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What to Replace/Do While the Motor is Out?

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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 10:00 AM
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Default What to Replace/Do While the Motor is Out?

Finally my new motor project is wrapping up. I have a list of a few items that I'd like to replace/do when I pull the old engine out. What can you add to my list?
1. Evaporator core and accumulator.
2. Right hand brake line that runs under the engine.
3. Borgeson steering upgrade.
4. Clean and paint The engine compartment.

I know there is a thread somewhere on this but I couldn't find it.
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 11:39 AM
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Insulation in the trans tunnel and foam collar around the trans. Fuel hoses, heater hoses, radiator hoses. Check for frame cracks at the lower control arm mounts.
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 01:45 PM
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Anything to do with the front suspension, and the AC/heater box.
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 02:53 PM
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I replaced all hoses, belts, boiled the radiator, P/S pump. P/S ram, trans lines, heater core and motor, trans insulation, overflow tank, washer fluid tank, all head light vacuum hoses, manifolds, and other headlight parts, horns, cleaned up and replaced missing or worn wiring water pump, fuel pump, fuel lines and tubing, worn distributor with new HEI unit and I forget what else.

Karsten

Last edited by Karsten; Nov 23, 2014 at 03:29 PM.
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 05:32 PM
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I would inspect and replace as necessary firewall grommets and seals.
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 07:56 PM
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I don't see motor mounts on the list.
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by haydenray
I don't see motor mounts on the list.
Motor Mounts are one of those things I forgot about....I should add while the motor was out I replaced it with a new 375 HP 350, headers, Edlebrock manifold and QF 680 CFM Carb.

Karsten
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 08:45 PM
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when i did my 72 engine bay earlier this year, i -

-replaced the engine, A/C and forward lamp wiring harnesses,
-replaced the vacuum lines to the headlights and others,
-scraped the crap off the firewall, primed and re-painted,
-replaced a lot of grommets,
-removed and painted the "A" arms, springs and main "X" member under engine,
-removed and wire brushed the front brake line, coil spring cover and brackets,
-removed the wiper motor and installed a new firewall "donut" seal,

-trans collar and new tunnel insulation when i had trans out recently,

should have removed the blower fan motor and cleaned out the box.
then replaced with a C4 blower motor.
would have been a lot easier whilst the motor was out, instead of trying from over the fender, thru the grill....

probably a lot of other fidlly bits while i was there, but just dont remember now.

Last edited by riverracer au; Nov 23, 2014 at 08:48 PM.
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 09:22 AM
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Lots of great tips fellas.

I have rebuilt the front end with all new parts already and have replaced the motor mounts too.

Something else I thought of was to work on the headlights. I think the hood needs to be off to take the assemblies out. The side bearings need replacing. Boy am I getting a case of "while I'm at it" itis or what?
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 03:15 PM
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All of the above plus any wiring harnesses you can reach, alternator, starter wires, etc.
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 01:52 PM
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While you are at it, just pull the body and do a complete restoration! LOL. Just kidding. Plenty of good ideas posted above...
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 10:08 PM
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steering rag joint coupling
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 10:36 PM
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While the motor is out you can more easily replace old C3 blower motor with a C4 blower motor witha 10 gauge ground. You need to make a spacer to fit it. Do a search and you will see the mod I did. My new blower is nice and strong!
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Old Nov 26, 2014 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by JagNorb
While the motor is out you can more easily replace old C3 blower motor with a C4 blower motor witha 10 gauge ground. You need to make a spacer to fit it. Do a search and you will see the mod I did. My new blower is nice and strong!
I have read those threads. I replaced the ground with a bigger wire and it helped considerably. Something else to consider yes.
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Old Nov 26, 2014 | 05:32 PM
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Check the vacuum tank for leaks! Braze as appropriate.

I would not touch the electrical bulkhead connector no matter how coated with grease, unless there was a known problem.
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Old Nov 27, 2014 | 06:03 AM
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I just pulled my drive train .. Of course clean and paint but first. Remove Harness for wiring and vac system and then...

Re-route the wire and vac harness , replace as needed .. It eliminates the over the break booster hack GM created during its building of our cars.

I am also lowering the main harness at the firewall to form to the trans tunnel making that area clean and orderly.

I did remove my A/C and the box at the firewall .. That allows me to relocate the relay for the heater fan. When i am done it should put all wires and anything else out of site and what you will see will be very neat and be coming from a direction and routed in a way that makes sense
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Old Nov 27, 2014 | 07:15 AM
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Gusset the lower control arm mounting brackets on the crossmember and re-weld and complete all the factory welds at that area.
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Old Nov 29, 2014 | 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by SH-60B
Gusset the lower control arm mounting brackets on the crossmember and re-weld and complete all the factory welds at that area.
May be a dumb question...but, my engine is out and A/C is non-functional. It has never worked since I have owned the car. The PO said she had the compressor replace but it still did not work. she said they then told her there was a "blockage somewhere". Is there any advantage to try to diagnose and repair while the engine is out?
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