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Valve adjustment. How tight?

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Old May 9, 2015 | 07:50 AM
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Default Valve adjustment. How tight?

I've read all sorts of articles on hydraulic lifter valve adjustments on SBC engines. Also watched several YouTube videos. It seems like nobody agrees on how tight to go on valves after zero lash. I have a 69 L-46 and have some loose rocker arms. Some people say one full turn after zero lash, others say a 1/2 turn. One article said 1/4 turn, another 3/4 turn. Which is it? Thanks for any help.

Mark
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Old May 9, 2015 | 07:54 AM
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IIRC, the factory setting is 1 full turn after "zero lash". However, for decades, "hot rodders" have been setting them between 1/2-3/4 of a turn, so they don't "pump up" as readily at higher RPMs.
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Old May 9, 2015 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
IIRC, the factory setting is 1 full turn after "zero lash". However, for decades, "hot rodders" have been setting them between 1/2-3/4 of a turn, so they don't "pump up" as readily at higher RPMs.

Thanks! I'll going with 1 full turn. No racing for me. Just trying to shut up the noisy valves.
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Old May 9, 2015 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by MMJ
Thanks! I'll going with 1 full turn. No racing for me. Just trying to shut up the noisy valves.
Are you using "poly-lock" nuts, or the standard "crimped thread" nuts? If the latter, and they've been "adjusted" a few times, they won't lock on to the studs any longer, and you'll be adjusting them again.
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Old May 9, 2015 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
Are you using "poly-lock" nuts, or the standard "crimped thread" nuts? If the latter, and they've been "adjusted" a few times, they won't lock on to the studs any longer, and you'll be adjusting them again.
I just have the standard ones. Thanks, I'll change the nuts while I'm at it.
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Old May 10, 2015 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
IIRC, the factory setting is 1 full turn after "zero lash". However, for decades, "hot rodders" have been setting them between 1/2-3/4 of a turn, so they don't "pump up" as readily at higher RPMs.


That's a fact
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Old May 10, 2015 | 10:59 PM
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I do them a 1/4 turn until they are all turned then another 1/4 and then another 1/4 to total 3/4. Then when it's running I back them off until I just barely hear them and tighten them 1/2 them go back over to 3/4 after the engine reaches running temp. I know, more work than is normally done, but that is the way I do them.
Most don't readjust while running. After you get used to it it's is easy and relatively fast. Rocker stoppers keep the oil from splashing all over the fender. I think lisle makes them. Probably from Jegs or Summit also.
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Old May 11, 2015 | 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Indiancreek
I do them a 1/4 turn until they are all turned then another 1/4 and then another 1/4 to total 3/4. Then when it's running I back them off until I just barely hear them and tighten them 1/2 them go back over to 3/4 after the engine reaches running temp. I know, more work than is normally done, but that is the way I do them.
Most don't readjust while running. After you get used to it it's is easy and relatively fast. Rocker stoppers keep the oil from splashing all over the fender. I think lisle makes them. Probably from Jegs or Summit also.
Nothing wrong with that, at all. Personally, I prefer to set them with the engine running, and up to temp. Only thing to be careful of, is as I previously mentioned, you don't want to loosen/tighten the adjusting nuts too much, or they'll lose their ability to grip the studs.
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