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Fixed the problem. The bolt which connected the shift fork to the linkage had come loose . That added a ton of slop which prevented the clutch from fully disengaging.
Last edited by yellow94coupe; Jan 14, 2015 at 10:36 PM.
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I have about 2 inches of thread left on the adjustment rod so I thought I could move the nut towards the radiator to bring the engagement point up off the floor. After moving it about a quarter inch, the problem got far worse. It wouldn't go into gear at all with the engine on and reverse still made the grinding. I moved the nut back and the forward gears are still kinda notchy.
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have you considered an adjustable fork ball? that would give you the option to get the bearing as close as possible and give you as much peddle as is available.
I have a similar issue. My Muncie will grind going into reverse, but ONLY when its real hot. I figure I need to tighten up the clutch pedal by maybe a few 16ths.
Was the throwout bearing replaced with the clutch?
It it the correct height (length) for you application?
Normally, between throwout bearings and clutch fork studs, you should be able to get most off the shelf clutches to adjust properly-
GM had several length fork studs they used in various models over the years.
If the stud length is your issue, I'd try to use one of the GM studs vs the adjustable ones. I have yet to find an adjustable one that has the proper sized and formed head on the stud to fit the forks properly.
Most are too small and the fork retainer clip won't fit/hold properly.
Just my .02
The bolt which connected the linkage to the fork under the car worked its way loose. That added a ton of slop to the linkage. I tightened it and now it works great.
The bolt which connected the linkage to the fork under the car worked its way loose. That added a ton of slop to the linkage. I tightened it and now it works great.
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