Okay so I'm having some trouble with the front most body mounts on my 73. Everything I'm seeing online says to remove the splash shield to get access to the bolts but it seems to me that the front end and inner fender section is all 1 piece. Do I have to separate the liner from the fender or am I over thinking it? If I have to separate it, what's the best strategy? If not, how else do I gain access to them? I've got the other 6 out and these 2 are really holding me back

 

Are you talking about the body mount behind the kick panel ? You have to remove the vent level and I think these only 3 screws holding it in. Remove the inner panel and the mount is right there.

 

You're over thinking it. There should be no reason to remove an inner fender skirt to get to the mounts.

 

Condo, I'm in Bridgewater NJ if you need someone to stop by. I had a 74 that I did a big block 427, 4 speed swap and now I have an 82. That mount should be easily seen looking up from the bottom if it's the very front mount. On my 82 I got to it thru the side vent mostly but on your 73 I think it all has to be done from the bottom.

 

Thanks for the info guys. The confusion seems to be that my car didn't have splash guards on it for whatever reason so I mistakenly took the fender liner to be a splash guard (as that's a common term for the plastic wheel wells in modern cars). I can very easily access the nuts from the bottom but they both spin freely whenever I hit it with my gun. If I can hold the bolt head from the top somehow I'm sure the nut will work its way downward but I have nothing to secure a wrench to up top.

EDIT: hugie, I work at Inked Muscle Garage in Linden. You're welcome to swing by if you like. I have my 73 and 74 in there now and should be bringing in a 63 Impala to be finished as well.

 

I tried to wedge that wrench a little better but no luck. Any ideas on how to prevent the spinning? I would like to take another crack at it on my lunch break tomorrow

 

This post was written up by DUB I am just reposting!


First off. the way the body mounts are numbered is as follows:
The body mount in front by the fire wall that takes the nut is NUMBER 1 (left and right)
The body mount in the hinge post is NUMBER 2 (left and right)
The body mount if front of your rear wheel is NUMBER 3 (left and right)
The body mount behind your wheel is NUMBER 4 (left and right)

The mount that often times has the caging break is NUMBER 4. And that is not a big deal to worry about. Unless you are worried about being judged for points . The caged nut is only there for ease of assembly and a large washer and nut can be used in its place and be just as effective. Tightening up this nut may take a bit of help or ingenuity if you do it all by yourself....but it CAN be done. I am more worried about the condition of eh steel gusset plate at NUMBER 4 body mount. Often times they are badly rusted and they are FUN to get in correctly.

NO...there is NO bushing on the inside of the car at NUMBER 4 mount.

AS for getting out the body bolts...here is my take. And I do not break off bolts or spin caged nuts at NUMBER 2 and 3 body mounts. Use a SIX POINT socket. If you use a 12 point socket...you only have yourself to blame when and if you round off the head and a socket can not be used.

If I can not "feel" that I am turning the bolts at NUMBER 2 and 3 mount locations...I STOP.

Get my cut off wheel and grind off the head(s). If NUMBER 4 mount seems to be a pain in the backside and not come out...I cut the head off also. Use CORRECT EYE PROTECTION along with an approved particle mask and gloves, protective clothing...gosh I hate writing the OBVIOUS...but some members just love to point out any flaw in a post. Oh...by the way...be careful due to the sparks you will make...and have a fire extinguisher right near you...and do not do this with any flammable solvents around....and if you smell gas from your fuel tank area...be aware of it and take appropriate precautions.

When the head(s) are off the bolts that need to be cut. I remove the bushing and washer.

You CAN NOT lift the body with ONLY one side of the body bolts removed. The other side has to be loosened. If you try to jack up the body with one side still tight...you are making a BIG MISTAKE

With ALL other appropriate connections removed so the body can be lifted on one side...I lift the body and then I can get to the where the rusted or stubborn bolt is in the caged nut in the frame and NUMBER 2 and 3 and use heat and/or penetrating oil/wax to get them to come out.

If NUMBER 4 mount bolt spins...cut off the head...remove the bushing and washer and I drive the bolt upwards with a hammer to break the caging and get it out. The caging is weak and more than likely will come right out without a lot of effort. You can feel inside to determine its condition. 90+% of the time...I feel them and they are rusted and weak...and with the caged nut already spun...it usually breaks one of the rivets that holds the caging in place anyway.

When you get the body tilted...if you plan to do it that way...one side at a time...make sure you fabricate some safety support device to make sure you are 100% safe...because if your arms are in there installing lines...and the body falls down ...you will wish you has done something...OBVIOUSLY.