Driveshaft removal options
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Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Slidell Louisiana
Driveshaft removal options
Got the car about 20 inches off the ground (on ramps) to pull the turbo 350 for a 4 speed conversion. Removed the rear drive shaft strap bolts with the wheels hanging so I could spin the shaft. I move to the front and find the yoke has no straps and bolts (solid yoke). Auto bolt in cross member (that's a plus) and was thinking when lowering the tranny that it would pull the yoke out of the transmission. But then I'm looking at the rear differential bracket and figure the drive shaft will bind in the tight space. I have another driveshaft that came with the conversion parts (M21 from a 74) and includes the yoke with the straps. Any ideas without pulling the differential. Obviously will not pull the transmission with the motor as I have it all up in the air (plus I just put the motor in complete with hooker side pipes). I hate to cut the shaft if there is another option. Suggestions???
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From: Slidell Louisiana
Will give it a try. Was going to try to see if a large c clamp would fit up in there but it got late. I figured this would happen as the 4 speed pedal install went smooth as butter, and that is supposed to be the hard part.
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
Rookie suggestion: Use emery cloth to clean the rust off the yoke-shaft between the trans. output seal and the "ears of the yoke". Then the driveshaft should slide all the way into the transmission so the tail-end of the driveshaft will drop down from the differential........then the front part of the driveshaft with the yoke still attached should come out of the trans. tail housing when you give it a yank (put a pan under the tail housing to catch the trans. fluid).
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From: Slidell Louisiana
DG. It lools like the rear of the drive shaft would have to move forward about 8-10 inches to clear the rear frame and diff bracket as the driveshaft sits above them. Front of shaft has to drop to remove it forward. Front supposed to have a bolted/strapped tranny yoke. But no such animal in my case. Appreciate the input though.
Last edited by rajin cajin; Mar 16, 2015 at 02:07 PM.
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
DG. It lools like the rear of the drive shaft would have to move forward about 8-10 inches to clear the rear frame and diff bracket as the driveshaft sits above them. Front of shaft has to drop to remove it forward. Front supposed to have a bolted/strapped tranny yoke. But no such animal in my case. Appreciate the input though.
Last edited by doorgunner; Mar 16, 2015 at 06:50 PM.
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From: Slidell Louisiana
Richard, 5lb maul didn't budge it. DG, here is the distance it would have to move forward. And 75, ya bubba stuck it to me good. Now that I look at it, I'm glad i'm getting it out. Two of the retaining rings / clips were completely missing. Good way to end up side down on the interstate. I'm just going to cut the yoke around the U joints and save the driveshaft. I though about lowering tranny and moving it forward to pull yoke, problem is that rolling it forward on the jack would run into the bottle jack holding up the motor..... What a mess.
Last edited by rajin cajin; Mar 16, 2015 at 08:49 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
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Got the car about 20 inches off the ground (on ramps) to pull the turbo 350 for a 4 speed conversion. Removed the rear drive shaft strap bolts with the wheels hanging so I could spin the shaft. I move to the front and find the yoke has no straps and bolts (solid yoke). Auto bolt in cross member (that's a plus) and was thinking when lowering the tranny that it would pull the yoke out of the transmission. But then I'm looking at the rear differential bracket and figure the drive shaft will bind in the tight space. I have another driveshaft that came with the conversion parts (M21 from a 74) and includes the yoke with the straps. Any ideas without pulling the differential. Obviously will not pull the transmission with the motor as I have it all up in the air (plus I just put the motor in complete with hooker side pipes). I hate to cut the shaft if there is another option. Suggestions???
1. shorten and re-install
2. custom build a new complete unit.
3. purchase new complete unit.
I was speaking to american power train, and in their kit they have a
"Seamless DOM Driveshaft Assembly - Race Balanced, Solid U-Joints
Billet Face Flange Yoke - Bolts in for easy installation"
This allows the driveshaft to be removed without problems. Now I understand what he was talking about. I did not realize ,what a solid yoke meant for removal.
What still has me thinking is why would they use this design if it cannot be removed ?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Midlothian VA
Ok, because it's getting close to April 1st I'll take a shot at this:
Slip a long screwdriver between the rear u-joint and the differential and pry the shaft forward into the back of the transmission "just enough" to get the rear u-joint clear of the differential now lift the rear of the drive shaft up ABOVE the differential carrier and push the shaft back toward the rear of the car over the carrier. Once the front snout just clears the rear of the transmission you should be able to easily pull it out forward. Have something to catch or stop the fluid from running out the back of the transmission.
Slip a long screwdriver between the rear u-joint and the differential and pry the shaft forward into the back of the transmission "just enough" to get the rear u-joint clear of the differential now lift the rear of the drive shaft up ABOVE the differential carrier and push the shaft back toward the rear of the car over the carrier. Once the front snout just clears the rear of the transmission you should be able to easily pull it out forward. Have something to catch or stop the fluid from running out the back of the transmission.
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From: Slidell Louisiana
I suspect this is not original to the car. The Independent Rear Suspensions in our c3 are unique versus a solid axle rear end. As my car is not matching, I assume that yoke was in the existing tranny. I'm just wondering how the hell they got it in there. Must have installed engine and tranny together and slid yoke into tranny as the transmission was sliding down into the transmission tunnel when installed.
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
I suspect this is not original to the car. The Independent Rear Suspensions in our c3 are unique versus a solid axle rear end. As my car is not matching, I assume that yoke was in the existing tranny. I'm just wondering how the hell they got it in there. Must have installed engine and tranny together and slid yoke into tranny as the transmission was sliding down into the transmission tunnel when installed.
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
Ok, because it's getting close to April 1st I'll take a shot at this:
Slip a long screwdriver between the rear u-joint and the differential and pry the shaft forward into the back of the transmission "just enough" to get the rear u-joint clear of the differential now lift the rear of the drive shaft up ABOVE the differential carrier and push the shaft back toward the rear of the car over the carrier. Once the front snout just clears the rear of the transmission you should be able to easily pull it out forward. Have something to catch or stop the fluid from running out the back of the transmission.
Slip a long screwdriver between the rear u-joint and the differential and pry the shaft forward into the back of the transmission "just enough" to get the rear u-joint clear of the differential now lift the rear of the drive shaft up ABOVE the differential carrier and push the shaft back toward the rear of the car over the carrier. Once the front snout just clears the rear of the transmission you should be able to easily pull it out forward. Have something to catch or stop the fluid from running out the back of the transmission.
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From: Slidell Louisiana
Only about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch from the top of the carrier to the floor board of the car. It's not going over it. Diff in right lower corner of picture and black fiberglass is floor board. Very compact.
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I promise I won't say a thing about a hole saw (I'm channeling Bubba!)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Midlothian VA
The shaft need only be pushed up and over the rear diff just a few inches to get the snout out of the transmission. From that point it pulls out toward the front of the car. There should be just enough room above the diff snout to remove it from the back of the transmission.
I refer you to your "5lb hammer" photo above - there's "just enough" room above the diff snout to get the rear of the drive shaft high enough to pull it from the tranny - from there the it drops down in front and pulls forward.
Helps if you position the diff snout so the ears are horizontal to the floor and allow the u-joint to "fold" into the recess - really only need less than two inches above the yoke due to the taper of the shaft and the u-joint folding to clear the snout.
I refer you to your "5lb hammer" photo above - there's "just enough" room above the diff snout to get the rear of the drive shaft high enough to pull it from the tranny - from there the it drops down in front and pulls forward.
Helps if you position the diff snout so the ears are horizontal to the floor and allow the u-joint to "fold" into the recess - really only need less than two inches above the yoke due to the taper of the shaft and the u-joint folding to clear the snout.
Last edited by Hammerhead Fred; Mar 16, 2015 at 09:39 PM.
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From: Slidell Louisiana
I see what you are saying. Put the U joints with a X shape and let the two top prongs slide up into the space between the diff and floor board. Will try it tomorrow, and if no cookie will get the hole saw out like DG said always wanted to learn to fix holes in fiberglass 
always wanted to learn to fix holes in fiberglass
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From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Take a sawzall or cutoff wheel if you can position it where you can get to it and cut the front Ujoint on each side of the yoke. Push the yoke in, drop the shaft out the front and replace front ujoint and the front yoke with the correct yoke on reinstall. Trash the $15 ujoint not the yoke, driveshaft or cut a hole in your fiberglass. Cut it right at the rubber where it meets the cross. caps will knock right out after removing the clips
Last edited by 63mako; Mar 16, 2015 at 10:34 PM.
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From: Slidell Louisiana
Beat on u joints with a hammer and pipe, No luck with a large c-clamp. Saw blades smoking and bending. Drive shaft would not move back but an inch or so. Finally cut the yoke at the U joint cap...