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i will be installing electric motors to operate the headlights along with a sound system with a 12 inch sub and 6 speakers(,maybe just 4). that being said i was thinking of going with aluminum rad and dual electric fans and I'm guessing i will definitely have to upgrade the alternator. My other future upgrades that will happen will be installing better brighter headlights maybe some HID'S...
You should up your amps on alternator or do the cs1... upgrade. As they will help keep the load on although down. My lights use dim down alot at night with electric water pump and fans switched to a 105amp 1 wire and added relays to headlights helped out some
I had a high output 100 amp 12SI alternator for years but the gen light would flicker at idle with my Hella Euro Halogen headlights (100 watt highs) so I switched to the much more modern and efficient GM CS-144 (140 amp stock charging rate) a few years ago. Generally its not a great idea to up the amps in the Stock 10/12SI alternator housings since the fan will not sufficiently cool the alternator at high amp loads, will not provide high amps at idle (they require some revs for high output) and were never designed for high amp output (my stock 12Si was rated at 63 amps). I went with the CS-144 140 amp alternator since it has a much bigger housing for cooling, was designed for stock OEM 140 amps, has a much bigger cooling fan, Charges like a champ at idle (I believe, not sure now, but 60 amps at idle), and fits perfectly in the stock location. You will need an adapter wire to go from the CS-144 to the stock wiring plug (easy and cheap). I did not upgrade the wire from the alternator to the battery since my total draw is only about 80 amps but you should with your setup. I paid $170 for the CS-144 new..not rebuilt.
I had a high output 100 amp 12SI alternator for years but the gen light would flicker at idle with my Hella Euro Halogen headlights (100 watt highs) so I switched to the much more modern and efficient GM CS-144 (140 amp stock charging rate) a few years ago. Generally its not a great idea to up the amps in the Stock 10/12SI alternator housings since the fan will not sufficiently cool the alternator at high amp loads, will not provide high amps at idle (they require some revs for high output) and were never designed for high amp output (my stock 12Si was rated at 63 amps). I went with the CS-144 140 amp alternator since it has a much bigger housing for cooling, was designed for stock OEM 140 amps, has a much bigger cooling fan, Charges like a champ at idle (I believe, not sure now, but 60 amps at idle), and fits perfectly in the stock location. You will need an adapter wire to go from the CS-144 to the stock wiring plug (easy and cheap). I did not upgrade the wire from the alternator to the battery since my total draw is only about 80 amps but you should with your setup. I paid $170 for the CS-144 new..not rebuilt.
A super easy upgrade and a better way to go than the 1-wire stuff everyone seems to be going to these days.
I had a high output 100 amp 12SI alternator for years but the gen light would flicker at idle with my Hella Euro Halogen headlights (100 watt highs) so I switched to the much more modern and efficient GM CS-144 (140 amp stock charging rate) a few years ago. Generally its not a great idea to up the amps in the Stock 10/12SI alternator housings since the fan will not sufficiently cool the alternator at high amp loads, will not provide high amps at idle (they require some revs for high output) and were never designed for high amp output (my stock 12Si was rated at 63 amps). I went with the CS-144 140 amp alternator since it has a much bigger housing for cooling, was designed for stock OEM 140 amps, has a much bigger cooling fan, Charges like a champ at idle (I believe, not sure now, but 60 amps at idle), and fits perfectly in the stock location. You will need an adapter wire to go from the CS-144 to the stock wiring plug (easy and cheap). I did not upgrade the wire from the alternator to the battery since my total draw is only about 80 amps but you should with your setup. I paid $170 for the CS-144 new..not rebuilt.
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At the very least use a CS-130.
I thought the CS-144 is rated for around 80-90A at idle, assuming about a 3:1 drive ratio.
Besides upgrading the charging wire also look at the wiring method so your can make proper use of the remote voltage sensing capability of the alternator.
I thought the CS-144 is rated for around 80-90A at idle, assuming about a 3:1 drive ratio.
Besides upgrading the charging wire also look at the wiring method so your can make proper use of the remote voltage sensing capability of the alternator.
Thanks for the clarification on the CS-144 idle amps!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-CHROME-120-AMP-1-ONE-OR-3-THREE-WIRE-SBC-BBC-CHEVY-ALTERNATOR-ES-1001-C-/350970868932?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51b77e74c4&vxp=mtrNot sure why a guy needs to pay more. I have one of these, three wire works good warranted for life.:
Not sure why a guy needs to pay more. I have one of these, three wire works good warranted for life.:
What is the current draws in your application?
What is the rated idle current of that alternator?
My CS-144 will still maintain 14.4V at dash volt-meter at idle with 330W of high-beams, electric fan, electric fuel pump, EFI etc all powered. About 50A worth of load total.
What is the current draws in your application?
What is the rated idle current of that alternator?
My CS-144 will still maintain 14.4V at dash volt-meter at idle with 330W of high-beams, electric fan, electric fuel pump, EFI etc all powered. About 50A worth of load total.
Exactly! The reason I went with a CS-144 140 amp alternator on my 78 was the Hella Euro Halogens that draw 320 watts when on-that's just for lights, nothing else (100 watt high beams and 60 watt lows on the high beam setting). A 12/10 Si alternator cannot provide enough amperage at IDLE.
What is the current draws in your application?
What is the rated idle current of that alternator?
My CS-144 will still maintain 14.4V at dash volt-meter at idle with 330W of high-beams, electric fan, electric fuel pump, EFI etc all powered. About 50A worth of load total.
48 amps @ 600 rpm. Mine is actually 105 amp rated not 110 amp. Works good with 30 amps worth of fans, lights an ac running.
48 amps @ 600 rpm. Mine is actually 105 amp rated not 110 amp. Works good with 30 amps worth of fans, lights an ac running.
What voltage does it show with a 48 amp draw at idle? My 12Si 120 amp alternator would not provide 13/14 volts at idle with big loads…no problem above 1,000 RPM. Running 10/12SI high amp alternators are notorious for burning out at high amp loads for long periods of time since the casing and fans are inadequate to cool the unit with those loads. There is a reason GM went with different alternator designs when they upped the amperage ratings.
I had a 100 amp 10si, my 15 amp e-fan and ac would kill it at idle. With head lights on the gen light would be on. I installed a CS130 and it never has dropped below 14 volts, fan ac and headlight. The CS130 looks the same size as the 10si.
CS130 alternator gets my vote.
What voltage does it show with a 48 amp draw at idle? My 12Si 120 amp alternator would not provide 13/14 volts at idle with big loads…no problem above 1,000 RPM. Running 10/12SI high amp alternators are notorious for burning out at high amp loads for long periods of time since the casing and fans are inadequate to cool the unit with those loads. There is a reason GM went with different alternator designs when they upped the amperage ratings.
Found my paperwork for the alternator. I guess it's actually a 110 amp unit. According to the documentation it supplies 65 amps @ 600 RPM. So a little better than I remember.
At idle I show 13.5 volts or so on the gauge (hard to tell with the installed gauge but you can see the voltage drop with the load of the fans) with fans running and maybe slightly less with lights and A/C on.
Never have seen the ALT/BAT light come on at idle. Been running it for 3 years with no issues yet.
All it needs to do is provide more than battery voltage to keep battery charged.
Found my paperwork for the alternator. I guess it's actually a 110 amp unit. According to the documentation it supplies 65 amps @ 600 RPM. So a little better than I remember.
At idle I show 13.5 volts or so on the gauge (hard to tell with the installed gauge but you can see the voltage drop with the load of the fans) with fans running and maybe slightly less with lights and A/C on.
Never have seen the ALT/BAT light come on at idle. Been running it for 3 years with no issues yet.
All it needs to do is provide more than battery voltage to keep battery charged.
Very good. That's nice that it provides that amperage at idle and it is working fine for you. Sure as heck can't beat the price! Unfortunately my 120 amp alternator would not and my gen light would flash at idle with the lights on, otherwise I probably would have left it alone until it stopped working. I went with the CS-144-140 amp alternator since it was reasonably priced for a new unit, charged like a champ at idle, was designed for high amperage as a stock unit with stock amperage rating, and I liked the bigger more efficient housing and fan for cooling the unit. At full amperage load with everything running in the car, the unit is not even at half its amperage rating-should last a long time, hopefully.
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alternator upgrade?
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