Squish!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Squish!
Oh Joy! More oil leaks.
I now know the reason why the 1973 Chevrolet Service Manual instructs the use of sealant for the front and rear Intake Manifold joints to the block.
Steve
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Pro
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 722
Likes: 58
From: Karlsruhe (Germany)
I had a leaky chinawall on the rear side last year.
Did not want to remove the complete intake and gave it a try.
Scratched many silicone out, cleaned everything 20 times with alcohole and sprayed new silicone into the gap.
And it´s not leaking anymore since one year
Did not want to remove the complete intake and gave it a try.
Scratched many silicone out, cleaned everything 20 times with alcohole and sprayed new silicone into the gap.
And it´s not leaking anymore since one year
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
I've realized the thickness of the Head Gasket makes the decision to use or not use the accompanied black rubber fore & aft Intake Manifold seals.
The Mr. Gasket 582X-series gaskets are relatively thin, making any end seals crush, like in the photos. I just installed some Victor Reinz MS15315 gaskets, which are considerably thicker, and I regret not using the included end seals, as there now is a visible gap between manifold and block. I hope I made the bead of silicone large enough to seal the joints! Used this stuff.
Steve
The Mr. Gasket 582X-series gaskets are relatively thin, making any end seals crush, like in the photos. I just installed some Victor Reinz MS15315 gaskets, which are considerably thicker, and I regret not using the included end seals, as there now is a visible gap between manifold and block. I hope I made the bead of silicone large enough to seal the joints! Used this stuff.
Steve
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
I've realized the thickness of the Head Gasket makes the decision to use or not use the accompanied black rubber fore & aft Intake Manifold seals.
The Mr. Gasket 582X-series gaskets are relatively thin, making any end seals crush, like in the photos. I just installed some Victor Reinz MS15315 gaskets, which are considerably thicker, and I regret not using the included end seals, as there now is a visible gap between manifold and block. I hope I made the bead of silicone large enough to seal the joints! Used this stuff.
Steve
The Mr. Gasket 582X-series gaskets are relatively thin, making any end seals crush, like in the photos. I just installed some Victor Reinz MS15315 gaskets, which are considerably thicker, and I regret not using the included end seals, as there now is a visible gap between manifold and block. I hope I made the bead of silicone large enough to seal the joints! Used this stuff.
Steve
Will be the 5th time I will have removed the Intake Manifold on this engine. No question I am very good now at removing it. It's the installation that has me buffaloed.
Steve
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 878
Likes: 55
From: Deep South Denmark
You probably know this, but the block and intake have to be completely clean and degreased before applying the sealer or it will pop out.
I'm looking forward to seeing if the manifold on my own big block build is leak free as for the first time I didn't use the end seals. Before I always used the rubber seals and gasket maker.
I'm looking forward to seeing if the manifold on my own big block build is leak free as for the first time I didn't use the end seals. Before I always used the rubber seals and gasket maker.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Do you mean Permatex #2 ?
Steve
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Steve
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,883
Likes: 124
From: Lubbock TX
Be careful not to put too much on the China rails.
I've torn down two big blocks that had chunks break off and wedge themselves in the oil pump pickups. Less than 20 hours run time on either, both were junk after being starved for oil.
Little holes may help give the sealant something to stick to, but then you gotta dig it out any time you change. I've always gotten mine clean as possible, then cleaned with solvent, allowed to dry and laid down the bead.
I've torn down two big blocks that had chunks break off and wedge themselves in the oil pump pickups. Less than 20 hours run time on either, both were junk after being starved for oil.
Little holes may help give the sealant something to stick to, but then you gotta dig it out any time you change. I've always gotten mine clean as possible, then cleaned with solvent, allowed to dry and laid down the bead.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Be careful not to put too much on the China rails.
I've torn down two big blocks that had chunks break off and wedge themselves in the oil pump pickups. Less than 20 hours run time on either, both were junk after being starved for oil.
Little holes may help give the sealant something to stick to, but then you gotta dig it out any time you change. I've always gotten mine clean as possible, then cleaned with solvent, allowed to dry and laid down the bead.
I've torn down two big blocks that had chunks break off and wedge themselves in the oil pump pickups. Less than 20 hours run time on either, both were junk after being starved for oil.
Little holes may help give the sealant something to stick to, but then you gotta dig it out any time you change. I've always gotten mine clean as possible, then cleaned with solvent, allowed to dry and laid down the bead.
Steve
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 81
From: Hamilton Virginia
Yup. make sure both surfaces are spotless. I myself used either the black sealant or gray sealant. A couple mechanics in the past told me they have always had better luck with the black or gray. Apply a 1/4" bead. Let it sit for about 15 minutes. Install the manifold straight down, no wiggling. Torque down correctly and let it sit overnight before starting. Unless there was still dirt on the surfaces or you manifold is damaged or warped, should be good to go.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,720
Likes: 19
From: Manhattan Beach Ca
Been there.....
Took me 3 or 4 attempts until it stopped leaking. What I found is let sit for 24 hours. Make sure bead is extra large no matter what. Use accetone to clean block before application. Use Ultra Black and make sure to get the little corners by the heads good. My .02
Took me 3 or 4 attempts until it stopped leaking. What I found is let sit for 24 hours. Make sure bead is extra large no matter what. Use accetone to clean block before application. Use Ultra Black and make sure to get the little corners by the heads good. My .02
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
It does not leak now. For how long? Who knows? But this thing has to get out of the garage and get back on the road.
You don't mind if I call you Zoolander, do you zuendler? Easier for me to remember.
Thanks for the input.
Steve
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,883
Likes: 124
From: Lubbock TX
It takes two people, but I finally figured out how to get one straight down onto the block. I have my assistant hover the manifold above the block with the sealant in place, use two - 4" bolts, one in each corner, just start the threads. This will guarantee the intake goes straight down and aligns with the holes since it uses the bolts for guides.
Cavu2u, I agree, but many folks put way too big of beads of sealant based on "the bigger the gob, the better the job" theory, possibly after watching me weld. They don't consider that a bunch of that excess is going to get pushed into the inside and could break off and end up somewhere it's not supposed to be. If mine takes a bead bigger than an old yellow pencil, it's time to machine the intake for fitment. Only had to do that once, found out later that the heads had been machined quite a bit.
Cavu2u, I agree, but many folks put way too big of beads of sealant based on "the bigger the gob, the better the job" theory, possibly after watching me weld. They don't consider that a bunch of that excess is going to get pushed into the inside and could break off and end up somewhere it's not supposed to be. If mine takes a bead bigger than an old yellow pencil, it's time to machine the intake for fitment. Only had to do that once, found out later that the heads had been machined quite a bit.