Differential Rebuilding
And there it is...
Looks like the other yoke is about done too...
Is it safe to assume this differential's seen more left turns than right?!
Otherwise, it doesn't look bad. I'm not well versed in differentials so I took a video and I'm hoping some of the heavy weights (Mike?) can let me know their opinion on how it looks. I figure I may as well rebuild it while it's out. I have no idea how the gears sounded and I've read that it's not worth the risk? I turned the input 3 revolutions and got just a hair under 1 revolution of the side yoke. I assume this means this is 3.08 gears. Ring has 3756448 12 37 9 76 stamped into the edge. 37 I assume is teeth mating with 3885941 pinion with 12 teeth. September 1976 differential?
Any help on what I've got here? I'm assuming it's not the original as I've found all different year parts on this 72.
This says "CON"? and "F117"? What's this?
And here I see 0A 180 "7 1...
Stinger12 wrote a great how-to on rebuilding a differential. I think I'm capable of doing it, but I'm not sure I really want to. I called a local place and they said between $1,300 and $1,650 for a rebuild. Anyone know a ballpark price from Tracdogg2 based on what I've got?
Anyway, besides the yokes needing replaced, how's it look? Maybe that pinion shaft? I can't hear a single peep from anything in there while I'm turning it, all seems really smooth. Here's a video of it I took to help get opinions.
Again, I'd appreciate any info or thoughts on what I should do with this thing.
Thanks!
Mike
Last edited by Mike7143; Sep 13, 2014 at 04:33 PM.
My car did have some rear end humming noise while driving, but my buddy who has a '68 says some rear end noise is normal.
My car did have some rear end humming noise while driving, but my buddy who has a '68 says some rear end noise is normal.



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Thanks for the input there Tim and lurch. Didn't think about power and what that might change in a rebuild. The stock base 200hp 350 is going to remain in the 72 and I'm just rebuilding it. So I guess that means basically I just want the thing rebuilt to stock specs, nothing fancy? Does the removal of the springs and doing the special shimming do anything for me at the stock 200hp level?
From what I understand/have read, GM used the springs as a "fix all" for the differentials rather than individually shimming each unit that would probably have been impractical. I assumed I'd be removing the springs and properly setting up the shims, but perhaps I don't necessarily need to?
Mike
Now if you really want to stir up a hornets nest, ask which diff lube is better, synthetic or dinosaur oil....
In general, yes, I'm looking to keep all parts with this car as much as possible that are still original. I don't think this diff is original to the car so I don't think I'd be concerned with trade-in services. Just trying to get a good grip on what the best path is to having a stock differential that will hold up for a long time at the best value for my shoe-string budget body-off.
In general, yes, I'm looking to keep all parts with this car as much as possible that are still original. I don't think this diff is original to the car so I don't think I'd be concerned with trade-in services. Just trying to get a good grip on what the best path is to having a stock differential that will hold up for a long time at the best value for my shoe-string budget body-off.

Rob












He did mine and it turned out great. Go watch his videos and you'll see why.