Front bushings
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 425
Likes: 3
From: Jefferson City Missouri
Front bushings
I'm sure this has been asked before about the front bushings. Poly or rubber. I see the poly is a bit more solid and requires Loctite on the end bolts.
I've been looking at Vette Brakes and Products. Has anyone used their poly? Are their rubber made by MOOG?
I've been looking at Vette Brakes and Products. Has anyone used their poly? Are their rubber made by MOOG?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 992
Likes: 56
From: Baldwinsville, NY
Not wanting to start a war about poly vs rubber, but Moog is the way to go. My discount ones went 10K and failed.
460 springs, Borgeson steering, Blistien shocks, spreader bar, now the handling limit is the tires.
460 springs, Borgeson steering, Blistien shocks, spreader bar, now the handling limit is the tires.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 11,608
Likes: 780
From: Eustis ( Area 51 Bat Cave ) Fl
If rubber didn't start to crack like in a few months I would not have anything against it and others have great luck with it but I went with the VB's poly stuff and love it....but poly or good rubber both have pros and cons.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Here we go... (divisive topic)
If you wish to reduce CA bushing compliance versus rubber in a less than racing application, poly will do that. But, be aware that typical poly must be properly lubed upon installation and periodically thereafter. Squeaking poly is binding poly, and binding stiction is NOT your suspension's friend. Also, poly CA bushings w/o serrated sleeves require monitoring and periodic re-tightening. FWIW, I do not happen to favor poly for linkage points such as camber struts or TA bushings which don't simply move about a fixed axis.
TSW
If you wish to reduce CA bushing compliance versus rubber in a less than racing application, poly will do that. But, be aware that typical poly must be properly lubed upon installation and periodically thereafter. Squeaking poly is binding poly, and binding stiction is NOT your suspension's friend. Also, poly CA bushings w/o serrated sleeves require monitoring and periodic re-tightening. FWIW, I do not happen to favor poly for linkage points such as camber struts or TA bushings which don't simply move about a fixed axis.
TSW
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 11,608
Likes: 780
From: Eustis ( Area 51 Bat Cave ) Fl
Here we go... (divisive topic)
If you wish to reduce CA bushing compliance versus rubber in a less than racing application, poly will do that. But, be aware that typical poly must be properly lubed upon installation and periodically thereafter. Squeaking poly is binding poly, and binding stiction is NOT your suspension's friend. Also, poly CA bushings w/o serrated sleeves require monitoring and periodic re-tightening. FWIW, I do not happen to favor poly for linkage points such as camber struts or TA bushings which don't simply move about a fixed axis.
TSW
If you wish to reduce CA bushing compliance versus rubber in a less than racing application, poly will do that. But, be aware that typical poly must be properly lubed upon installation and periodically thereafter. Squeaking poly is binding poly, and binding stiction is NOT your suspension's friend. Also, poly CA bushings w/o serrated sleeves require monitoring and periodic re-tightening. FWIW, I do not happen to favor poly for linkage points such as camber struts or TA bushings which don't simply move about a fixed axis.
TSW
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Yes, at points that move in "3D" I would recommend heim-jointed camber struts (and w/ lock plates in lieu of eccentric adjusters), as well as sphericals or Johnny Joints for the TAs, over rubber or poly. That said, I'd suggest those who don't wish to go that far should just stick with fresh rubber at those particular points rather than to consider simple (read, "2D") poly bushings.
