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This is the style I plan to use, no spacers required,
Perhaps we're all using improper terminology. The heims in your picture have spacers. Misalignment spacers adapt ID down to smaller ID and then spacers to adjust width.. Or a combination of both.
Ex: C3 strut bracket internal width is ~1.75". Heims i used are .750 width thus needing a single .5" spacer on each side (.750 + .5 + .5 = 1.750) NO misalignment spacer was needed because I used a 1/2" bolt to match the 1/2" eye ID.
I don't see the point of the greasable tubes, but the greasable joints look like the hot tip. Not only for lubrication, but it might also flush out some grit.
I did mine a few yrs ago and I did need to use washers/shims to get the ends to fit tight in the brackets.
I don't see the point of the greasable tubes, but the greasable joints look like the hot tip. Not only for lubrication, but it might also flush out some grit.
I did mine a few yrs ago and I did need to use washers/shims to get the ends to fit tight in the brackets.
I think the idea behind the greasable tubes is that you use the heim joints that have the opening inside them coming up from the threaded area as opposed to a grease fitting in the outer ring of the heim joint.
The grease flows up from the inside of the tube into the hollow in the heim joint and ends up at the joint at the pivot point.
The threaded part of your heim joints are hollow?
Mine aren't.
Learn something every day.
Mine aren't hollow either.
Those were posted by Richard454 who posted the diagram with the tubes that had grease fittings and THOSE heim joints were hollow. Looks to be a small hole up to where the pivot ball is. The grease would come out there.
The threaded part of your heim joints are hollow?
Mine aren't.
Learn something every day.
They are not really hollow... I went with the moly ones that are rated at 18,000lbs
IIRC they were $17 and $20 for the two different sizes-about $75 total
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
I recently did heims on my 82. I went a slightly different route and did 5/8" bolt hole heims on both ends vs 1/2" hole on inboard side. I wanted it to be plenty strong and it works just fine. The car feels much more planted now in cornering. I had poly and IMO they are crap in comparison, but some members swear by poly and have had no issues, I did. Also IMO, anything with a zerk grease fitting will be weaker than a solid piece just like the U-joints that have the zerks are junk IMO as well..
Last edited by Buccaneer; Jun 24, 2019 at 11:25 PM.
I did the same thing that Buccaneer did. I used 5/8 heims on the inners also. All four heim joints were speedways heavy duty chromoly units. I used 13 inch long Afco swaged tubes and stainless steel spacers. I also modded the center bracket so the heim sits 1/2 inch lower than stock. I know it would have been easier to use a 1/3 inch aluminum spacer between the bracket and the differential but I wanted to avoid any clearance issues with the exhaust. In the end I spent less than 200 dollars and wound up with a set of strut rods that I believe to be equal to or superior to those kits available out there at twice the price.
Last edited by persuader; Jun 25, 2019 at 05:19 PM.
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
^^^THIS^^^ Nice, and way to go! Looks great. I gave my "C" craddle to my machinist and let him custom fit the spacers along with the full range of motion spacers I had for the heims. Mine, like yours came out awesome and there is absolutely no un-needed movement in the craddle end. I did go with the red anodized aluminum rods from Coleman which I think mine are 13" as well, I would have to check on that though. Also used the Chrome Moly ends, very strong. Coleman trailing arm tubes
Last edited by Buccaneer; Jun 25, 2019 at 07:14 PM.
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