Rear rotor removal
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 161
Likes: 17
From: Georgia
Rear rotor removal
Any tricks of the trade on getting the rear rotor to release from the spindle. I drilled rivets, chiseled heads off and drilled down to outer surface of spindle flange. Used 1/8, 1/4 & 5/16 bits from advice I found on the forum. I had soaked for several days with PB blaster and as I rapped on the back of the disk I could see rusty liquid weaping from behind into the holes I drilled.... appears that the rivets are free of the spindle flange from that I assume. Still after a couple hours rotating and banging with block of wood and 2 lb hammer this thing hasn't budged AT ALL. 73, car is on the frame, Georgia car, normal rust for it's age. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 161
Likes: 17
From: Georgia
It won't rotate, rusted up. The rotor spins with no drag, half shafts are off. Been
measuring around spindle end with depth gauge, hasn't moved .001. Which way does cog rotate to loosen shoes ?
measuring around spindle end with depth gauge, hasn't moved .001. Which way does cog rotate to loosen shoes ?
Last edited by vette_jim; Jan 30, 2015 at 03:15 PM. Reason: additionally
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 2
From: Lewisburg WV
thegazman
if the rotor spins freely, it doesn't sound like the parking brakes are holding anything. Are sure you have all of the rivets out?
Last edited by thegazman; Jan 30, 2015 at 03:39 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 822
Likes: 82
From: Columbus OH
Very aggressive! Those suckers have been attached for a very long time. It doesn't sound like you plan on reusing the rotors anyway, otherwise you could have left them on the car and found a shop that would turn them while still on the car.
Take a picture or two to share with us. There might be something someone sees that could help.
Good Luck!
Take a picture or two to share with us. There might be something someone sees that could help.
Good Luck!
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Pro
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 699
Likes: 46
From: Charlotte NC
Can you use a spindle press and push out the whole assembly? Much easier to work on it then. In my experience the shank of the rivit is holding it as much as the heads. The wheel studs are a very close fit & might help hold it too.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 161
Likes: 17
From: Georgia
I've got the holes drilled down to the spindle flange, bits wandered off center maybe 1/10 " on a couple, would this have it seized up. Don't have a spindle press, plan to rebuild using my shop press. I think I haven't been aggressive enough, maybe some lateral blows along with in & out. Got it soaking again tonight. I'm a newbie, not familiar with posting pics yet. Thanks for the input. You guys have some great looking cars.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,926
Likes: 739
From: Youngstown Ohio
Yes.....5/16" bits are not large enough. I used 3/8" bits on mine, then popped off the remaining sliver ring of rivet, then smacked the rotors with the hammer..........they fell right off.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 161
Likes: 17
From: Georgia
Success !!!
The 3/8" bit as stated above is the final size to use. For other newbies to this procedure, if any of the rivet's shank is left in there you will have a tough time getting that rotor off. Whereas the stud holes have clearance built into them for straight forward removal the rivets do not. If any substantial rivet remnants are left in there then you have a tremendous amount of side to side wedge holding the rotor to the spindle. This is my take on it anyway. Also I made several raps around the e_brake drum to loosen it up side to side, used a piece of 1/8" aluminum to cushion hammer blows. I put plenty of Pb blaster into e-brake adjustment holes, this also helped drum part of rotor slide over e-brake shoes. My adjuster was frozen with rust. Thanks for the help guys.