C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 12:11 PM
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Default 454 Engine

Have a 76 Vette that came with a 350 Engine. What to put in a 454 Engine will any 454 Engine work?
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 02:37 PM
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
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Assuming you follow thru, welcome to the late C3 BB retrofit club. One of the two best mods I ever made to my shark (the other was converting from auto to manual).

It would be easiest to stick with a standard deck height (9.8") Mark IV block. CID is up to personal preference/goals, as long as you don't mix and match internally vs. externally balanced bits. Using stock C3/BB accessory hardware will make for a fairly straight-forward swap.

However, should you choose to go with a Gen V or Gen VI there are notable differences. For instance, the Gen VI doesn't provide for a mechanical fuel pump or block-mounted clutch linkage. Also, while the Mark IV uses a 2-pc rear main seal, the later generations use a 1-pc, so the crank, cap, oil pump, pan and flywheel are not interchangeable. There's more, so definitely study up on them if you opt for a V or VI.

In any event, as BBCs tend to cost more to build up than do their SB brethren, best to establish a budget, your goals, and to do your homework before you start buying parts. A potent BBC can certainly be put together for a lot less, but IMOE it's not all that difficult to end up with $10-15K in one either. Oh, and check local laws. You'd hate to have to undo this.

Lastly, if you can afford, I very highly recommend aluminum heads. That would put your engine weight at less than 100# over that of an L82 (with that weight behind, NOT above the front axle). Yes, you'll need to do some chassis/suspension re-tuning, but if done properly you needn't worry about ruining your handling despite propaganda otherwise. My $.02 and good luck!


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Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Mar 8, 2015 at 03:02 PM.
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 02:40 PM
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Thanks for the info. I am going to take your advise. I have it all torn apart. How much of a pain in the *** would it be to change it to Manual Trans?
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 03:43 PM
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
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The clutch pedal assembly and linkage does require a measure of patience for the work under the dash, but the automatic frame's removable trans cross-member actually makes installation/removal of the box itself easier than with the manual's fixed one. Among other adaptations, you'll need to obtain and weld the clutch linkage bracket onto the frame. Also, you'll need to cut a hole thru the tunnel for the shifter, which is easier to get right by using the correct lower shifter boot as a template. There's also the clutch and neutral safety switches with which to deal (something you might consider omitting/overriding for any track days to afford limping out of harm's way). Other gear boxes aside, for a B-W or Muncie 4-speed I'd recommend upgrading to a Hurst Competition Plus shifter. There's a stock appearing lever available if you prefer that look. If you intend on thrashing it very often, track or otherwise, I'd invest in a SFI bell. HTH
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