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Half Shaft U-Joints

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Old Jun 7, 2015 | 10:08 PM
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Default Half Shaft U-Joints

On my 78 I'm installing a 383. The engine dynoed at 496.4 hp with 468 ft lb tq @ 6200 RPM.

The trans is a 700R4 with a 2200 stall.

Rear gear is 3,70

My currnt drive shaft u-joints are spicer no zerk mounted to the yokes with the blocks and bolts.

My half shafts have spicer u-joints no zerk mounted at the spindle with the standard flang with the 4 bolts. At the third member they mount to the yokes with the strap type mounts with nuts.

My question is can I strenghten the connection at the third member by replacing the straps with the steel billet blocks and grade 8 bolts/nuts?

Or if I want the extra strength of the blocks. Do I need to replace my yokes with the threaded holes to mount with blocks?

If the strap type will hold my torque I may leave it as is.

Last edited by Aggitated Monkey; Jun 9, 2015 at 10:49 AM.
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 05:20 AM
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As the famous L-88's and ZL-1's had straps on the rear of the main drive shaft I would think its more than enough for your 383".
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by toobroketoretire
As the famous L-88's and ZL-1's had straps on the rear of the main drive shaft I would think its more than enough for your 383".

I thought the early big blocks had the billet steel block type. What HP and TQ did they have?

Last edited by Aggitated Monkey; Jun 9, 2015 at 10:50 AM.
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 09:37 AM
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No other input?
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 12:28 PM
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I replaced the straps on mine with the billet blocks. I never broke a strap so I can't say this is necessary. It does seem like cheap/easy insurance. The L88 cars leaving the factory didn't have drag radials on them.
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by BKbroiler
I replaced the straps on mine with the billet blocks. I never broke a strap so I can't say this is necessary. It does seem like cheap/easy insurance. The L88 cars leaving the factory didn't have drag radials on them.
Where you able to bolt the blocks to the original yokes with bolts and nuts or did you have to change the yokes for the threaded typ?
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 10:20 AM
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305 viewers and only 2 willing to help?
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 10:23 AM
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I would be glad to tell you what I know. The problem is I don't know anything... Thought perhaps I might learn something...
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by tyancey00
I would be glad to tell you what I know. The problem is I don't know anything... Thought perhaps I might learn something...
Lol! Thanks...ME too.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Aggitated Monkey
Where you able to bolt the blocks to the original yokes with bolts and nuts or did you have to change the yokes for the threaded typ?
I used the original yokes with nuts and bolts.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by BKbroiler
I used the original yokes with nuts and bolts.
Thanks BKbroiler! I thought they may work and just didnt have the experiance. I will get a set of blocks and grade 8 bolts and convert mine just the same. I do think its good insurance. I know the early BB's didnt have these; however I dont reacall them pulling wheel stands like I see your car has.

Thanks Again for the comfirmation.
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