intake manifold installation questions
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 48
Likes: 1
intake manifold installation questions
What is the preferred method for removing paint from the replacement manifold?
What is the best method of marking the position of the distributor prior to removing it?
Is gasket sealant recommended for intake manifold gaskets?
If the air pump is not reinstalled are shorter water pump bolts required on the air pump bracket side?
Do the rubber hoses from the air pump to the exhaust manifolds have to be capped if the air pump is not reinstalled?
Thanks in advance.
What is the best method of marking the position of the distributor prior to removing it?
Is gasket sealant recommended for intake manifold gaskets?
If the air pump is not reinstalled are shorter water pump bolts required on the air pump bracket side?
Do the rubber hoses from the air pump to the exhaust manifolds have to be capped if the air pump is not reinstalled?
Thanks in advance.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 421
Likes: 27
From: Harrisburg PA
1. I would have the manifold soda blaster--if you do not have a blaster (I do not), most body shops or machine shops should be able to help you out. try not to use a sand blaster, as it can damaged unprotected mating services...
2. You can either mark the current manifold for the housing and the rotor, then use a protractor to reproduce the markings on the new manifold...that can get tricky...or, what i would do, is a "new distributor install--ie, bring the #1 to TDC on the compression stroke and install the dizzy as if installing on a fresh motor
3. It depends on the gasket--check with the gasket manufacturer..most will recommend some type of dressing around the water jackets, at least...I have always coated the whole gasket with Permatex gasket dressing...Make sure you get it right the first time...if you coat the whole gasket, it is a pain to remove again! Also, ditch the rubber or cork gaskets to seal the front and back, and go with a bead of RTV black or clear silicone gasket maker...
4. I cannot speak to this--never owned a car with a smog pump...
5. see #4
Hopefully, this has been some help!
2. You can either mark the current manifold for the housing and the rotor, then use a protractor to reproduce the markings on the new manifold...that can get tricky...or, what i would do, is a "new distributor install--ie, bring the #1 to TDC on the compression stroke and install the dizzy as if installing on a fresh motor
3. It depends on the gasket--check with the gasket manufacturer..most will recommend some type of dressing around the water jackets, at least...I have always coated the whole gasket with Permatex gasket dressing...Make sure you get it right the first time...if you coat the whole gasket, it is a pain to remove again! Also, ditch the rubber or cork gaskets to seal the front and back, and go with a bead of RTV black or clear silicone gasket maker...
4. I cannot speak to this--never owned a car with a smog pump...
5. see #4
Hopefully, this has been some help!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 904
Likes: 46
From: Crestline CA
#1, Ive had good luck w/ paint stripper, doesn't seem to affect aluminum.
#2 using a sharpie mark rotor relation to distributor body and using a automatic(or manual) punch mark relationship between distributor body to intake manifold.
#3 I use it around water passages, use the good stuff(ultra black)
#4 Possibly?
#5 No, but a better way is to remove the air injection manifolds and plug the holes in the exhaust manifolds w/ pipe plugs.
#2 using a sharpie mark rotor relation to distributor body and using a automatic(or manual) punch mark relationship between distributor body to intake manifold.
#3 I use it around water passages, use the good stuff(ultra black)
#4 Possibly?
#5 No, but a better way is to remove the air injection manifolds and plug the holes in the exhaust manifolds w/ pipe plugs.
