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I just put the all bronze pilot in a couple of days ago and I would say with a roller bearing like the one you have shown, that the bevel end (not the flat end), should be installed out to receive the 4sp input shaft.
That would be consistent with how the bronze one is installed and gives you a little easier install getting the 4 sp to fully mate up.
I think this is likely a "sealed for life" bearing, so that would not drive the decision for me.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by 20mercury; Apr 19, 2015 at 03:07 PM.
I would not use a roller/needle bearing. They fail way to frequently. My first (and only) needle bearing lasted about 3k miles. A bronze bearing will last 100 years, no moving parts.
Do a forum/google search and you'll find numerous needle bearing failures.
I agree with both 20mercury and Revi - beveled end towards tranny, and I also prefer the solid bronze (it is what I put in my 79 C3).
Many do like the needle bearing over the solid bronze bushing, just my preference.
I had a needle bearing fail on a 924 Porsche I had years ago - it ruined the shaft connecting the engine/clutch to the rear mounted transaxle - expensive repair....
I would not use a roller/needle bearing. They fail way to frequently. My first (and only) needle bearing lasted about 3k miles. A bronze bearing will last 100 years, no moving parts.
Do a forum/google search and you'll find numerous needle bearing failures.
Yah you get both sides. Tremec Recommended for the T56 to use a roller. ??? so Hard to say which will be best. Time will tell.
I will see how easy the transmission slides in. I can always change my mind.
My experience with the needle bearing was fine. Use high temp bearing grease. After you slide the input shaft in the tranny may stop about 1/4" short of fully seated. Have some one push the clutch pedal and you can push the tranny right in.
My experience with the needle bearing was fine. Use high temp bearing grease. After you slide the input shaft in the tranny may stop about 1/4" short of fully seated. Have some one push the clutch pedal and you can push the tranny right in.
Do you have a brand name high temp bearing grease you used.
I did a test fit today, I dont have the clutch pedal installed yet , but
My understanding of the bushing is that it should be a non metallic bushing. I don't think that the bushing you show is. For the amount of work it takes and where you are right now I would not use the bearing bushing. Auto Gear sells the correct non metallic bushing and it has 2 beveled edges for an east install.
r
My understanding of the bushing is that it should be a non metallic bushing. I don't think that the bushing you show is. For the amount of work it takes and where you are right now I would not use the bearing bushing. Auto Gear sells the correct non metallic bushing and it has 2 beveled edges for an east install.
r
Good luck!!!!
My last pilot bearing install was in a 67 283 so i may be out of date here, i used the brass one, no roller bearing or fancy stuff here, just the basic stuff, lubed the crap out of it and input shaft, just because i didn't want to do it again..
My last pilot bearing install was in a 67 283 so i may be out of date here, i used the brass one, no roller bearing or fancy stuff here, just the basic stuff, lubed the crap out of it and input shaft, just because i didn't want to do it again..
Got another 75,000 out of the car
I am not sure if they are made of brass but you don't lubricate the bushing. The particular non metallic bushing is already impregnated with lubrication. Place it in the freezer over night and bam it goes right in.
r
Just installed a new motor in my 76, and went solid brass, have read of a few horror stories on roller bearings. Old tec seems to work good for years I can't see any real advantage going roller bearing. I hate removing and installing my trans unless its a clutch job.
Pilot Bearing Which way to install ?
