We have to face that the OE tail light bulbs on the C3, regardless of year are not very bright. Compared to modern cars they are weak. I've followed my wife while driving our car at night and they are relatively dim. Like many of you, I've had a couple of close calls with people rear-ending me, basically because I think they are following too close to check out the vehicle (they don't follow me that close in my new Taurus) and don't pay attention to the cars stopping ahead.And, I won't mess with replacing the stock reverse light with another red tail-light in order to maintain originality and my reverse light is important to me (I installed an LED reverse light bulb which looks very nice, is brighter and doesn't have that typical cold blue hue). I think the license plate `bolt on' license plate lights are too much of an appearance compromise - just my personal opinion and I thought about trying them.

So, I recently installed a pair of aftermarket halogen tail light bulbs and wanted to share that they are at least twice as bright. You can see this in the below photo. The left (driver's) side is a new and upgraded (advertised as being 20% brighter than the original) standard tail light bulb compared with the new halogen bulb on the right side. While the photo appears to have an almost orange hue, which is one reason I removed the super-bright LED bulbs that I had also ordered, it is not that way when you look at it in real life because it retains it's original rich, red lense color, but much brighter on both, the tail lights and brake lights. I was also a little concerned with their overheating the tail light lenses and melting them. It has not been an issue this summer. They (lenses) are warm to the touch, but so far, after almost 500 miles, there is absolutely no sign of lense distortion from heat - and, I run the front & rear parking lights when I drive my car during the day. So, I wanted to pass this along since I've received countless useful tips on this forum, hoping it saves at least one accident. And, there isn't an NCRS judge that would ever find it.

On an unrelated note, if you replace your dash bulbs with those LED wedge lights, expect them to be noticeably/pleasantly brighter, and remember to drill out the down-fire lighting hole for the air conditioning panel to make it 25% larger then you'll be able to nicely see your A/C controls. You'll wish you had done it sooner. But, unless you specifically order "warm white" bulbs the default is a cold white hue which I decided that I don't care for, so I am soon replacing them with `warm white' bulbs that are also available (i.e. eBay). I just thought I would pass this experience along to our fellow C3 brethren, as well since I've seen a good number of LED lighting posts here. Dave

 

i replaced the std 1157 bulbs with 2357 bulbs when i put drl's into the front park/turn signal lens.
then i got hold of a couple of "Sylvania 3496 LL" (long life) globes.
and they were a big improvement over the 2357's.

trouble is finding good globes these days.

was looking at the really good honda 12v43/3cp globes, but shipping was over 30$ per globe as they are not stocked down here...

what are those globes you used?

i also found i got a better glow/light output by painting the reflectors white, not sure what they were originally...

 

Do you have part numbers? And thanks for sharing

 

 

Excellent post. I had the same thought process as yours but haven't started to search for bulbs yet. I would also appreciate the part numbers for the LED reverse and halogen tail light bulbs. Thanks in advance.

 

Just an FYI - The increased heat that these brighter halogen bulbs produce has actually melted some tail lamp lenses. Its been discussed on this forum.

 

I agree with the potential risk of heating the lenses. But, I've been keeping a close eye on it without issues to date. And, after seeing the significant improvement in visibility when driving and braking I think I'm in it for the haul. The LED versions did not look the same, dissipating the red too much into a reddish-clear. But, hey - it's always nice to have options.

You actually need three parts including both bulbs and a heavy duty signal flasher (LittleFuse #232) because of the change in resistance with a more efficient bulb. The part number for the Eiko brand halogen bulb I installed is #1157.

 

I am curious if the LED bulbs that you used were red or clear color? I use red LED's in the third brake light of my DD and they are bright red. The company I bought them from says NOT to use clear LED's in red lenses for the best and brightest lumens and color.

 

I tried using the "regular" warm white LED bulb. The red bulb option sounds worth checking out but I doubt that they make them in red in the size that is required. Also, I did find them in Amber color and tried replacing my front running/turn signal lights. I replaced one and then stood back 20 feet in optimistic hope to compare the look of the original incandescent look with the modern alternative.
I was eventually disappointed and now the Amber LED bulbs sit on my tool box in my garage. They were about the same brightness, and being more efficient I would have kept them. But, while they give off a more evenly diffused Amber appearance, it is missing some of the "PPP" and intensity that I decided was needed from a higher visibility standpoint. Don't get me wrong - I don't drive around white knuckled about being hit, but the slightest edge can help avoid a hit (especially with those new halogen tail/stop light bulbs) - especially considering what it will take to find repair parts, no airbag, the number of people who forget to look up from texting,, et al.

 

Thanks for the response. I have had 50 watt halogen backup bulbs and 50 watt dual filament bulbs for stop/running/turn in the back of my 78 for so many years now, I don't remember when I put them in but had to get them from an obscure source and they were pricey back then-no LED's when I bought mine LOL…

No issue with any of the 4 lenses melting for all these years...

I still am using the OEM original GM flasher-slightly faster flash but still works.

These guys have every type of LED bulb and color you can imagine BUT pricey:

https://www.superbrightleds.com

Here is a video link on the dyno with my 78 with the running lights on:

http://s894.photobucket.com/user/jba...02050.mp4.html

 

Yep - that's how bright mine are now - same as in your pic. They are 50 watt, and I recall they were $10 a piece on eBay.

 

I have two H1157 halogen lights, 12V 50/15W. I used them in a Honda CBX motorcycle in the past. Friends riding with me complained that the tail lights were so bright they thought I was braking, which upset their riding when in a close group. I removed them to keep harmony in with my friends.
I will try them in my '69 and see how they work. I am a bit concerned the additional heat they generate might cause damage to the lenses and/or the sockets. We'll see....

Pete

 

here's some interesting reading on halogen bulbs in tail lights...

paragraph a & b
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et107.htm

and
http://automotivemileposts.com/taill...omparison.html

ebay want 20$ pair, but shipping is about 15$
i'll stick with the 3496LL for now...

 

This is really helpful info. It acknowledges the illuminary shortcomings of classics, and the trade-offs with rear LEDs (cool but iffy light quality, and halogen risks with overheating if you're in a lot of stop & go traffic. I plan to stay with the halogens for now. .

 

I think for our cars the halogens are an easier retrofit than LED's and get the job done….I have had 4 halogens in the back of my 78 now for 15-20 years with no issues BUT I do not drive much at night.

I am currently waiting for 2 LED lights for my 2001 DD pontiac grand prix and intend to try a hybrid system idea. The rear tail lamp is big on the GP and trying to determine the electronic flasher needed for the LED's is not easy since the flasher is difficult to get to. I just bought 2 GP tail light sockets and will drill the appropriate hole in the housing for the socket and LED bulb, retaining the OEM light socket and bulb, wiring the new socket and led into the OEM socket wiring. I am going to use both and should not need a new electronic flasher since the the OEM bulb will provide enough current draw for the flasher to work correctly. Should be superbright and since the LED's pull 30mamp, no issues with current draw. Stay tuned…