How difficult are Solid lifters to live with?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,600
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From: Valencia (near LA) CA
How difficult are Solid lifters to live with?
I've read many threads about different configuations. Most people agree that you get more power from solid lifters, but they require periodic adjustments. Some people have concerns about their reliability.
1. How often do they need to be adjusted?
2. How long does it take?
3. Are there any reliability problems?
4. Are solid rollers better than solid flat lifters?
I don't care about noise, but I don't want to sacrifice drivability. I enjoy a slow cruise up PCH as much as I enjoy blasting down the 1/4 mile.
I'm open to all opinions and advice.
Thanks,
~Jay
1. How often do they need to be adjusted?
2. How long does it take?
3. Are there any reliability problems?
4. Are solid rollers better than solid flat lifters?
I don't care about noise, but I don't want to sacrifice drivability. I enjoy a slow cruise up PCH as much as I enjoy blasting down the 1/4 mile.
I'm open to all opinions and advice.
Thanks,
~Jay
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,711
Likes: 43
From: San Antonio TX
Re: How difficult are Solid lifters to live with? (Jay M)
Most of what you hear about solid flat tappets is anecdotal (a friend's brother's cousin's nephew had solids) and is greatly out of place. For the most part, solids are almost as trouble and maintenance free as hydraulic flat tappets. It does take a lot longer to properly adjust them, but once they're adjusted, you only have to periodically check the lash...perhaps no more often than every 20k miles or more. Few people know this but the venerable Chrysler slant six used solid tappets and these engines lived for many, many miles -perhaps their entire life- without ever having the valve cover removed.
Now a roller tappet is something entirely different. While you can be a little sloppy with the lash on a solid flat tappet, the same can't be said of a solid roller. This is a maintenance component that can't be ignored on a roller tappet and you must regularly check your lash or you will destroy the roller (and maybe a lot of other parts). If this is a street engine that doesn't need the extra lift and duration under the curve, it's a very tough consideration when you look at the expense and maintenance. I'm not saying it's a bad choice for everyone but I tend to think if you're not sure, you shouldn't do it.
Now a roller tappet is something entirely different. While you can be a little sloppy with the lash on a solid flat tappet, the same can't be said of a solid roller. This is a maintenance component that can't be ignored on a roller tappet and you must regularly check your lash or you will destroy the roller (and maybe a lot of other parts). If this is a street engine that doesn't need the extra lift and duration under the curve, it's a very tough consideration when you look at the expense and maintenance. I'm not saying it's a bad choice for everyone but I tend to think if you're not sure, you shouldn't do it.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
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From: Forked River NJ
Re: How difficult are Solid lifters to live with? (gerry72)
I have them and they are no problem at all. My next cam will probably be a solid roller. The adjusting takes a little time but once adjsuted the yare good for quite a while. I check mine about every 2K and they are usually right on. The only time I have had to adjust is when I took the motor apart. No reliability problems at all. They are much simpler design than a hyd lifter. Many miles have been driven with a solid lifter.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,795
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From: Regina Saskatchewan, Canada.
Re: How difficult are Solid lifters to live with? (Jay M)
Most like checking them hot. You'll need a feeler gauge setup to the amount of lash your cam calls for. Place the gauge under the tip of the valve and rockers and tighten nut until pushrods on that cylinder stop spinning in your fingers. Somewhat of a crash course explanation but you should check out corvettefaq.com, there's some good info there written my Lars himself.
[Modified by Stingy74, 3:39 PM 8/6/2002]
[Modified by Stingy74, 3:39 PM 8/6/2002]
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 10
From: NorCal
Re: How difficult are Solid lifters to live with? (Jay M)
I've had 'em in my BOSS 302 since I bought it in the early '70's. They are no problem. I'll be putting a solid in my 427 when I change the heads and install the headers. I adjust my valves warm and it takes a while the first few times you do it, but now I could do it in my sleep....
Hans
By the way, the PCH is one of my favorite roads. I go as often as I can.
[Modified by Wrencher, 1:00 PM 8/6/2002]
Hans
By the way, the PCH is one of my favorite roads. I go as often as I can.
[Modified by Wrencher, 1:00 PM 8/6/2002]
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: South San Francisco CA
Re: How difficult are Solid lifters to live with? (Jay M)
Not difficult at all. If they start making noise....adjust them. It takes 30 minutes to do both sides. Double nut when you're through and they stay adjusted longer. I've done mine about five times in 30 plus years. It's not a big deal.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Re: How difficult are Solid lifters to live with? (fontking1a)
The only way to go is solids with a quality stud girdle and tall allen locking nuts. At 4000 miles i had 3-4 that had opened up to .026 from my all of them at .020. and that's with a big high lift roller cam.
If your thinking about roller get the Crane pro horizontal or maybe even the newest design rollerless. For rockers I only use steel. I have a combo of Comp Cams and Crower
If your thinking about roller get the Crane pro horizontal or maybe even the newest design rollerless. For rockers I only use steel. I have a combo of Comp Cams and Crower
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Valencia (near LA) CA
Re: How difficult are Solid lifters to live with? (gkull)
For rockers I only use steel.
maybe even the newest design rollerless
Thanks,
~Jay
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Re: How difficult are Solid lifters to live with? (Jay M)
go to this link
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=349531
Schubeck rollerless
Stainless steel is the top of the line in roller rockers next to shaft rockers
[Modified by gkull, 2:11 PM 8/7/2002]
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=349531
Schubeck rollerless
Stainless steel is the top of the line in roller rockers next to shaft rockers
[Modified by gkull, 2:11 PM 8/7/2002]
Pro
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 735
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From: Portland, OR.
Re: How difficult are Solid lifters to live with? (Jay M)
If your going to use a mild cam; .500 to .600 lift, then I would use Crane parts and use Poly-Locks to hold the adjustment. This is fine for a street set up.
If your going to use a bigger cam and rev it past 6,000 RPM's then go with the more exotic/sever-duty equipment listed by other posters.
It just depends on what you are planning to do. There is a lot of good info here to help you make a sound decision.
I love this place! :cool:
If your going to use a bigger cam and rev it past 6,000 RPM's then go with the more exotic/sever-duty equipment listed by other posters.
It just depends on what you are planning to do. There is a lot of good info here to help you make a sound decision.
I love this place! :cool:
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,418
Likes: 1
Re: How difficult are Solid lifters to live with? (Jay M)
Quote:
"I'm open to all opinions and advice."
If you have iron heads and iron block suggest setting them cold .002 looser than hot specs and use the firing order method,,makes for a quick job and no burnt fingers/hands. In my opinion you should use the piddle valve lifter not the edge orific style which will decrease valve spring life around 40 percent on a street motor.
A stud girdle is not a requirement with a solid lifter flat tappet cam . Some use the 7/16 rocker stud instead for reduced flex .I just use the ARP 3/8 studs in the Mouse motors
If you choose a cam with a nice easy lobe profile,you would be surprised at how little spring seat pressure can be used to control the action of the valve and seat bounce
The Crower 00321 cam is a sweetheart of a cam for most applications but might not be for you as I don't know you other parts ect
"I'm open to all opinions and advice."
If you have iron heads and iron block suggest setting them cold .002 looser than hot specs and use the firing order method,,makes for a quick job and no burnt fingers/hands. In my opinion you should use the piddle valve lifter not the edge orific style which will decrease valve spring life around 40 percent on a street motor.
A stud girdle is not a requirement with a solid lifter flat tappet cam . Some use the 7/16 rocker stud instead for reduced flex .I just use the ARP 3/8 studs in the Mouse motors
If you choose a cam with a nice easy lobe profile,you would be surprised at how little spring seat pressure can be used to control the action of the valve and seat bounce
The Crower 00321 cam is a sweetheart of a cam for most applications but might not be for you as I don't know you other parts ect