1977 model. As stated in my topic. Both windows stopped. Could somebody explain the sequence for trouble shooting. Going to check fuse first tomorrow. If the fuse is good what next? I appreciate the help.

 

There is a power window relay under the center console so you might start there (after checking all of your fuses).

 

Is there more than one fuse?

 

First make sure that the 'pink/black' wire has not come out of the 'ING' cavity in the middle of the fuse box.

Next go under the hood and make sure that you have 12 volts into and out of the circuit breaker.

Still not working? Now check for 12 volts at the relay.

Scroll down for the power window schematic:

http://www.vetteprojects.com/bmv/mis...tte%201977.pdf

 

Hey peterbuilt thanks for that advice. My son got home and we found the fuse and it was blown. It only had a 10amp fuse. This seems small. What size is it supposed to have?
Are the gauges and pw on the same fuse? It looks like the one that's blown says gauges on it. I jumped across it and the PW worked though.

 

I'd say you're a lucky man, jumping across a blown fuse is an extremely poor choice of troubleshooting unless you're using the "jump it and look for smoke" method.

 

Your owner's manual lists fuses and where they go.

 

10A does seem pretty low....most are 25 or 30-unless the only fused protection IS the IGN source to the factory relay. If your existing window motors are drawing too much current, might think about replacing them. Now would be a good time to upgrade to a newer type relay system and add auto/express down while you're at it!

 

75-77 Power window schematic.


and below is a schematic for a different year, but the tech help in this picture is pretty much the same for your car. Pay attention to (A) Under No deflection too... always check to make sure the power window harness is plugged into the fuse panel and making good contact before you tear anything apart.

Willcox

 

Thanks so much. Replaced the fuse. Hopefully it won't blow again. I know they don't blow for no reason. Thanks again.

 

Just a comment about fuse sizes that I didn't know until a few years ago. The fuse size is not intended to protect the load, if the load has a short circuit. In other words, the guy who assigns fuse sizes ..when it comes to the fuse size...could care less if your fan, radio, wiper motor, PW motor has a short circuit and burns out the fan, radio, wiper motor...etc. The fuse size is designed to protect the harness!!! If you develop a short circuit in a load, you absolutely don't want the wire in the harness to burn out...if it does, it'll most certainly burn off insulation of adjacent wires also. So if you develop a short in a load, the load can just merrily burn itself out..what you don't want is the harness to destruct. Replacing a wire harness under the dash, inside the engine compartment can be very intrusive. Replacing the burnt out load is generally much, much easier than replacing an entire harness. The fuse size is intended to protect the harness wires from being burnt out.

Also, checking out continuity, circuit problems, etc in a car using the car battery is not prudent. The battery can pump out 600 amperes. If you have a potential circuit problem, good luck if you blow a fuse. If the circuit problem is not protected by a fuse, the battery can produce massive electrical damage. After making extensive changes to my 68's electrical system, I first energized up the electrical bus with 12 volts supplied by a pack of small dry cell batteries..every thing was off so there shouldn't have been any power drain except for the clock...no problems. Next I used a 12 DC power supply good for 10 amperes/15 amps surge. With the 10 amp power supply I could operate most of the electrical circuits in the car...no problems...then I connected the bus to the battery...no problems.

My apologies if I'm too preachy!!!