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I purchased a 383 stroker crank and when it arrived (6+ months later), it had a flat spot on the #1 main bearing journal. I sent it back to exchange it for another one. So I lay the replacement in the block so I can clearance the block for the rods. I only snug the main saddles enough to rotate the crank... maybe 5 ft lbs.
The crank cut grooves in the new bearings... to the point that you can catch your fingernail in them. I had to get the "new" crank polished. And... buy a new set of bearings.
Did you oil the bearing surfaces ? You can't have metal to metal contact. JUst the weight of the crank sitting on the bare (no oil) bearings is enough to scratch to bearings
Did you oil the bearing surfaces ? You can't have metal to metal contact. JUst the weight of the crank sitting on the bare (no oil) bearings is enough to scratch to bearings
Yep. Been doing this for... 64-14= 50 years.
The crank is/was bad right out of the box.... twice.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Sorry to read of your disappointment Tom. But it reads like a corrupt vendor from the start if it takes 6 mos to deliver a popular crank unless its a special/custom item (special machine work and treatments). Please let us know if it is non-supporting vendor (as i suspect) you would have nothing to worry from them. Or if a supporting vendor then please PM me.
Issues like that are such a demoralizing experience to someone hoping to enjoy their hobby with a more powerful motor and become victimized by greedy cronies. Rebuilding an engine is a difficult and tedious task to do correctly then to have cronies send u bad parts makes the process a lot more painful and costly.
Sorry to read of your disappointment Tom. But it reads like a corrupt vendor from the start if it takes 6 mos to deliver a popular crank unless its a special/custom item (special machine work and treatments). Please let us know if it is non-supporting vendor (as i suspect) you would have nothing to worry from them. Or if a supporting vendor then please PM me.
Issues like that are such a demoralizing experience to someone hoping to enjoy their hobby with a more powerful motor and become victimized by greedy cronies. Rebuilding an engine is a difficult and tedious task to do correctly then to have cronies send u bad parts makes the process a lot more painful and costly.
Thx for sharing.
pm sent... it is a stroker crank but nothing out of the ordinary... standard 383 crank.
It's an Eagle cast stroker, internal balanced crank. Everything is already balanced. The engine is just for cruising.... no racing... and budget dictates the source. I know.... you get what you pay for... but... the minimum is that the product can actually be used and not be a boat anchor. The intended use and price are a match. The Chinese workmanship puts the equation out of balance.
It's an Eagle cast stroker, internal balanced crank. Everything is already balanced. The engine is just for cruising.... no racing... and budget dictates the source. I know.... you get what you pay for... but... the minimum is that the product can actually be used and not be a boat anchor. The intended use and price are a match. The Chinese workmanship puts the equation out of balance.
Yeah, you'd think they should at least sell it straight, smooth, and balanced within spec. No quality control apparently. I think Callie's has a budget minded line called Compstar, forged over seas, checked then machined in Callie's USA shop for quality control. They have rods of the same name origin/process too. Good luck Tom, I'm sure you'll get it sorted out soon.
Jim
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
I really think a lot of the eagle cast crank failures occur in engines with big cams, heads and are reved too high for the crank design. I know eagle has a set of cast strokers rated at only 400hp while eagle sells a 500hp rated cast crank also and a lot customers dont respect those ratings. But if u install it with a short cam and economy heads u may still have a long life from a 400hp crank. Most specifically driven behind an automatic trans rather a manual where the clutch gets dumped now and then. Most of the cast eagle crank failures i have seen photos of where separation at the rods crankpin which kinda leads me to a shock loading as the cause. BTW i didnt see any rounded fillets on those pix - pretty much straight cut at the edge.
Again good luck and thx for sharing Tom as it helps us all here.
After I sent two Eagles back for goosegged journals, I took them off of my list of suppliers. Never had a simlar problem with comparable Scat cranks and I have used a few.
The guy who grinds cranks for me usually has a half dozen Eagle cranks in his shop every time I'm there. He tells me stories of all sorts of issues he finds with them. One of the biggest or most common is the rod journals aren't parallel with the center line of the mains. Which causes a number of problems. To the point I won't install one until it's turned 0.010 0.010 right off the bat.