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i want to preface that i have not done this yet. my car is a stick so what i'm planning is to get a steel scattersheild and weld a horizontal brace on the bottom of it to go out to either frame rail. then gusset from about the horizontal centerline down to the brace as far out as i can to triangulate it. from there, small 1" square gussets will be fabricated to joint the frame in to the new crossmember at the most convenient(sp) points.
Clutchdust, I have a Lakewood steel bellhousing on my car and can say it is absolutely the lowest point under my car. Take a close look at the bellhousing before you weld anything to it ;) .
One thing to consider are solid mounts for the engine and transmission, this will lock them to the frame, making them part of it for added rigidity :) .
It is definitly easier for people to get the document from that link. If anybody has trouble getting it from the link, email me offline and I'll send it asap.
ST, been spending quite a bit of time under the car lately so i know what you mean. with the cut springs up front now and long rear bolts (this week), the car will be plenty low, too.
i had all solid mounts on the car for a while but was advised against it because the pads where the engine mounts bolt to the block are relatively unsupported. i was told by an engine builder that a car that sees alot of torque forces either by the brute force of the engine or lateral g-forces of racing can cause a block to crack around the engine mounts. so now the solid mounts are on the shelf.
i have considered the plates that can be bolted to the front and rear of the block to tie it into the frame in a location where the engine is capable of withstanding the forces but don't know if i want to go through the engineering of adding that extra 1/4" between the engine and tranny. i figure it can't be as easy as just slipping it in there and hoping nothing bad is going to happen.
If your serious you might consider investing in an older copy of the "Chevy power book" the older ones have a whole section devoted to the Corvette chassis. The "bible" as far as i`m concerned. ...redvetracr
From: Manchester, Dead Center in the Middle of TN 25 miles to Jack Daniels,10 miles to Geo Dickle, and .8 mile from the Liquor Store at I-24 Exit 114
St. Jude Donor '05
Re: Frame stiffening (redvetracr)
I also have a copy of the old "Chevy power book" somewhere and was planning on using it as a reference on my frame.
I have a question though.
I also have a '78 El Camino and it handles like a boat. So I have found a set of F-41 SS Monte Carlo front and rear sway bars to go on it along with new HD Springs all the way around. Both a G-body cars so it all interchanges and the steering box is a good 12:1 ratio too.
Well, They also come with a set of "Jounce Bars" . They are a pair of bars that link or tie the front frame rails back to the crossmember forming a triangle of sorts. Is anyone else familiar with these? Wouldn't they work just as well on the Vette ? I was actually impressed with the idea myself and had never seen or had knowledge of them until looking for a suspension upgrade for the El Camino.I thought about using a set of these and the VBP spreader bar on front of my car.
One more thing I have always been told was that the rear bar across the Corvette frame was not strong enough and it could be strengthened or trussed to stiffen the frame and that another bar could be put in the front across the frame rails to do the same thing. I think the "Jounce bars " would do the trick in the front along with the VBP bar. :smash: Jim
I have the GM prep document saved. If anybody needs it, just ask. It's 8 meg so be aware. I don't remember where I downloaded it from but it is pretty good stuff. It's called chevy power.
I have that document also but would have to dig around for it. I'll keep you guys posted when I find it and maybe edit it (break it down into different sections) and submit it to the tech tips section.....my front end rebuild comes first though...I am heading out the door right now to install the left side and get the car off the jack stands today :yesnod: :yesnod: :yesnod:
John
Cancel that:: it sat in my out box and never made it past 66%. If anybody knows how to send it, I'll do it. I am going to try and zip it and then send it....
It doesn't want to go. The zip file is doing the same thing. It just sits there at 66%. earthlink must have a limit on outgoing emails. Is there a way to post it on the site in the tech section???
prosouth, what your describing sounds like sub-frame connectors. are the 'jounce bars' different in someway? i'm still looking for experenced opinions but seems anything you can do to strengthen the frame will be benificial. just a matter of whether the additional weight and time and cost are worth what you gain. if anybody knows good mods without cutting the body, i'm all ears.
BTW, i copied the link above so i will be reading that for whatever i can get out of it. thanks.
From: Manchester, Dead Center in the Middle of TN 25 miles to Jack Daniels,10 miles to Geo Dickle, and .8 mile from the Liquor Store at I-24 Exit 114
St. Jude Donor '05
Re: Frame stiffening (clutchdust)
prosouth, what your describing sounds like sub-frame connectors. are the 'jounce bars' different in someway?
It looks like a set of bars that bolt to the front bumper bolt holes and then go to the center of the crossmember and attach. Kind'a reminds me of the X in the rear roll bar supports on my old drag car. They seemed to really stiffened the whole car up.
These are on all of the F-41 SS Monte Carlo's around '85-'86 . It is said that they do stiffen up the front end. I understand how the VBP spreader bar works and I think I like the idea of the Jounce Bars also. It seems that they will stiffen the front area by not letting the frame rails bow in toward each other and maybe even restricting a flex toe-in condition under a hard corner. JIM :seeya
Anything you can do to stiffen the frame is good. I have the strut rod - and the Vette Brakes Performance plus kit. I also invested in a Guldstrand 5 link rear suspension. I aslo went over all chassis welds with a heli-arc welder and made sure they were contiguous. Of course this was done "body off".
I added a main chassis cross brace. With my 17" Monocoque Wheels (315's back, 285's front) and GForces, the "tired old 1980" surpises many Z06 and viper drivers in the corners.
I have the spreader bar in my '80. If you go with electric fans, it's strictly a bolt on affair. There was a world of difference between my '80, with the bar, and my '79, without it. With all of the pictures of cracked frames I've been seeing lately, I can't imagine being without it. :cheers:
I'm getting scared!! Just yesterday a guy at Autozone, while I was picking up a ring compressor and a feeler gauge, was asking me about the engine I was building and what I was puting it in. After I told him he asked me what I did to reinforce the frame. "Uh, nothing..." was my reply.
Should I be concerned? I'm probably looking at 450-500 hp out of the 383. What do you guys suggest? I sure don't want a cracked frame!!! :eek: