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If you get frames sag does the front wheel camber tend to increase or decrease? Also, can anyone tell me what the std front camber would be in inches or millimetres, I'm struggling with the deg thing
Usually, the frame sagging would cause more negative camber. Normal front camber would be very close to zero degrees or slightly negative. Maybe this pic will help you understand camber:
Reading Camber at Home: Drive car straight in on level floor. Wheels straight. Cut a 3/4" to 1" piece of angle iron to the length that will fit vertically straight up and down between the beads of your wheel. Preferably fit it straight up and down across the center of wheel. But if the wheel hub is sticking out further than the beads then move the angle iron back or forward off of center but still verticle and on the bead of the wheel top and bottom. U can assure verticle with a small carpenters level. Now tape the angle iron in place and make sure it can't move and that it is tight on the bead of the wheel. Now take a quality but still school grade protractor and hold it on the outside edge of the angle iron. Read your camber in degrees off the protractor. Don't get mixed up with which way the protractor pointer is pointing. If the wheel is out more at the top that is positive camber. If it is out more at the bottom that is negative camber. with a good protractor you should be able to read at least to a 1/2* . Dave.
By placing a set square against the wheel and measuring the difference between the top of the rim and the bottom I can see I have negative camber which explains the tire wear on the inside. Thanks Oldchev I will try and get my head around your method (a pic would help:-) I have a brace between the shock towers so will see what adjusting this slightly longer does.
You can check the frame by measuring between the upper control arm shock towers. (You can do this with someone else and a tape measure without removing anything).
Measure between where the upper control arm studs protrude out of the shock towers (the flat surface where your alignment shims would be up against the frame) should be 26 3/8" ... if its less you have "rail roll" which will mess with your alignment screwing up your camber and caster.
My favorite way to estimate front camber is with an online angle calculator. For example, http://www.csgnetwork.com/righttricalc.html.
I just have to know the "adjacent side" length as measured across the rim or tire, and the "opposite side" which is the distance from one end of that length to level or plumb.
For example, if I measure across two points on the tire 18" apart, and then use the level to see how far one side is away from the plumb line, let's say .3", I plug this data into the calculator and get an angle of .95 degrees.
If you put a protractor on that thingy wig that Silvertone is holding, you can read the degrees. I prefer to cut my metal piece (angle iron) to fit right on the bead of the wheel. Don't put it on the tire. (the tire is fatter on the bottom than the top).
[QUOTE=mysixtynine;1589202074]You can check the frame by measuring between the upper control arm shock towers. (You can do this with someone else and a tape measure without removing anything).
Measure between where the upper control arm studs protrude out of the shock towers (the flat surface where your alignment shims would be up against the frame) should be 26 3/8" ... if its less you have "rail roll" which will mess with your alignment screwing up your camber and caster.
I checked the distance and it is 26 5/8" not 26 3/8" what does this mean?