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I am in need of some kind sole to take a look at the backside of the oil temp gauge and tell me what color wire is on the outside terminal; it is either pink/black or green/white with black in the center of the three.
The three terminal connector goes either way and I did not make a note of which is correct.
ALSO.....since I added the oil temp gauge to my '81 it was not calibrated at the factory. I see where some gauges have a geen dot resistor across the terminals, others have a yellow dot resistor.
Anyone happen to know the sender resistance values vrs temps table is?
Black/pink is your hot wire... green/white is the ohms... black is ground.
There is very little resistance difference between the green and yellow resistors. If the gauge is an original gauge, and I've not tried this yet.. but it's possible our new resistor will work for this gauge as well as for the standard temperature gauges and allow you to adjust the gauge to match actual temperatures.. I really don't think this is needed though.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Nov 25, 2014 at 08:22 PM.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Good info!
While we're on the topic, do you guys happen to carry or know where I can get my hands on the correct Delphi terminal to plug onto the oil temp gauge I'm swapping into my '78? TIA
While we're on the topic, do you guys happen to carry or know where I can get my hands on the correct Delphi terminal to plug onto the oil temp gauge I'm swapping into my '78? TIA
Maybe.. let me dig into it a few days and I'll probably come up with it.. I'm off until Tuesday, I have a short week this week. But Tuesday I'll take a peak and see what I can come up with..
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette
Maybe.. let me dig into it a few days and I'll probably come up with it.. I'm off until Tuesday, I have a short week this week. But Tuesday I'll take a peak and see what I can come up with..
Willcox
I'd appreciate that very much, but there's certainly no rush necessary on my account during Thanksgiving week.
Willcox Corvette....have a question; in your first reply it is stated that the flex circuit does not connect to the oil temp gauge; I have not been able to find a flex circuit that does not have the clock connection.
Just want to make sure that the HOT 12V flex circuit connection does not go to the oil temp gauge.
I connected it when I added the oil temp gauge many years ago and noticed this last time that the copper trace on the flex circuit between the wiring harness connector tabs and the clock tab had burned and opened-up. I repaired this but have not tried it yet. If it does not connect to the oil temp gauge, this will explain why the trace burned.
Willcox Corvette....have a question; in your first reply it is stated that the flex circuit does not connect to the oil temp gauge; I have not been able to find a flex circuit that does not have the clock connection.
Just want to make sure that the HOT 12V flex circuit connection does not go to the oil temp gauge.
I connected it when I added the oil temp gauge many years ago and noticed this last time that the copper trace on the flex circuit between the wiring harness connector tabs and the clock tab had burned and opened-up. I repaired this but have not tried it yet. If it does not connect to the oil temp gauge, this will explain why the trace burned.
Thanks,
LannyL81
correct. No one makes the circuit for the cars with oil temp gauges. with a razor blade trim off the copper where the connector touches the printed circuit. It is the safest way.
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Nov 26, 2014 at 01:09 PM.
Thanks once again Willcox Corvettes: I did not want to trim the flex ciruit for the clock as I have a working clock sitting in a box along with the gauges console for a clock....just in case one day I decide to go back to having an analog clock....so I put a couple of nylon washers, screw & nut in the clock terminal to keep it from shorting to anything.
I tested the oil temp gauge by putting different values of resistance o the signal lead and the readings were "spot on."
Thanks again....now I just need to get the passenger door back on and properly aligned.
Thanks once again Willcox Corvettes: I did not want to trim the flex ciruit for the clock as I have a working clock sitting in a box along with the gauges console for a clock....just in case one day I decide to go back to having an analog clock....so I put a couple of nylon washers, screw & nut in the clock terminal to keep it from shorting to anything.
I tested the oil temp gauge by putting different values of resistance o the signal lead and the readings were "spot on."
Thanks again....now I just need to get the passenger door back on and properly aligned.
My advice there... buy a door jack and you'll never regret it.
We've had one for years and the cost is way cheaper now as opposed to 15 or so years ago.
I have been using my Harbor Freight trans jack that I added padding to the saddle. I have another person hold the door on the jack until I get some hinge bolts in, afterwards I can move the door up, down, in, out by myself. Worked fine on the driver's door....do not know why I could not get the passenger side correct; just have to try again.
I would get a door jack, but storing it is a problem...just "no room at the Inn."
I have been using my Harbor Freight trans jack that I added padding to the saddle. I have another person hold the door on the jack until I get some hinge bolts in, afterwards I can move the door up, down, in, out by myself. Worked fine on the driver's door....do not know why I could not get the passenger side correct; just have to try again.
I would get a door jack, but storing it is a problem...just "no room at the Inn."
I was looking for a picture of ours in use and can't find it, but they break down when not being used. We made an adapter so we can mount it on our lift and then assemble the doors.. One side of the V the door sit's in will come off and it allows you full access. It's pretty neat.
But.... we do this all the time and have a constant need... for you I'm in agreement... if what's working worked, roll with it. Either way.. doors are a pain in the rear.
Maybe looking for some witness marks from the original installation under the bolts will help.
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