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After being quoted a price of $1600 to rebuild my M20, I've decided to do the rebuild myself. Can anyone recommend a good place to purchase a rebuild kit/gears?
Has anyone has experience with "www.thegearbox.org"?
Not sure where you are located, but reach out to Jody's transmissions in Reading, PA. If you buy your parts from him, he will give you unlimited technical support--answer questions along the way, etc...
Not sure where you are located, but reach out to Jody's transmissions in Reading, PA. If you buy your parts from him, he will give you unlimited technical support--answer questions along the way, etc...
Stock engine / restoration, or do you want upgrades also ?
I have the L46 but have been thinking about building a 383 for the car. I enjoy the 4-speed so I'm not looking to upgrade....I have considered upgrading to a M22 but I think that it would be an overkill...any thoughts?
Not sure where you are located, but reach out to Jody's transmissions in Reading, PA. If you buy your parts from him, he will give you unlimited technical support--answer questions along the way, etc...
He's a regular on the Camaros.net forums.
Reallt good guy to deal with
I second Jody's.
He did my 70 Corvette M20. $1600 is waaay high unless case is shot.
Try T&B Transmission & Gear in Deer Park Washington. Excellent service and very helpful. Build a wooden box or platform with a hole in the top to set the trans into as a stand. When it comes time to drop the gear set into the case, you'll need it steady and at floor height. Also a good time to buy a press at Harbor Freight-it makes pressing the gears off and on very easy. Your total investment for the press, short sections of pipe (for the press), and parts will be less than $500. It's a nice weekend job.
Consider using a torque-lock slider for the 1-2 slider.
Rebuilt mine in the basement of my dad's house. Only special tool needed is a hydraulic press. You can pick one up for $125 at Harbor Freight that will get the job done:
Consider using a torque-lock slider for the 1-2 slider.
Rebuilt mine in the basement of my dad's house. Only special tool needed is a hydraulic press. You can pick one up for $125 at Harbor Freight that will get the job done:
I also got my M20 rebuild parts from '5 speeds'. .. As a first timer, the rebuild was a breeze to do. One caveat to add is to keep in mind that the roll pin that holds the reverse shifter shaft in place on the tail housing is a tapered fit. It only comes out one way. I found out the hard way...........after reading the instructions .. ! . .
I also got my M20 rebuild parts from '5 speeds'. .. As a first timer, the rebuild was a breeze to do. One caveat to add is to keep in mind that the roll pin that holds the reverse shifter shaft in place on the tail housing is a tapered fit. It only comes out one way. I found out the hard way...........after reading the instructions .. ! . .
thanks...I'll remember that when I am reassembling everything...It seems that I must always learn the hard way
read some references on using the stronger iron plate, after mine was back together..i dunno, guess it depends on your HP level and usage. i went with the torque lock sliders, they seem to be a worthwhile upgrade.
Another tip
The counter gear shaft should only come out the rear of the case. The forward end is a interference fit to minimize oil leakage from the shaft/case bore.
The reason alot of people have oil leaks from the countershaft is beacause at some time the shaft was pressed out the front of the case
Thanks for the info... Why the iron mid-plate? Did you run into any problems with the original?
The iron midplate reduces case expansion when shifting hard with high HP. The gears actually try to push apart and disengage due to the angle on the teeth. I have destroyed and rebuilt a lot of muncies back when you could buy them for $75. Easy rebuild. The iron midplate strengthens the case and reduces flex keeping the teeth fully engaged. It is a must if your building a 383 and will drive it hard. $1600 is ridiculous. You can buy an all new Autogear M22 with iron midplate, super case, heavy duty tailhousing, Bronze syncros and thrust washers, Italian straighter tooth M22 gears all new for $2025 here. http://www.5speeds.com/newm22.html
THIS HAS ALL NEW HD PARTS. If you buy a new one your rebuildable core is worth $4-500 so your at the same cost.
The new M22Z has a 2.98 first gear and nice ratio spread to match up better with a 3.08 or 3.36 rear end for $75 more.
My buddy ran an Autogear M22 in a 57 chevy behind a 540 with three stages of Nitrous and slicks every weekend for 3 years before he went with an auto for consistency. Never hurt it. I used to tear out the old muncies behind a 350 with street tires.