Front Brake Rotors and Rivets

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Aug 12, 2002 | 03:03 PM

bigvette1

Thread Starter

Drifting

Joined: Jan 2002

Posts: 1,645

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From: Schaumburg IL

Front Brake Rotors and Rivets

Taking out the rivets to change out the rotors on the front does not seem like too hard of a task. But putting them back in appears like a royal PITA. These are not small pop rivets.

Any suggestions from the experienced people and how to make sure the rotors are true to the hub for a perfect fit with minimal run-out. Thanks

Aug 12, 2002 | 03:07 PM

427V8

C6 the C5 of tomorrow

Joined: Nov 2000

Posts: 6,665

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From: Twin Cities Minnesota

Re: Front Brake Rotors and Rivets (bigvette1)

I drill and tap the hubs for a 3/8" 16 screw, then drill the rotor rivit holes bigger to clear the screws. Then it's a simple job to use 5 screws to remove the rotor...

( use all 5 to keep it in balance )

Unless you are going for NCRS points:rolleyes:

Aug 13, 2002 | 03:56 AM

LT1driver

Le Mans Master

Joined: Oct 2000

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From: Texas-out west

Re: Front Brake Rotors and Rivets (bigvette1)

don';t need to put rivets bafck in rotors, lug nuts hold everything together nicely. :cheers:

Aug 13, 2002 | 03:34 PM

HWY 9 - Z06

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Joined: Jan 2002

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From: BOULDER CREEK ca

Re: Front Brake Rotors and Rivets (bigvette1)

you dont need the rivets, BUT, you will want to check rotor runout after mounting them. if your run out is over .006 you will suck air in the calipers and its a major PITA!! You will want to index the rotors for the least amount of runout then shim the low side till you have the least runout possible. then mark your rotors so if you ever have to take them off the car you can put them back on the same way.

Aug 13, 2002 | 09:16 PM

427V8

C6 the C5 of tomorrow

Joined: Nov 2000

Posts: 6,665

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From: Twin Cities Minnesota

Re: Front Brake Rotors and Rivets (HWY 9 - '69)

The problem with not riviting ( or bolting) your rotors on is that

1. It makes it hard to bleed the brakes since the rotor is flopping around sucking air in

2. Makes it very possible to get some rust or dirt between the rotor and the hub throwing the runout out of spec...

Aug 13, 2002 | 11:25 PM

bigvette1

Thread Starter

Drifting

Joined: Jan 2002

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From: Schaumburg IL

Re: Front Brake Rotors and Rivets (427V8)

Many thanks. I think I will go with bolting the rotors on and checking the runout so I don't suck air.

Aug 14, 2002 | 01:45 AM

Chinaski

Team Owner

Joined: Apr 2002

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From: Northridge California

St. Jude Donor '14

Re: Front Brake Rotors and Rivets (bigvette1)

what do you do if there is run-out?

Aug 14, 2002 | 08:41 AM

GTR1999

Tech Contributor

Joined: Aug 1999

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From: Connecticut, USA

Re: Front Brake Rotors and Rivets (eleven79)

What I did on one car to the rear rotors was tap them with 3/8-24 in the rivet hole. Then open the hole up with a counter sink and use socket flat head screws. I thned took the spindle rotor assy' and turned it .004" in a lathe. I plan on doing this to the fronts too. Instead of using an conventional lathe,I'll have an experienced brake lathe guy true them on a brake lathe.
On another car I replaced the rear spindles with well known aftermarket spindle and they were out .002" to start,when the rotor was added they ran out .005"-.006" I used some ss shim stock to shim them to .0015"-.002" and didn't bolt them on.
Point is, you have to check each one you do. You can use just the lug nuts but be sure to use an indicator on the rotor afterwards.
Gary