Weatherstripping Advice...
I made a total mess with the adhesive. Its fast to tack dry, and made it messy. Now I have a bunch of cleanup to do afterward, and some places I know its not going to clean up well.
In hind site, should have used the back 3m adhesive.
I made a total mess with the adhesive. Its fast to tack dry, and made it messy. Now I have a bunch of cleanup to do afterward, and some places I know its not going to clean up well.
In hind site, should have used the back 3m adhesive.
Can you guys tell me if this fitment looks about right?
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How is the fit when the door glass is up... a quick way to tell is to spray water on the rubber and shut the door. Everywhere the water is meshed to the glass wills show up on the glass as a shinny spot.
Willcox
1968-1982-corvette-door-glass-adjustment-instructions
http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/w...structions.pdf
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; May 28, 2015 at 11:13 PM.
The seals are Metro SuperSoft, which I have heard mixed reports on, but I think they claim made in america, right?
So its the TOP of the pillar that looks wrong to you?
How is the fit when the door glass is up... a quick way to tell is to spray water on the rubber and shut the door. Everywhere the water is meshed to the glass wills show up on the glass as a shinny spot.
Willcox
So, I am replacing the WX Strip on 78 glass t-tops and used an exacto knife blade to but through the rather thick adhesive bead that secured the WX Strip to the frame assembly/glass top.
I also removed the headliner from my 78 silver anniversary and after a study of the AIM, see the different assemblies used for each t-top style. The frame for base t-tops fit much more snugly than the frame for the glass t-top and therefore the adhesive bead is thicker...thus requiring the Exacto surgery operation. The 3M cleaner failed to perform as advertised thus a more aggressive method required.
Have you replaced WX Strip on glass and any other techniques I need to be thinking about before securing the strip to the frame/glass?
If i press on the window as i close the door it goes under the metal tab , how do i do fix this ?
So, I am replacing the WX Strip on 78 glass t-tops and used an exacto knife blade to but through the rather thick adhesive bead that secured the WX Strip to the frame assembly/glass top.
I also removed the headliner from my 78 silver anniversary and after a study of the AIM, see the different assemblies used for each t-top style. The frame for base t-tops fit much more snugly than the frame for the glass t-top and therefore the adhesive bead is thicker...thus requiring the Exacto surgery operation. The 3M cleaner failed to perform as advertised thus a more aggressive method required.
Have you replaced WX Strip on glass and any other techniques I need to be thinking about before securing the strip to the frame/glass?
On the 78 sa car the driver side was leaking slightly.
The issue was the area around the top was folded over when originally installed. It seems to have been there a very long time and since this is such a low mileage car, I think it was there from the start. Since the car has seen very little water in it's life span I'd say it's a safe bet.
Tips.. If you don't want the plastic pins to break off when you pull them out use a tach puller. It seems get under the old pin easily and if you use it gently, it will not break the pin off (instant rattle).
When you install the new weatherstrip you must make sure the weatherstrip is not folded over in the center area and this can be difficult to accomplish. Glass tops are pretty easy, painted tops you have to contend with the liner. So, it's best to remove the tongue covers and loosen up the shim nuts, install the roof panel and then tighten the nuts back down until the weatherstrip is seated.
The weatherstrip over your head should be test adjusted to the door glass and the pillar before any glue is put in place. Once you know the proper place for the channel and weatherstripping, use painters tape to mark the alignment, then start gluing.
I know some of you like to use the yellow stuff 3m stuff and if you do tape tape and more tape before you glue.... it'll make clean up easy. I stated in another thread that I use Weldwood (same stuff we use on convertible tops and upholstery) glue on the cars that need to pass any scrutiny, it is the closest to the factory glue I've ever found and no.. its still not correct... Way closer than the 3m yellow though... You can even get a brush and splash it on like the factory did..
Original Glue on the 65:


Ernie
I won't use that brand in the shop, the pillars are extruded and not molded... They really need to be molding to obtain a proper fit.
The brand we use daily in our shop is CRC and it's the only brand we use. I've had mixed results with the imported latex rubbers so I still pass on them until they can get a few issues solved.
When I saw your initial post about the glue I though you said you were messy, but from the looks you are more than qualified to be a professional installer...
You did a way better job than when the car was new. (see the above factory picture and the one below).. I can't get to my original car right now, it buried in the back of the building but when I do the next time, I'm going to take some pics of the door weatherstrips and how they are glued. From that I remember (and Tom might know), the 1978-1982 cars had a way cleaner installation than the 63-67 and 68-77 cars. 

https://www.facebook.com/WillcoxCorvette/videos/vb.284766912924/10153878306147925/?type=3&permPage=1
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; May 30, 2015 at 09:37 PM.












