Two Quick Questions....
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 178
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax VA
Two Quick Questions....
Anyone have any clue how to get the "vanes" ot of the air pump so I can be sure it won't seize up when I take it to be inspected?
And what type of grease/lub should I use inside to lube it up??
Thanks
[Modified by bsowa, 10:59 AM 8/2/2002]
And what type of grease/lub should I use inside to lube it up??
Thanks
[Modified by bsowa, 10:59 AM 8/2/2002]
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,125
Likes: 9
From: Crescent City, CA
Re: Two Quick Questions.... (bsowa)
Here is an article that I saved for future reference.
The pump itself absorbs very little power - many will, however, eventually seize as the outer edges of the vanes wear and fill the pump cavity with the fibrous vane material; this is usually preceded by increased noise, so at least you'll get advance warning.
The biggest negative of the A.I.R. system is the retarded spark at idle and the original distributor curve, both of which are readily cured with no visible clues. The other negative is the vacuum leak that occurs when the diaphragm in the diverter valve fails (and they all do - they weren't designed to last 30 years), curable by inserting a BB in the signal hose to the valve.
However, when the diverter valve diaphragm fails, the internal spool valve fails full open, so the pump is dumping air into the exhaust manifolds all the time, which results in "popping" from the exhaust on overrun (when the valve was working, it dumped pump outlet air through the little "muffler" on overrun instead of into the manifolds). This can be cured by "gutting" the pump (removing the vanes so it's simply an idler), and the finish on the tubular air manifolds can be protected by removing the fittings at the manifolds, pulling out the insert tubes, and installing a #10x 1/2" flat head machine screw in each cavity before re-installing the air manifolds.
I would think, just take it apart and break the vanes out.
Hope this helps.
Terry
The pump itself absorbs very little power - many will, however, eventually seize as the outer edges of the vanes wear and fill the pump cavity with the fibrous vane material; this is usually preceded by increased noise, so at least you'll get advance warning.
The biggest negative of the A.I.R. system is the retarded spark at idle and the original distributor curve, both of which are readily cured with no visible clues. The other negative is the vacuum leak that occurs when the diaphragm in the diverter valve fails (and they all do - they weren't designed to last 30 years), curable by inserting a BB in the signal hose to the valve.
However, when the diverter valve diaphragm fails, the internal spool valve fails full open, so the pump is dumping air into the exhaust manifolds all the time, which results in "popping" from the exhaust on overrun (when the valve was working, it dumped pump outlet air through the little "muffler" on overrun instead of into the manifolds). This can be cured by "gutting" the pump (removing the vanes so it's simply an idler), and the finish on the tubular air manifolds can be protected by removing the fittings at the manifolds, pulling out the insert tubes, and installing a #10x 1/2" flat head machine screw in each cavity before re-installing the air manifolds.
I would think, just take it apart and break the vanes out.
Hope this helps.
Terry
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 178
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax VA
Re: Two Quick Questions.... (trw)
That's a little tougher than it sounds...I thought I would just break them off. But I dont see a way to get in there and break them.....has anyone done this? I will try to post pics tonight to better explain it.
Thanks!
Thanks!
