76 with starting problems

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Sep 28, 2014 | 10:44 PM

chrisfranks91

Thread Starter

5th Gear

Joined: Aug 2014

Posts: 5

Likes: 0

From: Tacoma Washington

76 with starting problems

I recently purchased my first corvette and am extremely new to working on cars in general. When I purchased it I was aware that it had issues starting and figured it was something I could handle. I was having battery problems for a while, ended up replacing the alternator, and purchasing a new battery. The previous owner had Car Toys install and after market stereo which is wired to the courtesy light fuse. It drains the battery without fail and is something I am hoping to address soon. I had to replace and shim in the new starter as well. I recently rebuild the carburetor (Edelbrock) and am still having problems with it starting right away. I have to hit the accelerator a few times for it to start up. I am also concerned that I replaced the original air filter with a K and N and am worried that it might effect the air to fuel mixture. It may be ignorant to ask but is it possible that the fuel pump needs to be replaced to resolve my problem?

Sep 29, 2014 | 12:21 PM

MelWff

Race Director

Joined: May 2006

Posts: 18,735

Likes: 2,582

You have a number of problems listed but only want to address the starting problem? If so do you have the problem when the engine is completely cold or also when the engine is warm? If when cold do you have the choke correctly adjusted per Edelbrocks recommendations? Did you correctly adjust the float levels? Did you install a new accelerator pump and you are sure the rubber seal hasnt twisted in any way? There is no point in changing the fuel pump unless you have poor fuel pressure which has to be checked with a gauge.

Sep 30, 2014 | 01:59 PM

chrisfranks91

Thread Starter

5th Gear

Joined: Aug 2014

Posts: 5

Likes: 0

From: Tacoma Washington

MelWff thanks for getting back with me on this. Usually when the engine is cold, I realize it is an older vehicle but am curious to know if there is an underlying problem. I did adjust the floaters in the carburetor to Edelbrock's recommendation of 5/16, and that when hanging they should be parallel. I have not adjusted the choke I was considering getting it tune via a performance shop that is local simply because I am concerned about my inexperience. Additionally I did not install a new accelerator pump I replaced the rubber seal on the pump which came as part of the rebuild kit from Edelbrock. I haven't checked the fuel pressure with a gauge yet but I read that like the Edelbrock intake manifold to the Edelbrock carb. the fuel pump recommended to match as well.

Sep 30, 2014 | 03:42 PM

JimLentz

Melting Slicks

Joined: Jan 2014

Posts: 2,478

Likes: 254

From: Downers Grove Illinois

Once you get it started does it run fine? If so, the fuel pump isn't your problem. When the car is cold and has sat for a while take off the air cleaner and work the throttle to see if accelerator pump squirts fuel into the carb. If it doesn't the accelerator pump is bad or the fuel is leaking out of the carb while sitting. You might want to also check the spark plugs as a sign of what the issue is. All the plugs on my passenger side were fouled which lead me to a stuck closed heat riser valve.

Sep 30, 2014 | 04:11 PM

hugie82

Safety Car

Joined: Mar 2007

Posts: 3,652

Likes: 49

From: Bridgewater nj

All carb engines need a few pumps of the pedal to start when cold. It sets the choke and fast idle. After it's warm, most cars won't need a pump but some do..... Fuel injection has spoiled us over the years....

Excessive cranking is a different story, meaning-cranking the engine for 10 to 20 seconds is excessive. Usually this is a low battery charge or timing is to far retarded. If the timing is advanced too far the motor will crank and almost stop on every rotation. After a few cranks like that it will kill the battery.
If you have a stereo killing the battery, for now find the fuse it is drawing power from and pull it or find the inline fuse that most stereos have in the red power supply or yellow memory wire. Also , if you have a power antenna that's not working properly, that will kill your battery pretty quick

Oct 2, 2014 | 11:31 PM

chrisfranks91

Thread Starter

5th Gear

Joined: Aug 2014

Posts: 5

Likes: 0

From: Tacoma Washington

Fair enough, this is my first car with a carb thank you for the info it starts up after 3 or 4 pumps and it doesn't have to crank for more that a few seconds 4-5 as far as the battery goes I installed a safety switch on the battery so I can disconnect with a switch until I get the stereo issue figured out. More or less have the time to get a multi-meter and get to testing. I took it out today after I rebuilt the carb this past weekend. I noticed that when I let her loose she took off fine 0-65 but around 70-80 I started having a thin smoke come out from under the hood, and into the cabin of course. When accelerating up to 3rd nothing. Should I go and have tuned and see if the problem persists? Also I purchased a K and N air filter to replace the original air filter could that be the cause? I checked under the hood as well after returning home and I didn't notice any leaks of fluid any suggestions?

Oct 3, 2014 | 12:30 AM

Ironcross

Race Director

Joined: Nov 2002

Posts: 12,142

Likes: 54

From: Taylor Michigan

your valve covers may have a small leak and dripping on the exhaust system some where along the line.....this may or may not be the answer for the smoke. But is logical...

Oct 3, 2014 | 01:29 AM

chrisfranks91

Thread Starter

5th Gear

Joined: Aug 2014

Posts: 5

Likes: 0

From: Tacoma Washington

I don't want to rule anything out off the equation but I replaced the cork gaskets for the valve covers about a month ago and they were the right size and shape, additionally fit perfectly? I also check my oil levels before I took her out and it was perfect haven't lost any oil since I changed it two weeks ago. Is there another place the oil could be leaking out that I should check?