I'll give those settings a try

Regarding the fuel lines... running the fuel hose was not too bad... routed down behind the passenger side bank next to the distributor - then - I mounted the fuel regulator on the face of the passenger footwell - then ran the hose back along the inside of the frame up and around the wheelwell back to the tank... not too bad - used perhaps 20-clips to hold the fuel line.

Back at the tank I was lucky to have a new style bladder tank - the bladder tank has a large opening for the gage sending unit... I was able to screw the electric fuel pump to a piece of sheet metal and use the old fuel outlet as the new return line inlet and add one new nipple for the new pressure side fuel feed. I ran the electric line through the old fuel return line. So far so good - hope the sheetmetal screws do not loosen up and fall apart.

Purchasing that submersible fuel line was pricy - I believe it was on the order of $40 for a foot and a half. Also had to be careful shopping for the electric wire to ensure it was suitable for immersion in the gas tank - found it at the local hardware store.

A surprise - the fuel pump is loud and the regulator makes a pulsing noise noticeable at idle that is annoying.

BTW - I sent in the document requesting Historical Vehicle registration earlier today.

Best to all - Carl

 

I can imagine that pump is quite loud-
Hard to tell from the photo but it looks like it's mounted right against that sheet metal 'tuning fork' with no cushioning between the pump and the sheet metal?

 

If you are referring to the in tank sheetmetal the rubber on the brackets is the cushioning.

 

Do you notice any fuel vapor smell coming from those rubber lines?
Honestly I really dont care for that in tank set up you made-looks like it is very flimsy and those self tapping screws holding up the whole deal is just begging for trouble.
I hope you didnt use those same type screws to support the reg and filter.

 

I can't tell from the picture but it appears the brackets are 'U' shaped and there is no rubber where the pump is contacting the sheet metal?

 

Looks like you are 100% correct and to add to that I would wonder how the rubber on those clamps will hold up being submersed in fuel.


Does anyone live close to the OP? He must be STOPPED!!!

 

I think those are the brackets he's using - insulated on all sides... although, I don't know if the rubber is meant for in-tank use.

 

Well look at that. Never would have guessed.

 

some of the questions...

no vapor smell from any part of the system - operates normal.

Regarding the rubber for the fuel pump mounts - I had that same question as to whether the rubber was suitable for immersion - contacted MSD and they sent back an email from the engineer verifying it was specified for immersion - one would think that is a no-brainer but since it is not explicitly stated in the instructions - had to ask.

The matter of the sheetmetal screws bothers me too... using screws allowed for quicker fabrication and what you see is the result of two iterations with the tin snips... so the screws were useful. I could have easily hit the edges with a few tack welds to lock them together - guess I'll do that should I ever have a problem with the pump becoming loose.

and yes - sheet metal screws through the fiberglass floorboard to hold the filter and regulator onto the firewall. Those screws may be changed to bolt and nuts quicker than the sheetmetal screws in the tank.

so if y'all need some fabrication help bring a sixer and come on over we can pull up under the shade tree and get-r-done!!

Best to all!!

 

 

Upon further review. .. I think I need to write a song about this install. ..

The tag line would be:

Tin-snips, vise-grips, and sheet metal screws - with the melody from Rednecks, white socks, and Blue Ribbon beer.

Fun times it is.

Also... I can see that it is time to archive this thread. The dialog was much appreciated!

Carl

 

Just curious but when years are pre-smog? Sounds like a nightmare!

I think in Md, it's pre-1977?

CC

 

Hello Carbster:

The break here in California is 1975 to 1976 model years. The issue is so **** retentive there is written clarification that even if your 1976 model car was built in 1975 - it is subject to smog check.

Carl

 

Hello Shark Racer:

The historic registration is done.

Not too bad - I already had the Haggerty classic car insurance in place - which may have made the process easier (did some DMV staffer actually check???). All I did was print the form from DMV website - entered the information - cut the $25 check - mailed it in - and a month later - the plates and the new registration sheet arrived in the mail... guess that's it...

I actually like the "Historical Vehicle" designation - it's certainly historic to me.

(allright - no funny comments about the towel under the engine!!! I am hunting for one last pesky leak!)

Carl

 

Congrats - I'll be interested to hear how it goes in 2 years with the smog exemption part, if you decide to go down that route as well.

 

Do you think anybody would mind if I installed a set of these in the mean time?

I can dream can't I?

 

You'd probably get away with it as long as you behaved..

 

As I understand things, you currently have exhaust manifold, not headers. Are they GM Rams' Horn or those shiny "smoothies" I saw in your pictures.

Also, do you have the A.I.R. system installed (I thought you did) and if so, where is your oxy sensor installed? I thought it had to be UPSTREAM of A.I.R. if A.I.R is present, though I can't figure out how you could that.

Lots of great pictures. Looks like really nice work!

Steve

 

Hey, cool, another bay area guy.

If you look at the first pic of his thread, it looks like he has the AIR hooked up in the default location. I would imagine the same thing, as you're injecting raw oxygen into the exhaust and it could skew the mixtures a little leaner than they actually are. Of course, I'm fairly confident the air pump pulse is a MUCH smaller contributor to O2 readings than the combination of cylinders.

I'm no expert, though. I know GM was using AIR w/ E4ME (feedback carb) cars in the "wrong" position.

It looks like the LG4, L81 and L83 (crossfire) all had AIR at the highest points in the port; i.e. before the O2 sensor. And sure, those are low-tech motors but the C5 had the AIR input in the same spot as well, as near as I can tell:


They could have solved AIR input with the computer, of course, but I don't think it would be trivial with only a narrowband system available, and that would be erring on the side of danger (skewing the mixture towards lean once you start pulling fuel to compensate for AIR).

 

Hello Steve:

Thank you for the compliment.

I do have stock manifolds just now. The chrome smoothies did not work out as the smoothies are sized for 2-1/2 exhaust and my L-48 pipe is 2-1/4. So I stopped the smoothies install until I can decide what to do with all these exhaust lose ends.

The stock AIR system is still in place too. On the 1976 model all the AIR goes into the passenger side half of the y-pipe. As such, I installed the MSD Atomic O2 sensor in the driver side half of the y-pipe and then set the Atomic to the "no AIR" setting. No problem.

I would like to do something with the exhaust... perhaps true duels with the chrome smoothies and 3-inch pipe or those radical headers and sidepipes.

I am still bothered that tampering with the exhaust is illegal so that aspect may hold me back from doing anything until the rules change.

Best to all...

Carl