In my '73, every once is a while (maybe once in 10 engine starts), there is a delay of maybe a quarter of a second between the time the key is put in the START position and the response of the starter motor.

I suppose it could be anything from a battery connection to the Starter Solenoid, to the Starter or Key Switch itself. But I'm just asking here to see if it's a problem with a more common cause & fix than another.

Thanks in advance.

Steve

 

1 try and adjust your ignition switch, up towards the steering wheel, if this does not help try #2

#2 Remove your starter solenoid, carefully disassemble, you will find a big copper washer,
flip the washer over, inside the solenoid cap. clean the bolt heads off with scotch brite,
reassemble, good as new. problem fixed.
good luck.

 

You probably already know all this, but here goes. (At one time or another, I have had each one of the problems listed below on my '68 project):

Check all the easy-to reach components/easy to clean connections first....no sense in dropping the steering column if it is not necessary.

12 volts or more to the starter through the main cable AND through the purple wire at the solenoid is necessary.

You could disconnect the purple wire from the starter solenoid...place a voltmeter where it can be seen while you turn the ignition key to START----then back to the OFF position Connect the positive lead on the voltmeter to the purple wire and the black lead on the voltmeter to a clean ground on the starter or frame. turn the key to the START(CRANK) position----the voltmeter should instantly read 12 V or more.....do this test 10 or 15 times to see if there is a delay in the meter instantly going to 12 volts....ALSO----hold the key in the crank position and jiggle the transmission shifter handle to see if the needle jumps/loses voltage intermittently......have someone hold the key in the start position while you jiggle the engine harness to see if there is a voltage drop which could mean the purple wire has a break in it. Jiggling the shifter handle will show if the the neutral-safety-switch has a bad connection/or it is almost out of adjustment. Tapping on the fuse block could show a corroded internal connection in the fuse block.........tapping on the ignition switch connection while the key is turned to the start position could show that the ignition switch connection is loose....or the switch is about worn out internally...or like another member said "The switch needs to be adjusted on the column" to engage completely.

(The ignition switch (component lower on the column that the main ignition harness plugs into) has spring-loaded copper contacts inside that can become weak over time and do not apply enough force against the mating contact for sufficient current to pass through to the purple wire, since there is special grease coating everything inside the switch housing. Also, the copper contacts will develop a worn spot on them that prevents a good connection)

.....if every other test turns out O.K. and moving the switch on the column doesn't help, a new switch could be the cure

 

A through and thoughtful approach to the fix for sure my friend. Thanks Doorgunner, and also to you 69vett. You guys have a great Labor Day weekend.

Steve