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I have a problem with my '75. She won't start after being driven a while and the operating temps get up there.
Here are the symptoms...I get in the Vette and all the electricity in the Vette works...lights, electric clock...everything. Then when I insert the key (everything still works) BUY when I turn the key to crank the engine, ALL THE ELECTRICITY in the car, quits....how do I know this?...The electirc clock stops and no courtesy lights. When I return the key to the "off" postion, all the electricity comes back on..(clock begins to work and the courtesy lights work).
Now the wierd part....when she cools down, she starts just fine with no problems.
WHY?? Don't want to spend my time chasing downthe gremlin....
check with all the battery connections, at the battery, the ground and the starter. do you have headers? have the battery load tested.
Also, the original Chevy Starters are infamous for hot start problems. I replaced mine, with a cheap, hi-torque mini-starter for a $100 and have had zero problems since.
Just spoke with my mechanic and he wants the car to fail so he can trace the problem....either a short or an open somewhere.
This morning he went to start the car and it failed like it did to me. He checked the connections to the battery, the starter and the ground. Everything was OK. He raised the front of the car & looked underneath and checked the wiring looking for any evidence of the problem. Not finding anything, he lowered the car, got in and it functioned perfectly (started like normal) when moments before it had failed.
I'm almost sure that HEAT has something to do with it failing. Tomorrow he's going to replicate the situation to see if it will fail again. He's a Master Mechanic with 28 years at the local Chevy dealership. In fact, he's the ONLY one who I will let work on my Vette....having it 13 years, he knows my car and he's stumped.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
My first guess would be hot start with the solenoid. I do know a weak batt will allow all the lights to "dim" when turned to start.
It sounds like an internal short inside the starter solenoid or motor. One check of course would be a starter swap. Next would be a methodical isolation of circuits. U can start with pulling fuses one at a time. Keep a written record so u dont repeat the same efforts. Next u can pull one device connector at at time - here it very important to document which devices have been isolated and the results.
Don't throw parts at it! It sounds like you have an intermittent poor connection. Check all connections, take them apart, look them over, clean the surfaces and reassemble. Including the contacts in the selnoid.
We're talking about a basic DC curcuit, no rocket science here.
Hey Stuart. The most likely culprit is the starter solenoid as mentioned above or the brushes in the motor part of the starter. I have gotten many Chevys started by hitting the starter with a couple of light blows from a hammer. The fact that it started normally after being lowered is what makes me think the starter is the problem. The next time it does this, hopefully in your driveway, tap the starter then try again. The cables and connections have to be in excellent shape also of course. A cable can look perfectly fine from the outside but be severely corroded internally. The copper under the insulation can be corroded with time and cause a loss of current carrying capability. Is this a stock starter or some chrome thing? mike...
Hey Stuart. The most likely culprit is the starter solenoid as mentioned above or the brushes in the motor part of the starter. I have gotten many Chevys started by hitting the starter with a couple of light blows from a hammer. The fact that it started normally after being lowered is what makes me think the starter is the problem. The next time it does this, hopefully in your driveway, tap the starter then try again. The cables and connections have to be in excellent shape also of course. A cable can look perfectly fine from the outside but be severely corroded internally. The copper under the insulation can be corroded with time and cause a loss of current carrying capability. Is this a stock starter or some chrome thing? mike...
Thanks Mike! I will definitely look into that. Would a bad solenoid/bad starter make the car completely lose all electricity when I turn the key to start it? And then have all the electricity return when I turn the key to the "off" position?
And "no" the starter is not some chrome thing (you're bad ) It's an MSD Mini Starter that I had installed about 9 years ago.
And the last question....do you have to get a new starter because the solenoid is built in the starter or can you just get a new solenoid?
Vetteguy75 said:
"Thanks Mike! I will definitely look into that. Would a bad solenoid/bad starter make the car completely lose all electricity when I turn the key to start it? And then have all the electricity return when I turn the key to the "off" position? "
I had the same reaction when I had the problem with my 73. When in start, the amp meter would swing to -40 and nothing else would work. When off, amp meter would swing to 0 and all would work. One cooled, the car would start normally.
Problem disappeared after starter was rebuilt (with upgraded solenoid) and I correctly wired the R & S wires to it.
Fran
Last edited by Blue73Shark; Aug 23, 2014 at 06:41 AM.
On my '77 the radio and A/C systems shut down when starting even when I have the neutral kill switch turned off. Courtesy lights stay on. I am not familiar with the MSD starter but it should be able to suffer the same problems as a stock one. One last thought, when it will not start, turn on your headlights. If they go out then the problem is most likely cable related. mike...