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clutch adjustment - doesn't respond how it should

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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 10:43 AM
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Fixed the problem. The bolt which connected the shift fork to the linkage had come loose . That added a ton of slop which prevented the clutch from fully disengaging.

Last edited by yellow94coupe; Jan 14, 2015 at 10:36 PM.
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by yellow94coupe
...
I have about 2 inches of thread left on the adjustment rod so I thought I could move the nut towards the radiator to bring the engagement point up off the floor. After moving it about a quarter inch, the problem got far worse. It wouldn't go into gear at all with the engine on and reverse still made the grinding. I moved the nut back and the forward gears are still kinda notchy.
...
Sounds like you should move it the other way?
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Danish Shark
Sounds like you should move it the other way?
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 12:14 PM
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have you considered an adjustable fork ball? that would give you the option to get the bearing as close as possible and give you as much peddle as is available.
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 12:23 PM
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reverse is a non-synchro gear, place your shifter into 1st and than slide into reverse
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 02:28 PM
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But if I go the other way, it'll theoretically engage more when the pedal is on the floor. I'll try it just in case.

I'm open to an adjustable pivot, but I am not sure how to tell I need it.

It grinds even after going from 1st.
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 02:45 PM
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I have a similar issue. My Muncie will grind going into reverse, but ONLY when its real hot. I figure I need to tighten up the clutch pedal by maybe a few 16ths.
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 03:04 PM
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Was the throwout bearing replaced with the clutch?
It it the correct height (length) for you application?

Normally, between throwout bearings and clutch fork studs, you should be able to get most off the shelf clutches to adjust properly-
GM had several length fork studs they used in various models over the years.
If the stud length is your issue, I'd try to use one of the GM studs vs the adjustable ones. I have yet to find an adjustable one that has the proper sized and formed head on the stud to fit the forks properly.
Most are too small and the fork retainer clip won't fit/hold properly.
Just my .02
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 04:21 PM
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A new throwout bearing was installed and I assume it was the correct one, but that is an unknown right now.

I'll keep that in mind and get a couple GM studs to try if it comes down to that.
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 10:13 AM
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Here's a link that will help you confirm if your bearing is installed on the fork properly along with other adjustment information.

http://shiftsst.com/blog/206-how-to-...clutch-linkage

Ben is available for tech assistance so don't hesitate to call.

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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 10:32 PM
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******** Fixed *************

The bolt which connected the linkage to the fork under the car worked its way loose. That added a ton of slop to the linkage. I tightened it and now it works great.
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by yellow94coupe
******** Fixed *************

The bolt which connected the linkage to the fork under the car worked its way loose. That added a ton of slop to the linkage. I tightened it and now it works great.
Awesome!
Beats having to drop the trans!!
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 09:44 AM
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Thank you for the link! I used it to verify the fork was properly installed.

Originally Posted by SilverOverdrives
Here's a link that will help you confirm if your bearing is installed on the fork properly along with other adjustment information.

http://shiftsst.com/blog/206-how-to-...clutch-linkage

Ben is available for tech assistance so don't hesitate to call.

Jeff
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by yellow94coupe
Thank you for the link! I used it to verify the fork was properly installed.
No problem and glad it was an easy fix.

Jeff
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