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ordered stainless brake shoe hardware. have taken off PB on one side and noticed that one of the retaining pins is not accessible for replacement unless I take off the back plate (its sandwiched between back plate and brake caliper bracket). Not sure If I should leave it or try to struggle getting old rusted nuts loose holding back plate in place. Kit also comes with lever that the brake cable attaches to. I haven't seen any info on the replacement procedure for this lever assembly and how difficult a process it is. anyone with experience/suggestions on this?
ordered stainless brake shoe hardware. have taken off PB on one side and noticed that one of the retaining pins is not accessible for replacement unless I take off the back plate (its sandwiched between back plate and brake caliper bracket). Not sure If I should leave it or try to struggle getting old rusted nuts loose holding back plate in place. Kit also comes with lever that the brake cable attaches to. I haven't seen any info on the replacement procedure for this lever assembly and how difficult a process it is. anyone with experience/suggestions on this?
To speak of, that one pin that holds the spring isn't replaceable without removing the spindle (can't remove the backing plate without removing the spindle) If you manage to bend it enough to sneak a new pin in somehow you'll have a time trying to bend it back straight and have anything still sit right.
If the original is still there, use it and move on.
The lever arm is fairly easy, just takes some wiggle/twist/wiggle/twist and it'll go into the slot provided. Don't fight or try to pound it in, it will drop in once you get the right feel.
I should add that there seemed to be an issue with the stainless brake shoes that people were having. The hardware kits all were fine but the actual pads didn't seem to fit properly and most went to stainless hardware, regular pads
M
Thank you for the info and photos it will help when I get ready to do this.
Originally Posted by Mooser
I should add that there seemed to be an issue with the stainless brake shoes that people were having. The hardware kits all were fine but the actual pads didn't seem to fit properly and most went to stainless hardware, regular pads
M
Thank you for the info and photos it will help when I get ready to do this.
Greg we never run stainless shoes in our shop... only the stock shoes for us. The stainless hardware and the stainless shoes don't see to get along....
Mooser is dead on about the pin, if you must replace it you can bend the shield to remove and replace... it's the only way. Personally, I'd leave it.
Thanks. only ordered regular shoes and stainless hardware.
Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette
Greg we never run stainless shoes in our shop... only the stock shoes for us. The stainless hardware and the stainless shoes don't see to get along....
Mooser is dead on about the pin, if you must replace it you can bend the shield to remove and replace... it's the only way. Personally, I'd leave it.
Okay, I' m planning on using GM Lube and posi additive in my 68'. I have seen numerous versions and part # for these products. For the Diff lube theres AC Delco 80W-90W 10-451 GL-5, AC Delco "speacial formula"75W-90W 10-4061, Genuine GM Fluid 80W-90W GL-5 89021669, or AC Delco 80W-90W GL-4 89021671.
Then the limited slip fluid GM 88900330 or AC Delco 10-4003.
Any ideas on the correct fluids? I have seen all advertised for use in my car in different corvette parts mags and on line. Whats the correct ones for my 68'? (none are synthetic).
Also I have seen using 2 4 oz. containers of limited slip some say 4 oz. is enough other say six ounces.
Id be willing to bet that any of the gear lubes will work but I'm pretty sure GL-4 is what it came with. As far as the additive goes, use one bottle and if it chatters you can always add more later.
I find it amazing that most guys say GL-4 is okay to use in a vintage Corvette axle with hypoid gears. The original spec was Mil-L-2105D, which was replaced with the commercial API 80W-90 GL-5 in the seventies. Both the old mil-spec and GL-5 have a sulfur based EP additive that is REQUIRED for maximum hypoid gear service life. (It's what gives GL-5 its pungent odor.) Use of GL-4, which lacks this additive, in the axle may result in shortened service life. Mil-L-2105D/80W-90 GL-5 was also used in manual transmissions of the era. Many now use GL-4 with no technical rationale for "downgrading" from GL-5 to GL-4. (The "yellow metal corrosion" story with GL-5 is as fake as the "Steele dossier".) GL-4 may be okay for transmissions since they don't have hypoid gear sets, but I've never seen any long term durability test data for GL-4, so I recommend the modern equivalent of the original mil-spec, which is GL-5.
Any auto parts or big box store that carries automotive service products should carry at least one brand of SAE 80-90 GL-5. You don't have to buy from GM. Also, as is the case with engine oil, BRAND MAKES NO DIFFERENCE. Just make sure the label contains the API "donut" that says SAE 80W-90 GL-5.
The NAPA part number for the limited slip additive is NCB 4285V (four ounce bottle) and most other parts chains can cross reference this to other brands. All Clutch type LSDs use this same additive. The C2/3 Corvette axle capacity is 3.7 pints and generally one four ounce bottle is sufficient to prevent clutch chatter.