Throttle Total Travel Issue
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 53
From: Bogart GA
I am trying too but the cable is connected to it and I am not sure how to get it disconnected from the fire wall. I a looking at the manual now.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: BC
Do not remove the whole assembly. The cable comes through a white plastic grommet that has a cut in it at the top of the pedal.. You can remove it by taking the return spring off the carb, then reach up above the pedal and just slip the cable off the plastic insert. Pull the plastic insert forward and out of the metal rod. You can then probably bend your pedal back up to normal and install the cable again without spending a dime on parts.
Last edited by CanadaGrant; Apr 2, 2015 at 05:51 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Just pulled the pedal and cable assemblies out. The pedal arm has nice bend in it near where the cable attaches. Before I straighten it was it straight to begin with?
Thanks.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 53
From: Bogart GA
I found that little plastic insert. Pushed it through and removed the cable from the rod. Do not straighten that bend, it is supposed to be there. I bent mine near the pivot point. I gave myself an extra +3/8". I also trimmed the sheathing back about an 1/2 inch from the carb side of the cable because I was bottoming out there as well. Won't know how well it works until I get the engine in the car...
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,926
Likes: 739
From: Youngstown Ohio
You have a '69 like mine, so yours is like this pic...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...ca/pedal01.jpg
Bend the lever on the right (not the solid bent bar) that sticks up in the pic towards you (away from the floorboard). About 1/2" should do it. (I then tack welded mine so it wouldn't bend back again). This will bring your gas pedal about 1/2" higher when all is re-assembled. This angle gives you more adjustment room for full throttle at the carb.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 20,910
Likes: 962
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
You have a '69 like mine, so yours is like this pic...
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...ca/pedal01.jpg
Bend the lever on the right (not the solid bent bar) that sticks up in the pic towards you (away from the floorboard). About 1/2" should do it. (I then tack welded mine so it wouldn't bend back again). This will bring your gas pedal about 1/2" higher when all is re-assembled. This angle gives you more adjustment room for full throttle at the carb.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...ca/pedal01.jpg
Bend the lever on the right (not the solid bent bar) that sticks up in the pic towards you (away from the floorboard). About 1/2" should do it. (I then tack welded mine so it wouldn't bend back again). This will bring your gas pedal about 1/2" higher when all is re-assembled. This angle gives you more adjustment room for full throttle at the carb.
In the mean time, am I missing a part somewhere? There are two crimped pieces on the pedal end of the cable. Looks like they are the force and closed points of the cable. However, they are about 3/4" apart. Has one of these slipped, or is there a part that should take up this extra clearance as the slotted plastic grommet is only about an eighth inch thick. This 5/8" "slop" is preventing my secondaries from opening completely. I can change things to make it all work, but I'm curious what the original configuration was.
Thanks for the help!
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,057
Likes: 421
From: BC
I'm not having any luck getting the picture to pop up.
In the mean time, am I missing a part somewhere? There are two crimped pieces on the pedal end of the cable. Looks like they are the force and closed points of the cable. However, they are about 3/4" apart. Has one of these slipped, or is there a part that should take up this extra clearance as the slotted plastic grommet is only about an eighth inch thick. This 5/8" "slop" is preventing my secondaries from opening completely. I can change things to make it all work, but I'm curious what the original configuration was.
Thanks for the help!
In the mean time, am I missing a part somewhere? There are two crimped pieces on the pedal end of the cable. Looks like they are the force and closed points of the cable. However, they are about 3/4" apart. Has one of these slipped, or is there a part that should take up this extra clearance as the slotted plastic grommet is only about an eighth inch thick. This 5/8" "slop" is preventing my secondaries from opening completely. I can change things to make it all work, but I'm curious what the original configuration was.
Thanks for the help!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 20,910
Likes: 962
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
I've got the assembly out of the car. The plastic "grommet" is intact. I understand that a cable can stretch. My question is what takes up the 5/8" slack in the rear of the cable, as I don't believe that slack is due to stretching.
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Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,057
Likes: 421
From: BC
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,057
Likes: 421
From: BC
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 20,910
Likes: 962
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,057
Likes: 421
From: BC
I lined up the original 69 cable with the C/C repro and there was a quarter inch diff. I could not get full throttle no matter how I mounted it. See the pic below and how far back the flange on the cable is from the mounting bracket. No idea how a cable could stretch like that but a new one did fix the problem.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,926
Likes: 739
From: Youngstown Ohio
I'm not having any luck getting the picture to pop up.
In the mean time, am I missing a part somewhere? There are two crimped pieces on the pedal end of the cable. Looks like they are the force and closed points of the cable. However, they are about 3/4" apart. Has one of these slipped, or is there a part that should take up this extra clearance as the slotted plastic grommet is only about an eighth inch thick. This 5/8" "slop" is preventing my secondaries from opening completely. I can change things to make it all work, but I'm curious what the original configuration was.
Thanks for the help!
In the mean time, am I missing a part somewhere? There are two crimped pieces on the pedal end of the cable. Looks like they are the force and closed points of the cable. However, they are about 3/4" apart. Has one of these slipped, or is there a part that should take up this extra clearance as the slotted plastic grommet is only about an eighth inch thick. This 5/8" "slop" is preventing my secondaries from opening completely. I can change things to make it all work, but I'm curious what the original configuration was.
Thanks for the help!
The rod part on the right in the pic leading out of view is the part that needs bent forward. It looks like this....
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 53
From: Bogart GA
I found that little plastic insert. Pushed it through and removed the cable from the rod. Do not straighten that bend, it is supposed to be there. I bent mine near the pivot point. I gave myself an extra +3/8". I also trimmed the sheathing back about an 1/2 inch from the carb side of the cable because I was bottoming out there as well. Won't know how well it works until I get the engine in the car...