1980 differential questions
Thread Starter
Gasoline Addict
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,052
Likes: 47
From: Twin Cities, MN
1980 differential questions
The side yoke seals on my 1980 4 speed are leaking badly so I decided to pull the diff and have them replaced. Prior to removal, the diff did have a whine when off the throttle; it seemed to be quite pronounced to me. Since the diff will be out, I am wondering if it will need to be rebuilt. It could have been low on gear oil as well, as I just recently bought the car, and who knows how log the seals were leaking. I also need to replace various bushings since the back end is in pieces. What is a good place to purchase them from?
Could someone help me identify the differential? There are some nice parts on the car - the u-joint is a Spicer, and the front diff mount is new. The diff has been painted in the past, and could have been rebuilt.
Here are pics of all the different numbers that I was able to see on it. Not sure if the diff is original to the car. Any input will be greatly appreciated.
Could someone help me identify the differential? There are some nice parts on the car - the u-joint is a Spicer, and the front diff mount is new. The diff has been painted in the past, and could have been rebuilt.
Here are pics of all the different numbers that I was able to see on it. Not sure if the diff is original to the car. Any input will be greatly appreciated.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 551
From: Seattle Washington
Use the search feature on this sight and there is a wealth of info to be had. 1980 was the first year of the Aluminum Dana 44. The date code indicates that the rear is probably original. The vast majority of 1980 cars were automatics and they used smaller 1/2 shaft u-joints. Spicer 1330 vrs the 1350's the Clutch cars used. An easy way to tell the difference is looking at the Bolts that hold the straps to the u-joints. The Auto Cars used 1/4" bolts and the Clutch Cars used 5/16". Only the 1980 had 3.08 gear, the 81 and 82 used 2.87 and 2.6? gears. Aftermarket Gears have a tendency to make more gear Noise than original. Since You have it out I would take a look inside. The Gears have a Tooth count number on them divide the number of teeth on each gear to get the ratio. They should also have a brand name on them.
Thread Starter
Gasoline Addict
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,052
Likes: 47
From: Twin Cities, MN
Use the search feature on this sight and there is a wealth of info to be had. 1980 was the first year of the Aluminum Dana 44. The date code indicates that the rear is probably original. The vast majority of 1980 cars were automatics and they used smaller 1/2 shaft u-joints. Spicer 1330 vrs the 1350's the Clutch cars used. An easy way to tell the difference is looking at the Bolts that hold the straps to the u-joints. The Auto Cars used 1/4" bolts and the Clutch Cars used 5/16". Only the 1980 had 3.08 gear, the 81 and 82 used 2.87 and 2.6? gears. Aftermarket Gears have a tendency to make more gear Noise than original. Since You have it out I would take a look inside. The Gears have a Tooth count number on them divide the number of teeth on each gear to get the ratio. They should also have a brand name on them.
I will pop it open to see what is hiding inside.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,542
Likes: 43
From: Plano TX
The 80 is a dana 44. I have an 80 and have had mine out a number of times. The vendors on here should be able to supply quality bushings in rubber or poly. I put up with a bit more noise to run poly and they were easier to install without a press.
To replace the seals you'll have to pull the side yokes. Have to pull the center pin then push the yokes in to release snap ring from yoke. Do not let the side yokes rotate in different directions with center pin out or spider gears and shims will fall out.
The ends of the yokes may have flared over. I used a small chisel to open up the splines and a slide hammer to pull the yokes.
Not a big job really.
To replace the seals you'll have to pull the side yokes. Have to pull the center pin then push the yokes in to release snap ring from yoke. Do not let the side yokes rotate in different directions with center pin out or spider gears and shims will fall out.
The ends of the yokes may have flared over. I used a small chisel to open up the splines and a slide hammer to pull the yokes.
Not a big job really.
Thread Starter
Gasoline Addict
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,052
Likes: 47
From: Twin Cities, MN
The 80 is a dana 44. I have an 80 and have had mine out a number of times. The vendors on here should be able to supply quality bushings in rubber or poly. I put up with a bit more noise to run poly and they were easier to install without a press.
To replace the seals you'll have to pull the side yokes. Have to pull the center pin then push the yokes in to release snap ring from yoke. Do not let the side yokes rotate in different directions with center pin out or spider gears and shims will fall out.
The ends of the yokes may have flared over. I used a small chisel to open up the splines and a slide hammer to pull the yokes.
Not a big job really.
To replace the seals you'll have to pull the side yokes. Have to pull the center pin then push the yokes in to release snap ring from yoke. Do not let the side yokes rotate in different directions with center pin out or spider gears and shims will fall out.
The ends of the yokes may have flared over. I used a small chisel to open up the splines and a slide hammer to pull the yokes.
Not a big job really.
