74 starting issues
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 420
Likes: 3
From: deposit new york
74 starting issues
hi everyone, I am having a issue with the 74 I am restoring, its a factory 4 sp, and for some reason every few days when I go to start it, it wont turn over, its like when I push the clutch its not letting it start, but I was working on the fixing some gauges, so had the center cluster pulled and had a meter on the clock wire because its always hot, and when it does this, the voltage on the hot wire, drops from 12, to 5v, and everything else wont work either when it doesn't engage the starter, sometimes it will start again when I play around in the fuse box, but haven't found exactly what's going on, tonight it done it and for the life of me I cant get it to go now. can I bypass the clutch engaged and start it?? if so what do I need to do? or has anyone else come across something like this? thanks 
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 68
Likes: 3
hi everyone, I am having a issue with the 74 I am restoring, its a factory 4 sp, and for some reason every few days when I go to start it, it wont turn over, its like when I push the clutch its not letting it start, but I was working on the fixing some gauges, so had the center cluster pulled and had a meter on the clock wire because its always hot, and when it does this, the voltage on the hot wire, drops from 12, to 5v, and everything else wont work either when it doesn't engage the starter, sometimes it will start again when I play around in the fuse box, but haven't found exactly what's going on, tonight it done it and for the life of me I cant get it to go now. can I bypass the clutch engaged and start it?? if so what do I need to do? or has anyone else come across something like this? thanks
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 68
Likes: 3
I was hoping it was a noise.
What I would check before buying anything:
1.) Is the distributor getting power? Surprisingly just cleaning/bending the connections to fit snug is all it needs
2.) Are 12 volts going to the starter? Be very careful with this. Will need two people and not the smartest idea someone under a car attempting to turn on.
3.) Since you said fuse box giggling makes it work. Remove fuses, clean the fuse box connections and then replace fuses and make sure to put fuse wax on them.
Hope this helps...
What I would check before buying anything:
1.) Is the distributor getting power? Surprisingly just cleaning/bending the connections to fit snug is all it needs
2.) Are 12 volts going to the starter? Be very careful with this. Will need two people and not the smartest idea someone under a car attempting to turn on.
3.) Since you said fuse box giggling makes it work. Remove fuses, clean the fuse box connections and then replace fuses and make sure to put fuse wax on them.
Hope this helps...
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,022
Likes: 33
From: Lokeren, Belgium
Is your car still original as in does it still have the seat belt starter interlock system? If so, when it doesn't start have you pressed the button on the starter interlock override relay located under the hood, RH side of the firewall?
Nick
Nick
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 420
Likes: 3
From: deposit new york
It has most of it, but the actual belts have been out for 20yrs, but it was never started in that time until I got it, this has been a ongoing issue since I got her running last month. At first 95% of the time she would start but it is getting worse every day. I tried pushing the button, but didn't have the key to on, and it didn't turn over., since I got her going it has a brand new battery charged and load tested, new distruter, mech tack drive, hei, new coil, cap and router, starts great when it turns over. I am really thinking it has to be electrical, not mechanic issue. But at this point I will try anything, if it is the interlock I have to figure out how to jump it than decide if I want to replace it or remove it, and figure out how to jump the clutch safety switch or figure out what it could be to find out what I need to make it reliable
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,022
Likes: 33
From: Lokeren, Belgium
Ok, that's probably not it then (ps, read here to bypass the relay http://home.comcast.net/~vettfixr/page17.htm sry IPad crashes when trying to link it.
Did you run a new wire to the HEI which has constant 12V during starting and in on position? If you use the original fused (yellow) wire the voltage will drop during starting and HEI's don't really like that.
Nick
Did you run a new wire to the HEI which has constant 12V during starting and in on position? If you use the original fused (yellow) wire the voltage will drop during starting and HEI's don't really like that.
Nick
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,410
Likes: 1,547
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
This is another way to bypass the relay:
http://home.comcast.net/~vettfixr/page16.htm
Just remove the relay and install a jumper wire in the correct holes.
http://home.comcast.net/~vettfixr/page16.htm
Just remove the relay and install a jumper wire in the correct holes.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 420
Likes: 3
From: deposit new york
Ok, that's probably not it then (ps, read here to bypass the relay http://home.comcast.net/~vettfixr/page17.htm sry IPad crashes when trying to link it.
Did you run a new wire to the HEI which has constant 12V during starting and in on position? If you use the original fused (yellow) wire the voltage will drop during starting and HEI's don't really like that.
Nick
Did you run a new wire to the HEI which has constant 12V during starting and in on position? If you use the original fused (yellow) wire the voltage will drop during starting and HEI's don't really like that.
Nick
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,410
Likes: 1,547
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
The yellow wire was only used with the points distributor, it runs from the starter solenoid to the + terminal of the original coil and only had power with the key in 'start'. Your HEI distributor does not need the yellow so just tape it off.
Is the NSS good and the linkage connected?
Is the NSS good and the linkage connected?
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,412
Likes: 50
From: Laguna Niguel California
Sometimes this condition is the result of the starter solenoid not completing the contact circuit. If yours is an old starter or a cheap rebuild that could be a problem. Either rebuild the solenoid with quality contacts or by a quality starter assembly. This has happened to me a couple of times until I found this out. Now if I have a problem, I spend the bucks for a NEW Delco-Remy starter.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,091
Likes: 40
Could it be a bad spot on the starter commutator ? Every so often the rotor is positioned in this bad spot. Just sounds like something to do with starter and solenoid . I think the originals GM are better than anything new for stock motors . Pirkle guy in FL does good work. His father rebuilt mine 25 years ago , no issues.
Last edited by LS4 PILOT; Jun 18, 2015 at 06:52 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 420
Likes: 3
From: deposit new york
Not sure yet, I will be home tomorrow and going to start trouble shooting, first I am going to jump the firewall relay. If it was a bad spot on the starter and it hasn't turned than it shouldn't start when I try it, and when it does this it does eventually start. But eliminate the easy stuff first than on to the fun stuff lol
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 420
Likes: 3
From: deposit new york
jumped the firewall relay, no change, replaced all the fuses, no change, got power at the starter, and can jump the solenoid and she will turn over and catch but not stay going, no power at the alt, or distribution block. so I am thinking the solenoid is not sending power out the other side and back to the fuse box, and anywhere else at a constant. does anyone else think this could be the case??