Has anyone used or know anything about a product called Motor Kote?? Its an additive out of Mich. primarily Dupont Tefflon based. I'm not a fan of additives but have a friend that put some in his newly rebuilt 350 that runs abit warm.. and it reduced his temp by about 20-30 degrees...





[Modified by Regg, 4:09 AM 7/29/2002]

 

Hi Regg, I just went through the process of building an engine and used Synergyn to lubricate all moving parts. I bought 8 bottles of it from a forum member who is an expert engine builder and is deeply committed to researching our modern oils. Contact MountainMotor, i is $7/bottle (16 oz.) and use 2 oz. per quart. Add it to your ps as well to help lubricate it. I have now put it in all my vehicles.

 

Hi GDH... thanks for the reply... was wondering if synergyn has any Dupont Tefflon in it.....? After reading awhile, I see that even Dupont would not sell it for engine use... and some say... because it expands that it can clog oil filters and passages.... I use Mobil One and was very happy with it after tearing down an engine that had used it. I was just a bit curious about the tefflon after seeing what it had done for my friends engine heat, at this time of the year down here ... it (heat) is noticeable...and any change perks up ones attention..... tks again

 

Beware of Engine Treatments,,big difference between those and additives.

No,Synergyn does not use PTFE.

I went to the site,the Timken test is flawed,that is not what is real world going on in a engine over months of operation. Also,interesting they did not choose to test a really good oil and a additive like Synergyn. Really good as in Redline,actual blended Synergen oil,Motul and others ect.

Look at the link to the FTC and see how PTFE MUST be applied to a metal like a skillet for example,,, then tell me it will bond to an oil surface
http://www.motorkote.com/analysis101.html


IMO it is a snake oil


Have you seen any Nascar guys,NHRA , IHBA ect using MotorKote?







[Modified by mountainmotor, 10:22 AM 7/29/2002]

 

My opinion?
DONT MESS WITH OILS!

Buy a good oil.
Leave it alone.
Change it when it starts to loose it properties.

 

This is interesting. When Slick50 became commonly available here there were 2 schools of thought on it:
1. Your clutch (if wet running) will slip, the oilways will get clogged up, don't touch it, or
2. Excellent stuff, restores compression, increases hp, makes the coffee in the morning, great stuff.
This arguement went on for ages (& still does). I was given a bottle by somebody that had bought it & had then been scared into not using it. Figuring that my daily driver was living on borrowed time (it still is!), I dumped it into the engine just after an oil change, just to see what would happen. Went for a drive & didn't notice the slightest difference. Nothing. Complete waste of his £20-00! But the next morning when I started it up it felt like somebody had swapped the engine out during the night - when I blipped the throttle the revs shot up far faster than they ever had b4. The engine felt far freer (sp?) than it ever had. I can only put this down to reduced friction. After a year or so it hadn't blown up or seized, so I put some Slick50 in my bike. Same result, engine revved far more freely than it ever had before (& the wet running clutch didn't slip). As for more hp, better economy, lower running temps, etc I didn't really notice any difference. But I did notice how both engines seemed to have dramatically less internal friction. I'm neither pro nor anti Slick50 & am a cynic regarding claims made by any company about additives, treatments, etc. I'm just giving my personal experiences.
Interesting link from MM. However, the link implies that cheap oils are OK. Be careful. There is more to oil than lubricity. How do the molecular chains stand up to roller/ball bearings? Can it handle high heat conditions? etc, etc. A torque wrench & a couple of bits of metal pressed together at room temp are a world apart from nailing your engine after a heat soak following an extended high speed run. There is a common cheap engine oil here sold as a traditional 20W/50 "for the older engine". Fine for old engines that chug along, but I've heard of plenty of people putting it onto "older" engines that also happen to be high performance. They don't last long.
:cheers:

 

I used Slick 50 in a 89 probe I had. I don't know if it helped or hurt, but that engine lasted for 140,000 vicious miles. (I beat that car bad)

 

I knew someone that was on the Board of Directors of the successor to Slick 50 - trying to be vague. Very good friend and he told me that "they" knew Slick 50 was a gimmick. Condensed version of comments, but you get the gist.