes and shut the car off and check the resistance to turn the fan.
Restart the car and let it run for ten minutes (up to normal operating temperture), shut it off and you should have more resistance to turn the fan.
As new your car had a copper, but large radiator....A 180 stat should be correct....But don't remove one thinking it will run cooler...that wont happen....
At the risk of hijacking a thread, how often does a fan clutch fail locked? Mine never seems to freewheel much since I installed a lightweight fan on it.