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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 08:31 PM
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Default Alloy small block

Hi guys. My engine just let go. I'm ready to do an alloy small block. Does anyone sell an aluminum short block. There is an alloy crate engine for sale, but I have good AFR heads, air gap intake, and Holley Fuel injection, so all I need is a short block. I don't really care about displacement, but I would like the 100 lbs weight saving. There was someone out of LA that makes and sell alloy small blocks at SEMA, but I really would like an already assembled and balanced short block.
Old Jan 18, 2015 | 08:55 PM
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Summit Racing sells a Chevrolet Performance 4-bolt main block for about $5000.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na...5075/overview/

They also sell a Brodix 4-bolt small block for about $4500
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bro-8b1150/overview/

...and a Dart small block (400 c.i) for about $5700
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dr...2222/overview/

Sounds like a great plan for loosing a few more pounds!

Good luck... GUSTO
Old Jan 18, 2015 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by GUSTO14
Summit Racing sells a Chevrolet Performance 4-bolt main block for about $5000.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na...5075/overview/

They also sell a Brodix 4-bolt small block for about $4500
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bro-8b1150/overview/

...and a Dart small block (400 c.i) for about $5700
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dr...2222/overview/

Sounds like a great plan for loosing a few more pounds!

Good luck... GUSTO
Those are all bare blocks. I would have to buy a crank, pistons, rods, cam, bearings, etc, and then assemble. I want a short block that I can add my heads, intake, oil pan, and get back on the road.
Old Jan 18, 2015 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Bee Jay
Those are all bare blocks. I would have to buy a crank, pistons, rods, cam, bearings, etc, and then assemble. I want a short block that I can add my heads, intake, oil pan, and get back on the road.
Shafiroff will sell you an aluminum short block to your liking.

See this link, and see optional components:
http://www.ultrastreet.net/shortbloc...shortblock.php
Old Jan 18, 2015 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Bee Jay
Those are all bare blocks. I would have to buy a crank, pistons, rods, cam, bearings, etc, and then assemble. I want a short block that I can add my heads, intake, oil pan, and get back on the road.
All motors start as bare blocks.

Kidding aside - I'd recommend CNC motorsports out of SD. They built the 400 in my 78 and did a damn good job, near as I can tell. I'm sure they can source the block and they definitely do all flavors of short block builds.
Old Jan 18, 2015 | 11:13 PM
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Wow, forgot how much alloy blocks cost. Still would be interested to know how much of a difference it makes in steering/balance.
Old Jan 19, 2015 | 01:33 AM
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I have an all aluminum SBC I used the GMPP Block at 400 CI. I don't think You are going to find anybody who is going to have a Short Block ready to go since the high cost of the Block prohibits sales. Possibly the Sprint ( Dirt) Cup guys but if so its not going to be configured for what You want. However You can buy a Block and a complete rotating assembly and it won't care what block its going in. Keep in mind that You can pretty much buy a new in the box LS based Motor with an Aluminum Block for the cost of a SBC Aluminum Block.
Old Jan 19, 2015 | 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Bee Jay
There was someone out of LA that makes and sell alloy small blocks at SEMA, but I really would like an already assembled and balanced short block.
Not assembled, not balanced, but block and rotating assembly in one kit.

See Bill Mitchell Products (World Castings)
Steve

Last edited by SI67; Jan 19, 2015 at 06:08 PM. Reason: figured I should remove URL. Not sure I'm allowed to post it. May be non-supporting vendor.
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 04:27 AM
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Since Dart offers shortblock sales you should call and see about a special order...they have tall deck aluminum small block for up to 455CI.

I know you're looking at weight savings, but would you consider an aluminum BB? An aftermarket aluminum BB 427 with a fancy EFI and serpentine drive accessories is my post lottery bucket list motor...

http://www.dartheads.com/

Last edited by Postal123; Jan 19, 2015 at 04:32 AM.
Old Jan 19, 2015 | 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Postal123
Since Dart offers shortblock sales you should call and see about a special order...they have tall deck aluminum small block for up to 455CI.

I know you're looking at weight savings, but would you consider an aluminum BB? An aftermarket aluminum BB 427 with a fancy EFI and serpentine drive accessories is my post lottery bucket list motor...

http://www.dartheads.com/
If I go to a different block, I'd go to an LS, just like the rest of the world. I would have to toss my AFR heads, headers, intake, oil pan, and rewire everything. Anyone got a used Gen1 in alloy?
Old Jan 19, 2015 | 11:24 AM
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Seen a block on Ebay for $3500.
Old Jan 19, 2015 | 11:54 AM
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All aluminum on the cheap : build a LM4 or L33-based 5.3 ls engine.
Mine will top at 2500$ because I'm going for a full rebuild.

Edit : nevermind, didn't see you answer.
Old Jan 19, 2015 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Bee Jay
If I go to a different block, I'd go to an LS, just like the rest of the world. I would have to toss my AFR heads, headers, intake, oil pan, and rewire everything. Anyone got a used Gen1 in alloy?
I think I muddied the water...Dart offers at least two aluminum smallblocks in standard deck height as well. I mention them only because of their other shortblock offerings. Otherwise I'd contact CNC or Shafiroff. Personal experience with CNC was very good...they were patient, offered advice, and delivered as promised.
Old Jan 19, 2015 | 01:31 PM
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Go 427 sb or bigger.....
Old Jan 19, 2015 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by dugsgms74
Wow, forgot how much alloy blocks cost. Still would be interested to know how much of a difference it makes in steering/balance.
Since I tend to be the one to geek out on this sort of stuff anyway...

Bearing in mind that the block's CG is roughly 15" aft of the front axle CL (SBC or BBC), the weight savings from a lighter block would be split between ~85% at the front and ~15% at the rear. Bee Jay's shark being lighter than average, and to keep things simple for the sake of clarity, let's use a 3,400# C3 with 50/50 weight distribution as an example. Here, the difference had with a 100# lighter block would amount to a 3,300# car with ~48.9/51.1 f/r distribution.

Yes, for those who tend to press nearer the limits than the average driver, this nominal weight redistribution is enough to noticeably shift a car's balance towards the understeer end of the scale from whatever may be its current state. No, we're not talking about a vast amount. While I won't attempt to offer a universal prescription here - there being a good deal more to the equation than this one factor - I will generally recommend that anyone in this situation who wishes to compensate for such a change strongly consider reducing front bar (especially if already running a 1.25" or larger one) before looking to further stiffen the rear. After all, we will have reduced overall anti-roll stiffness requirements.


TSW


FWIW to those who may be interested, the difference between an L82 SBC and an iron BBC w/alum heads, intake and water pump is only ~90#. And, an all aluminum BBC would actually come in at ~20# less than the L82, and is definitely on my "lottery winning wish list". ...427 CID!

Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Jan 19, 2015 at 01:59 PM.
Old Jan 19, 2015 | 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 63mako
Seen a block on Ebay for $3500.
Can you give me a link to that please?
Old Jan 19, 2015 | 04:15 PM
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Racing junk has some low prices too. Bill Mitchel blocks with $3800 for the sbc. But be careful as they dont list the vendor unless its Bill Mitchel themselves or maybe Racing junk. But they do list PayPal so u should have some protection.
Take a look:http://www.racingjunk.com/Blocks/252...UM-BLOCKS.html

Myself i would really compare block weights before buying an expensive aluminum block as i recall the difference is less than 100 lbs. I recall something like 60 lbs but i havent looked into it for a while so that number maybe low. But for the price difference between alum and pig iron u can afford a lot more goodies to go into the iron block with the savings - and start with a much stronger aftermarket block too.

Good luck and let us know what u can find out there.

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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 05:40 PM
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For the money required for the aluminum block you could go with a cgi
dart iron eagle block with raised cam tunnel and 4 bolt billet caps on all 5 mains and still be ahead money wise.Out of curiosity what size are your afr heads?For the same ballpark in price as the alloy block you can buy a dart assembled little m sportsman short block from competition products.
Old Jan 19, 2015 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Bee Jay
Can you give me a link to that please?
Found it. What do you guys think?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331439611880?item=331439611880&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
Old Jan 19, 2015 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Bee Jay
It sounds like a lot of money for a used welded up block.



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