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Valve Spring Choice

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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 12:47 PM
  #1  
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1969RAY
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Default Valve Spring Choice

Recently had a valve spring break while on a short Sunday cruise.
The car is a big block with a Schneider cam (256-2H), nothing special
in the motor build, just a replacement motor, by a PO in 1986. Not
many miles since then but I have put in new lifters, push rods,
and roller rockers. Probably enough history.
The springs that are in the motor are single. I've found similar, with
similar ratings butI would like to better understand the many different
choices available. Comp Beehive look interesting but is it worth the
higher price? Why do some run a 2 or 3 part spring? So I need for
advice, recommendation, and education.
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 04:01 PM
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63mako
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From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
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Originally Posted by 1969RAY
Recently had a valve spring break while on a short Sunday cruise.
The car is a big block with a Schneider cam (256-2H), nothing special
in the motor build, just a replacement motor, by a PO in 1986. Not
many miles since then but I have put in new lifters, push rods,
and roller rockers. Probably enough history.
The springs that are in the motor are single. I've found similar, with
similar ratings butI would like to better understand the many different
choices available. Comp Beehive look interesting but is it worth the
higher price? Why do some run a 2 or 3 part spring? So I need for
advice, recommendation, and education.
The springs are 30 years old with low miles. This means they had a lot of time sitting with some fully compressed. This fatigues them and failure is next. These are the recommended springs. http://schneidercams.com/65006603valvespringset.aspx
You can just replace them. Beehives will get you better valve control at High RPM but your cam will not pull at high rpm anyway. Here is the correct beehive. http://www.compperformancegroupstore...e=EFIHemiValve
You will need all associated parts.
I would go with the Schneider dual spring and just replace them. Set up @ 1.800 installed height. Hope you broke in your new lifters correctly.
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 05:06 PM
  #3  
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1969RAY
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Burning Brakes
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From: ESCONDIDO CA
2025 C2 of the Year ('63 and '67) Finalist - Unmodified
C2 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
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Thank you for the links, and for explaining the time induced age.
Makes good sense.

Hate to badger the point but why double springs over single? Maybe this is
motor 4.0 and well above me, but I am wondering about the many different
seat pressures too. Is this all RPM potential related?
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 05:32 PM
  #4  
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63mako
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From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
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Originally Posted by 1969RAY
Thank you for the links, and for explaining the time induced age.
Makes good sense.

Hate to badger the point but why double springs over single? Maybe this is
motor 4.0 and well above me, but I am wondering about the many different
seat pressures too. Is this all RPM potential related?
Spring pressure requirements are dictated by cam type, ramp design, ramp speed and rate, valvetrain weight, lift, duration, RPM. Your cam has a spec for open and closed spring pressures based on the above. Harmonics are reduced with dual spring, ovate wire, beehive design ect. over single. Spring surge, valve float, accelerated lobe wear are symptoms of improper spring pressures that can take out your engine. You should always stay in the spring pressure range closed and open recommended by the cam manufacturer. The dual spring link I posted is recommended by Schneider for your cam. Here is a better price. http://www.flatlanderracing.com/valv...schneider.html
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