1976 T Topper. I need to do a complete front and rear suspension rebuild! Anyone got suggestions for complete kits? I don't have an ***'y manual so pointers tips and directions to any threads on this subject GREATY appreciated.

The rebuild is a little more than I hoped for when I bought the car but I can't say I went in blind. I could hear the driver's side outer U joint clangin' and bangin' so I knew it wasn't going to be good. I hope I can get away without trailing arms.

I'm going to figure out how to post pix and do a build thread on this so others can see.

Thanks
phat87:
95 yellow cpe
93 yellow vert
91 ruby rag
87 ruby cpe
76 yellow t top

 

I bought everything for mine at the local NAPA except the rear bushing staking tool and spindle knocker.

 

edited my post, added more details.

 

I guess I'll start out with what is usually the first question: What is your budget? There are a lot of cheap kits out there, but as far as quality you might want to buy the stuff separately. The best advice I can offer you now is to avoid Energy Suspension brand Poly Kits, most here will probably tell you to avoid poly altogether. I bought the kit for my '74 and it was all kinds of useless.
The next question I have is: Are you going with stock components, or upgrading?

 

Thanks for the input.

I'm just going with basically stock performance replacement quality.

I found a complete front rebuild kit MADE IN THE USA for under $300. The company is on Ebay, I think it is called CSS. They seem to have good reviews and have sold a couple od hundred kits. Pretty much 100% positive feed back.

The rear end I will buy the U joints locally, no point in shipping that weight. The bushing kit I'm looking for online. If I get the front kit, I'll get the rear kit from the same place.

The biggest issue is whether or not to do the trailing arms. They a big ticket item.

I figure the cost is going to be close to $1000 by the time I get it all done.

Hope that clarifies things a bit.

Thanks for you help...QUESTIONS WELCOME

 

The bushing kits are all very close in price / quality when you're talking poly but rubber can vary.
Most of the hard parts, ie; ball joints, tierods, ect I sourced from amazon, rockauto and anyone else who sold quality MOOG parts.
The vendor kits ...... Some have had problems with cheap parts wearing out others have had ok results but no one is overly impressed! If they are, I would like to hear why....

 

When I rebuilt my suspension, I replaced the A-arm bushings with poly because of their resistance to gas and oil. If you go this route, be sure to grease them because they rotate inside the sleeve as the A-arms move and they will squeak. I also replaced the ball joints, tie rod ends, and swaybar linkage. Everything was worn out.

In the rear end, I used rubber bushings. The rear is a PITA, so I recommend you check, repair, and replace anything that needs it while you're under there because you only want to take it apart once. I orginally planned on replacing the U-joints to clear up some rear end noise, but found out upon inspection that the noise was because the differential to crossmember bolts had backed almost completely out on the driver's side, leaving a large gap between the diff and member. So out came to whole rear end because you have to drop the crossmember to get to those bolts. The cross member cushions needed to be replaced becase they were sliding inside the sleeves.

With the trailing arms, your largest issue will likely be getting them out. On mine, the pivot bolt had rusted to the bushing sleeve and I had to use a sawz-all with a metal blade to get them out. You may need a torch to get the old bushings out, and a press to get the new ones in. Or have someone do it.

I took mine in to a guy that restores 'vettes, and he told me the biggest issue that requires trailing arm replacement is rust in the interior of the arms that compromises their strength. Either way, you will want a reputable shop to inspect them and have them replace the bearings if needed.

If the trailing arms are solid, you should be able to have the bushings and bearings (if needed) installed for less than a new set. My quote was about $500 less, turns out I had to get some new ones anyway because of previous owner damage to the bearing spindle. That quote included reinstalling the original rivets. If the shop can't do that, you may have to adjust the rotor run out yourself when you get them back.

Finally, once you have the half-shafts disconnected, tug on the differential yokes, if any of them come out, then they are worn down and need to be replaced. Since that usually means there as been shaved metal rolling around in there, you may want to have the unit inspected as well.

You may want to consider installing heim joint end strut rods instead of the stock ones. I know they are a performance upgrade that will set you back about $250, but I went through two sets of the "stock" replacement ones in three years because the rubber vibration insulator would tear and disintegrate. Others have had no problems. Sorry for the length, but there are many things to check. Good luck.

 

After I sent my 1973 up for a little refreshing of small stuff I found I was in for a lot more. No bushings, flat rear leaf and more so I opt'ed to join Eckler Parts club and saved a chuck of money. They have monthly sales and the club discount to boot.

Ordered all new bearing, bushings, front and rear shocks/springs/sway bars, new brake lines, hoses, trans lines, E Brake cables/pulley, tank straps, rear bearing tools (a must have to do the job right the 1st time).

At this time close to 1 year later everything under mine that can be unbolted has been replace other than the trailing arms and the A frames....They were in great shape.

Karsten

 

Quite the learning curve! I have contacted John in Irvine California ( he has a current post in parts F/S) regarding buying his complete set-up. I think in the long run it will be the best bang for the buck.

He's looking into shipping for me.

Thanks for the help.

 

Got a complete bolt in set of rebuilt Trailing Arms on ebay from Westlands 11 for $685 plus $75 shipping. Returned my my cores to Westlands 11 for $75 return shipping . So total cost was $835.

Replaced all bushings in the rear with poly. No problems so far. Rebuilt the Diff with all new bearings and seals, replacing the stock 2.87 with 3.08 ring and pinion.

 

alot of different kits here. used them for all my brake parts.
http://www.cssbinc.com/corvette-susp...ts.aspx?page=4