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Headlight Doors:Ghost in the machine

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Old Apr 16, 2015 | 04:53 PM
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Default Headlight Doors:Ghost in the machine

1976 Corvette and I switched the power brakes to the hydro-boost system because of low vacuum on new engine/camshaft and I prefer the performance and assurance of assist with the hydro-boost. Have added a separate electric vacuum pump connected to line going to interior controls, and manifold vacuum from one fitting to pcv and catch can, the other manifold vacuum source goes to the auto transmission and the headlights via a splitter. When I first start the car in the AM after a short while the headlight doors come up but I haven't turned the lights on. If I turn the lights on and then off, the doors stay up. If I push the below-dash switch in, and then out. the doors stay up. After driving around for a while the doors might come back down on their own, or not. Same thing the next day, I use the car as a daily driver. [Never intended to but I like it a lot!] I've ordered a new below-dash switch and the trouble-shooting guide on headlights and vacuum from Eckler. What do you think is going on? Thanks.
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Old Apr 16, 2015 | 05:13 PM
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Up front there you have a vacuum 'relay' up there, maybe even two of them, there are 4 vac hoses going into each relay....3 large at about 1/2" OD, and one small signal hose to the main control valve....

the control valve needs vacuum to tell the relay to suck the lights DOWN, absence of vacuum on the small line will let the relay go to the default position, meaning put the lights UP......for obvious reasons....

so you need a vacuum wiring/routing diagram and go from there, but this maybe enough to get your started....

BTW the center large hose is under full vac from intake manifold....and so changes state in the relay, telling the canisters to life/drop the lights....

most frequent problems are the 'witches hat' seal on the operating canisters, where the output lever goes to the lights, maybe the relay itself......or some dries up hose over some ~35 years or so....

hate it when my hose dries up.....


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Old Apr 16, 2015 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by mrvette
Up front there you have a vacuum 'relay' up there, maybe even two of them, there are 4 vac hoses going into each relay....3 large at about 1/2" OD, and one small signal hose to the main control valve....

the control valve needs vacuum to tell the relay to suck the lights DOWN, absence of vacuum on the small line will let the relay go to the default position, meaning put the lights UP......for obvious reasons....

so you need a vacuum wiring/routing diagram and go from there, but this maybe enough to get your started....

BTW the center large hose is under full vac from intake manifold....and so changes state in the relay, telling the canisters to life/drop the lights....

most frequent problems are the 'witches hat' seal on the operating canisters, where the output lever goes to the lights, maybe the relay itself......or some dries up hose over some ~35 years or so....

hate it when my hose dries up.....


Thanks Mrvette:

I'll look into this tonight, appreciate the mental picture of the system up front--I suspect the vacuum lines are the culprit, and/or their connections with operating parts. Will replace the below dash switch when I get it also--seems like that should be working even with the symptoms going on right now but who knows. By the end of this project I'll have replaced every single piece of this car.
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Old Apr 16, 2015 | 06:43 PM
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Default This might help.

How to test the headlight vacuum system:
http://www.corvette-101.com/vacuum.htm
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Old Apr 16, 2015 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Peterbuilt
How to test the headlight vacuum system:
http://www.corvette-101.com/vacuum.htm
Peterbuilt--thanks, this looks great, might as well do it right, methodical, rather than my usual hit and miss and then can't figure out what went wrong.
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Old Apr 16, 2015 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by whtltg
Peterbuilt--thanks, this looks great, might as well do it right, methodical, rather than my usual hit and miss and then can't figure out what went wrong.
You said you have low vacuum, the default position ( fail safe) is lights up.

Double check your check valve. Any vacuum leak or low vacuum will cause the headlights to go up.

If the engine vacuum is too low, they make an electric conversion.
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Old Apr 17, 2015 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by BLUE1972
You said you have low vacuum, the default position ( fail safe) is lights up.

Double check your check valve. Any vacuum leak or low vacuum will cause the headlights to go up.

If the engine vacuum is too low, they make an electric conversion.
Bllue72--thanks. Would prefer a blue 72 to my white 76. But they're all fun. I'll be spending my weekend in the carport, with the vacuum tester, driving myself crazy.
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Old Apr 18, 2015 | 07:31 PM
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Thanks,
It's a 22660 mile car I've had for 15 years. (72)

I'm rebuilding a 71, green that was painted red. The car is/ was a mess. I spent a lot of time on the systems. It was learn by reading / doing thing. I was a research/design engineer which helped....
I should have done a frame off on the 71 it's that bad. The frame is spotless.. go figure. Everything else was BUBBAED

I helped my friend with his 70, he has a roller cam and nuts-so engine parts. Huge carb... No vacuum. After checking all the lines, switches and valves.. it was apparent the issue was low vacuum. Hooked up a vacuum pump - 1/4 inch hose from my 1980 truck, the system worked fine.
He upgraded to electric, works great. I'm not fond on the look, as I like stock - he loves it

Any year is great, enjoy the car that is what is most important.... make it yours..

Last edited by BLUE1972; Apr 18, 2015 at 07:33 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by BLUE1972
Thanks,
It's a 22660 mile car I've had for 15 years. (72)

I'm rebuilding a 71, green that was painted red. The car is/ was a mess. I spent a lot of time on the systems. It was learn by reading / doing thing. I was a research/design engineer which helped....
I should have done a frame off on the 71 it's that bad. The frame is spotless.. go figure. Everything else was BUBBAED

I helped my friend with his 70, he has a roller cam and nuts-so engine parts. Huge carb... No vacuum. After checking all the lines, switches and valves.. it was apparent the issue was low vacuum. Hooked up a vacuum pump - 1/4 inch hose from my 1980 truck, the system worked fine.
He upgraded to electric, works great. I'm not fond on the look, as I like stock - he loves it


Any year is great, enjoy the car that is what is most important.... make it yours..
Blue72--thanks. My car needed a separate electric vacuum pump, so I got one some time ago, which was connected to the line going into the interior for the controls, etc. This weekend, I noticed that the pump was not going on and off, like it used to. So that probably explains [at least sort of] why my headlights are now permanently in the up position. Neither of the interior controls [headlight switch or under-dash switch] have any effect except electric--the lights go on and off. So first thing, I'll get the vacuum pump fixed or replaced, then go from there to locate leaks.

Really appreciate this forum--lots of help.
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