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So, I've always had a small tic from the right side of the engine... And yesterday it got a lil louder... So I decided to pull the valve cover and check em out... Found one that was a little looser than the others... So I proceeded to check em all and readjust...
Resetting lash got the motor to purr like a kitten and I thought I had the problem solved... Well... Drove to work, and by the time I got there the tic had come back...
Was hoping I could limp it back home... But, halfway home it started to let loose... So I pulled over and I've got a tow truck comin...
Not sure if I'll use this 'opportunity in disguise' to update my heads... Or if I'll have these ones tapped for threaded studs...
Is the tapping of the studs something that requires milling? Or just tapping of the holes etc? Has anyone attempted this themselves with a little bit of backyard mechanics? Is the price of having these machined/milled very different than just buying new heads and bolting them on? I've got some research to do in my future... But just thought I'd throw this out there for discussion. ;-)
So, I've always had a small tic from the right side of the engine... And yesterday it got a lil louder... So I decided to pull the valve cover and check em out... Found one that was a little looser than the others... So I proceeded to check em all and readjust...
Resetting lash got the motor to purr like a kitten and I thought I had the problem solved... Well... Drove to work, and by the time I got there the tic had come back...
Was hoping I could limp it back home... But, halfway home it started to let loose... So I pulled over and I've got a tow truck comin...
Not sure if I'll use this 'opportunity in disguise' to update my heads... Or if I'll have these ones tapped for threaded studs...
Is the tapping of the studs something that requires milling? Or just tapping of the holes etc? Has anyone attempted this themselves with a little bit of backyard mechanics? Is the price of having these machined/milled very different than just buying new heads and bolting them on? I've got some research to do in my future... But just thought I'd throw this out there for discussion. ;-)
There is a tool to pull the old ones and guide the tap for the holes. Pretty cheap. If you remove rockers, pushrods, clean the heads around the studs, put a towel down tight over the pushrod holes and plug the drainback holes you can tap them using a shop vac as you tap to suck up the fillings. Then vac it all real well, blow it off good, insert new studs, install pushrods and rockers and readjust. I have done this, pretty easy if your careful. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-5306/overview/
In theory, there's no reason you couldn't install screw in studs with a kit and with the heads still on the car. But...just because it can be done doesn't make it a good idea for everyone. There are many perils that could put your engine out of commission. If you elect to farm the job out to a machine shop, the cost is very modest and comes nowhere near the price of new heads. Of course, you have to consider your downtime in just the removal and re-installation of the heads, plus the time they will spend in the machine shop waiting their turn.
With that; if you are still using the factory rockers, ***** and nuts the problem may be in the nuts. They have a triangular crimp on the threads to lock the nut on the stud. But they should be replaced after a couple rounds of removal since the crimp deteriorates and they end up spinning themselves off the stud. You can check to see if the stud is pulling out by just laying a straight edge across the tops of the studs. If they are equal or nearly so, then the problem is in the nut and replacing the nuts is very cheap.
You can use a couple different type studs. A straight stud without a shoulder could be installed without removal. If you use a shouldered stud then you;ll need some machining dine. You can do it yourself just make sure you tap for the studs true. there is an cheap tool that will let you tap the stud base with the use of a pilot, based off the stud base from the next one.
If you are only having a problem with one stud you could drill and pin that stud in place. Its a lot easier than removing the heads to drill and tap all the stud bores.
This motor was a 383 crate motor transplant bought by the previous owner... With a lot of upgrades and goodies... I'm really surprised the heads were still the press in type to be honest... It's got a healthy cam, and roller rockers, and puts out plenty of HP... I don't actually know the full build specs, I'll have to contact the shop that installed it to see what it was... Cause the one listed on their website currently is close, but not quite the same as what I've got...
When I got the car, it had. 254 miles on the fresh engine ... I think I've put about 7,000 miles on it since I've owned it in the last year... So, with the exception of this rocker stud coming out, it's a great engine otherwise...
I work in tooling and fabrication... So tapping holes is not new to me... Just in a automotive application it is... So I'll research my options and see what my best route will be... Plus, winter is almost upon us, so having a 'winter project' doesn't bother me... Planned to start driving my truck again as my daily driver soon anyways...
Dude! Nice link on the stud removal/tap guide tool! Just what I was thinking. That's a very tempting option! I'll dig into it more later this weekend... ;-)
with all those engine modifications you would be better off buying a new set of 1970 LT-1 heads....perfect solution
Dorman products , sold at most parts stores has them at very attractive prices....Some joints will or may take advantage of the prices trying to make a kilig
If you are only having a problem with one stud you could drill and pin that stud in place. Its a lot easier than removing the heads to drill and tap all the stud bores.
If you were running a really hot cam and screaming down the 1/4 mile I would say screw in studs but this is common. Just drill a hole and tap a roll pin in.