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I'm looking at pic on the internet to see what color scheme under my hood would look good with the work I have completed on my car. I found this.
.So dont think Im nuts... Here goes.
CA s Legal aluminum smog heads skinny gaskets, with 185 cc runners. Aluminum hi-rise with EGR
Passes smog. Standard carb, cam etc.
Since I have new radiator electric fan, Major clearance. All I do is change cam...easy bump.
Now. I have nice heads. good intake, Swap cam every 2 years...pass smog. re-install cam. THoughts..
Pain in the *** ain't it.
California smog check. That's EXACTLY why I bought this '73: exempt from smog checks. I feel for ya. I have an '87 CRX and an '80 Toyota 4X4 that has to go thru it every 2 years myself.
Heads, intake and carb will need CARB numbers if not stock. Then all the connections required for the car it's getting installed in. Then a cam that will still pass the sniffer.
A few years ago I had a totally stock 1984 Mustang. 85 was the last year to come with a Holley. When I had to get it smogged the techs always had to find a timing light LOL.
Now I have a 1988 Mazda RX7. Still confused the crap out of them.
You probably won't get an EGR to fit with those valve covers. Changing the cam every 2 years sounds like a major PITA. Maybe change for an earlier model, <75. You could also try some moderate cams and see if tuning would pass.
I'm looking at pic on the internet to see what color scheme under my hood would look good with the work I have completed on my car. I found this.
.So dont think Im nuts... Here goes.
CA s Legal aluminum smog heads skinny gaskets, with 185 cc runners. Aluminum hi-rise with EGR
Passes smog. Standard carb, cam etc.
Since I have new radiator electric fan, Major clearance. All I do is change cam...easy bump.
Now. I have nice heads. good intake, Swap cam every 2 years...pass smog. re-install cam. THoughts..
its a numbers game if the timing is right and the cats works as long as your nox, co2, and co are within tolerable levels and not a gross polluter you'll do fine. Here by downtown Los Angeles there is a smog school that you can take car for like 20 bucks the students will practice smog it and you'll get a read out of what your levels are and they also have smog mechanics class where they'll try and solve the problems of why it ain't passing. Just something to think about. Once you get it running.
How much cam do u want Ray? Cant find u a cam w/o knowing how big a cam u want. Comp has a carb legal 268/268 110lsa with 0.454"/0.454" lift and Crane sells a carb legal 272/272 110lsa with 0.454"/0.454" lift (just a bit larger than the comp) and a 272/284 112lsa with 0.454"/0.480" lift. And then the GM cams are 222/222 114lsa with 0.450"/0.460" lift or the 212/222 112.5lsa with 0.435"/0.460" lift. GM CT 350 runs that later cam with only 9.1 compression makes 350hp/390ft-lbs. Yea all those cams are not much to race with but definitely street-able. I would try lower ratio rocker arm to pass smog and then not much effort to swap in higher ratio rockers every 2 years.
BTW even with an electric fan still will need to pull the radiator for the cam swap unless u tilt it way forward - but the fan and shroud would more than likely have to come out anyways. I wouldnt want to cam swap every 2 years - electric fan or not.
The problem with CA smog testing is it measures NOx also. As the curves for CO and HC are coming down with leaner mixtures (and higher compression) the NOx curve starts to head upward. Most conservative mixture for CA smog is the stoichiometic 14.7 A/F or just a bit richer. Too rich and your CO and HC start to rise, too lean and the NOx increases.
What u got inside that purdy motor? Compression? Stroke? Cubic inches? Heads?
can't you just buy a cheap smog legal motor, drop it in, pass inspection, pull it out and put your other motor back in? maybe somebody will rent you a motor for passing smog checks...seems like a good business opportunity out there, buy a smog legal motor and rent it to others....now maybe i'm nuts...
How much cam do u want Ray? Cant find u a cam w/o knowing how big a cam u want. Comp has a carb legal 268/268 110lsa with 0.454"/0.454" lift and Crane sells a carb legal 272/272 110lsa with 0.454"/0.454" lift (just a bit larger than the comp) and a 272/284 112lsa with 0.454"/0.480" lift. And then the GM cams are 222/222 114lsa with 0.450"/0.460" lift or the 212/222 112.5lsa with 0.435"/0.460" lift. GM CT 350 runs that later cam with only 9.1 compression makes 350hp/390ft-lbs. Yea all those cams are not much to race with but definitely street-able. I would try lower ratio rocker arm to pass smog and then not much effort to swap in higher ratio rockers every 2 years.
BTW even with an electric fan still will need to pull the radiator for the cam swap unless u tilt it way forward - but the fan and shroud would more than likely have to come out anyways. I wouldnt want to cam swap every 2 years - electric fan or not.
The problem with CA smog testing is it measures NOx also. As the curves for CO and HC are coming down with leaner mixtures (and higher compression) the NOx curve starts to head upward. Most conservative mixture for CA smog is the stoichiometic 14.7 A/F or just a bit richer. Too rich and your CO and HC start to rise, too lean and the NOx increases.
What u got inside that purdy motor? Compression? Stroke? Cubic inches? Heads?
and all the cams cardo0 mentioned sound fine for smog. They're all flat-tappet though. Harder to find a hydraulic roller that has been E.O.'d, but if the duration/LSA characteristics are similar, you'll pass and eke out more power, not to mention have a more reliable valvetrain.
Before my current engine I ran the Crane Energizer H272-110 mentioned above and did just fine on smog.
Given ignatz's advice below, I'd recommend finding an E.O.'d cam.
Last edited by Shark Racer; 06-17-2015 at 12:49 PM.
Pain in the *** ain't it.
California smog check. That's EXACTLY why I bought this '73: exempt from smog checks. I feel for ya. I have an '87 CRX and an '80 Toyota 4X4 that has to go thru it every 2 years myself.
Dont get discouraged, theres a bill up for passing that if went in effect will give anyone with an 85 or older car/truck the option of paying $200 to dmv...to avoid smog.
Yes, paying cleans the air
If it does go into effect grab whatever yr car/truck fits those years the prices will go through the roof! SO many cars out there with no smog equiptment that are worthless that could be legal if this goes through.
Dont get discouraged, theres a bill up for passing that if went in effect will give anyone with an 85 or older car/truck the option of paying $200 to dmv...to avoid smog.
Yes, paying cleans the air
If it does go into effect grab whatever yr car/truck fits those years the prices will go through the roof! SO many cars out there with no smog equiptment that are worthless that could be legal if this goes through.
BUT
SECTION 1. Section 44011.7 is added to the
Health and Safety Code , to read:
44011.7. (a) The owner of a motor vehicle that is required to
obtain a certificate of compliance pursuant to Section 44011 may
elect to pay a smog abatement fee of two hundred dollars ($200) if
the motor vehicle meets all of the following criteria:
(1) Is 30 or more model-years old.
(2) Was manufactured during or after the 1976 model-year. (3) Fails a smog test required pursuant to this chapter. (4) Fails a subsequent smog test after necessary repairs were
made.
(b) Payment of the smog abatement fee established pursuant to this
section shall be made to the Department of Motor Vehicles at the
time of the registration of the motor vehicle.
(c) Fees collected pursuant to this section shall be deposited in
the Air Quality Improvement Fund created by Section 44274.5.
SECTION 1. Section 44011.7 is added to the
Health and Safety Code , to read:
44011.7. (a) The owner of a motor vehicle that is required to
obtain a certificate of compliance pursuant to Section 44011 may
elect to pay a smog abatement fee of two hundred dollars ($200) if
the motor vehicle meets all of the following criteria:
(1) Is 30 or more model-years old.
(2) Was manufactured during or after the 1976 model-year. (3) Fails a smog test required pursuant to this chapter. (4) Fails a subsequent smog test after necessary repairs were
made.
(b) Payment of the smog abatement fee established pursuant to this
section shall be made to the Department of Motor Vehicles at the
time of the registration of the motor vehicle.
(c) Fees collected pursuant to this section shall be deposited in
the Air Quality Improvement Fund created by Section 44274.5.
I'm assuming this would still be required every two years also? It could get pretty expensive..... 2 smog checks at approx $50 each, some unknown cost for 'necessary repairs' (???), then $200 to the state, plus the normal registration fee.... Might be a good alternative for vehicles that fail smog, but have the proper smog equipment - but I'm guessing that 'necessary repairs' will mean that the smog equipment has to at least be installed....
Keep your fingers crossed that this morphs into a one-time exemption, and 'necessary repairs' is left up to the smog shop.
Im gonna check into the smog classes. I finished 30 years with my employer and am starting my retirement(with layoff at 30). IF im patient and get a litlle side job....all corvette money. I maybe able to do the LS 3 legal swap...in a year
06-16-2015, 03:20 AM
CA Smog headache possible fix.
and all the cams cardo0 mentioned sound fine for smog. They're all flat-tappet though. Harder to find a hydraulic roller that has been E.O.'d, but if the duration/LSA characteristics are similar, you'll pass and eke out more power, not to mention have a more reliable valvetrain.
