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Hello everyone, I'm new to this forum I'm hoping I can find answers here that my local auto parts stores were not able to provide. I have a 1975 corvette that has a pretty much stock 350 engine. I replaced the HEI cap and rotor. What I would like to know is when the cap is removed together with the coil the center electrode button is it supposed depress if you push it with your finger? After dropping in the electrode, seal rubber washer, & I screw down the coil I find that The electrode button does not budge at all.
Any help would be greatly appreciated as the car cranks but doesn't start. I have all new wires, plugs, & a rebuilt carb. The car did start when I had the old cap and rotor. Seems that the car is not getting a Spark to the plugs but I'm not certain. Any help would be greatly appreciated
The first thing I did was drop the spring/electrode into the center hole of the distributer cap then I applied some dielectric grease to the circular rubber seal. I then place that over the spring. The spring part did stick out of the center hole of the seal. Finally I placed the coil on top and secured it with the 4 screws. When I pressed the electrode button it didn't give. It as if the spring inside has no room to flex. What did I do incorrectly?
You should not be able to move the center electrode up and down. If you can the rubber insulator is worn and needs to be replaced. The spring just transfers High energy electricity between the coil and electrode. The rotor is designed to take up any slack between the center electrode and the rotor.
does the electrode come up enough to make contact? or maybe try putting the electrode on last .
I did exactly what you said, after noticing that the electrode didnt have that " springy" feel to it when depress I took everything out again. I dropped in the rubber seal first which is brand new then I pushed the carbon electrode through the center hole of the seal, put everything back together but this time I noticed that the carbon button was not protruding enough from underneath the cap probably due to the thickness of the seal. I'm just wondering if I have a defective new distributor cap. It's an aftermarket one and not an original acdelco I'm using the original coil. Could it be possible that the dimensions of this aftermarket cap are different so when I drop in the coil it doesn't offer the proper clearance to allow the carbon button to be depress. I'm at whits end here I don't know what else to do. And thank you guys very much appreciate all the advice you can give.
You should not be able to move the center electrode up and down. If you can the rubber insulator is worn and needs to be replaced. The spring just transfers High energy electricity between the coil and electrode. The rotor is designed to take up any slack between the center electrode and the rotor.
You should not be able to move the center electrode up and down. If you can the rubber insulator is worn and needs to be replaced. The spring just transfers High energy electricity between the coil and electrode. The rotor is designed to take up any slack between the center electrode and the rotor.
Omg sorry my bad, I didn't see this before so if your saying that the carbon button shouldn't budge then I did install it correctly!! Now I have to figure out why the engine turns but doesn't start. All new wires & plugs. Every thing worked fine until I change the distributor cap an rotor
Everything is plugged back in, I don't have a spark plug tester so I ordered one. Should be here in a day or 2 . I'll keep everyone posted. If the the 3 wire connector from the distributor housing to the cap is inadvertently reversed would that fry the distributor module? Can't remember if I did that but want to check all possibilities. The car did run before the new cap and rotor.
Did you number your wires and the cap to make sure that they are correct? It is very easy to mix them up or start them off wrong. Lou.
Yes absolutely I was very careful when I rewired the spark plug cables I did one at a time removing one from the original distributor and placing the new wire in the same spot on the replacement cap and marked each wire. I also marked the position of the rotor and made sure the replacement rotor was oriented in the same position as the original
A fried control module will result in no spark. I think some auto stores like Auto Zone can check them.
Once I get my spark tester should be any day now I'll check for a spark. If no spark I'll run down to my local auto zone and hopefully they can test it for me. Thanks for that tip
May sound like a dumb question but did you get the ground wire hooked up to the coil?
Yes I did connect the ground wire to the coil, and no question is ever dumb those questions are the ones that are many times taken for granted someone once told me " dumb questions are easier to answer than difficult ones" , and I just looked at it again just to make sure I did thanks!!!
Yes I did connect the ground wire to the coil, and no question is ever dumb those questions are the ones that are many times taken for granted someone once told me " dumb questions are easier to answer than difficult ones" , and I just looked at it again just to make sure I did thanks!!!
Sorry I haven't posted any updates was sick for a couple of days was able to work on the car yesterday. I was able to get the car started!!!! Runs like a champ now. It seems that the center metal tap on the rotor was not making good contact with the carbon button on the distributer cap so I lifted it up slightly put everything back together. Attached my spark tester & had my son watch the tester as I turned the key, he yelled out "yellow lights, dad !! flickering on the tester. Took the tester off, replace wire onto plug and bingo!!! Car fired up. It's running better than it ever did. I just want to take this opportunity here and thank all of you who responded to my posts with your awesome tips and suggestions. This is a very cool forum thank you all!!!!