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Does anyone else have a problem with it getting too hot inside the car? I ran the car without a hood for awhile and didn't have a problem. Now that I put the hood on it gets really hot inside from the headers! Opening the side vents doesn't seem to help. On a hot day it's almost to much to bare! It their anything I can do to keep some of that heat from coming inside the car??
first off, you headers give off less heat than any other type exhaust system....
in an iron system, the dense heavy castings stay hot forever, the pipes are hotter than the tubes and stay that way longer...all this without circulation as you park the car....if air circulates like when driving, it's nearly the same differance....either way, when engine is running right park the thing and look at night under the hood...exhaust is glowing...orange...
so now it's not the headers per se...
what you need is to insulate the firewall and floorboards...I used cheap water heater wrapping about 1/2 thick foil backed fiberglass from Home Depot...
ten bux. or so....make damn sure there are NO air leaks throgh firewall and shifter linkages.... maybe take a heat shield put between the floorboards and exhaust pipes under the car...leave space for air....
I thought it was the other way around: The headers give off more heat causing the engine to run cooler while the cast iron ones retain the heat causing the engine to run hotter. Coated headers are supposed to help cut down on heat transfer under the hood. I know my manifolds get hot as heck and they actualed glowed red when I broke in my last cam. :eek:
Headers will increase the heat under the hood for the simple fact that you have almost 4X the surface area rediating the heat as opposeded to cast manifolds and stock pipes
Have you bypassed the heater core yet? Or made sure the factory vacuum switch (if there is one, none on a 74) is in place and working?
I just took the heater core out of the loop and it's much better. Heat still comes in so there are holes in the firewall and the interior insulation is probably all gone . . . New AC system, insualtion and carpet are next.
If I'm gonna drive it for another two years, I want to be comfortable! :yesnod: :yesnod:
Hi Glenn,
Just wondering what you mean by "bypassing the heater core"? Do I just disconnect the hoses and run a short hose from the connections where they come out of the engine and water pump?
Just wondering what you mean by "bypassing the heater core"? Do I just disconnect the hoses and run a short hose from the connections where they come out of the engine and water pump?
That's pretty much what I did. The water pump fitting on my car is a 3/4" hose connection and the intake manifold has a 5/8" fitting. So I had to buy hose in both sizes and an adapter for 3/4" to 5/8". I bought the hoses and adapter from O'Reily Auto Parts, off the shelf items. I bought each size of hose and two adapters. I still need two more clamps to ensure the adapters hold but I don't think they require clamps. I've already driven 60-70 miles without any clamps on them and no problems but I want to be sure.
When I take my AC system apart, I'm going to install a vacuum operated shut off valve from either an earlier or later model shark so I won't have to bypass the core in the future. I also plan on checking out Vintage Air's solution to heater core flow in their systems.