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Bad, bad, news from the mechanic today. The rattle I discribed in other posts came back, FINALY in the presence of a professional. After one listen, he knew something was seriously wrong. Pulled the plugs, one electrode was seriously smashed. Pulled the heads, damage to 2 cylinders, looks like the reason it came and went was that it started in one cylinder, and moved its way throught the intake to another. Probably didnt hear the noise as it was in the intake working its way elsewhere. One cylinder got taken out right away as there was NO carbon on the new valves. The damage to the other is not as bad. I am in the process of deciding if I will try to rebuild, or buy a new shortblock and put all my new (less than 10 miles) top parts on it. The mechanic says that he is not sure if the gouge in the cylinder wall will be taken care of by boring it out. Its pretty bad.
All guesses point to some slag coming loose off of the new heads, possibly under one of the screw in studs. :mad At least I didnt leave a socket in there.
I am amazed it ran and pulled as well as it did on 7 cylinders, did not even notice it running rough at idle. Compared to the stock setup, it was running like a champ, or so I thought.
Thoughts and comments welcomed on short block prices, or to attempt to rebuild the existing. What if I try and it cant be done and I waste more $$.
Thought I would be out for a spin right now :nonod: but in the long run I think I will be better off with the bottom done as well.
Ive herd of stroker short blocks for around 1500-2000. Low compression, lots of torq to move the 3000+ lbs. It's more money, but Ive heard they work well. Other wise do a 355 and have fun....A 2500 stall would help too.
When you get back together you will be amazed, since you've been running on 7 cylinders or 6 1/2.
Good luck, sorry it blew!! :chevy
That sux.
I think that if you tear down the block and bring it to a machine shop for
refurb - that they could bore that cylinder first and know from the get-go if
it can be salvaged. The only good thing here is that it tears down pretty
quickly, especially if you have air tools to help you along. Since you won't be
using those pistons any longer, the only precaution I can see during the
tear down would be to mark the rod caps for proper re-installation. :yesnod:
It'll probably take longer to pull the engine than to take it all apart.
Watch the paint.
I don't know what your budget is like, but you could do what I did. I got the service replacement engine (R34) for early 90's Caprice's. It's got the rotating assembly from a mid 90's LT-1 (lightweight pistons, rods, crank) and ability to run a hydraulic roller cam.
I got it for about $1700, and put a nice cam and heads in. There's one problem with it - going to a 1 piece flywheel/flexplate. But, everything else bolts up fine.
It's already assembled. You could throw in any roller cam and the heads you have and be off for not a lot of $$.
Then, again, I hear a lot of good things about 383's too.
Even if the one cylinder is gouged, it can be sleeved. Most feel that the sleeves are as good, if not better than the "original" metal in the block itself. Just a thought. Chuck
The mechanic found a short block CHEAP...and they dont require a core. I KNOW I KNOW, you guys are all going to say watch for this and be carefull of x,y and z. And I apperciate all the advice and warnings, but it cant be any worse than my 30 year old bottom end I had in before. AND, now I have my orig. block to work on out of the car. I can have it repaired, (even if it means sleeves) at some point in the future and then build it up like a mad man. AND, this time I wont be out of a ride in the mean time. I guess there is a bright side. Although it means more time and money, now I have a project that wont cancel my summer driving plans! :D